STYLISH DINER: After creating buzz from the front row at Michael Kors on Wednesday morning, “The Devil Wears Prada” protagonist Andy Sachs — we mean Anne Hathaway — continued her one-day fashion week outing at Empire Diner. Neiman Marcus took over the nostalgic 10th Avenue diner for its “Live Your Luxury” fashion week party, hosted by celebrity stylists Erin Walsh and Jason Rembert.
“We just love each other more than we can say,” Hathaway declared as she enthusiastically greeted Walsh, her longtime stylist, outside of the diner. The actress invited nearby guests to experience the tactile sensation of her red-fringed Michael Kors dress, which had made its debut on the runway that morning.
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“I’ve never gotten to wear fresh off the runway before. I’m really excited,” said Hathaway. “I loved the show. I thought it was so cozy and slinky, and that’s how I feel right now.” Despite the week’s warm temperature, Hathaway was ready to embrace the fall season ahead. “I’m so excited for the moment, how great it’s going to be to be really, really cold. And usually that happens around one o’clock in the morning on Nov. 23. You’ll be standing on the street trying to hail a cab, and the temperature drops 17 degrees instantly, and you go, oh, here we go.”
The colder months also signal the debut of the Neiman Marcus Fall Book and campaign.
“I’m from Texas; I grew up pouring over the pages of the book since I was a child looking at everything, dreaming,” said designer Bach Mai, whose clothing is featured in the current issue. On Thursday morning, Mai would be announced as a nominee for the CFDA’s emerging designer of the year award. “When it came out, to have all my friends — because in Texas everyone gets the book — and my family sending me pictures of my page in the book is the most surreal and humbling experience. It’s truly a dream,” he added. “I’m so proud to be an American designer, but also to be a designer from Texas. I know that Neiman’s woman, and the support Neiman’s has given me has just been incredible.”
Other designers in the crowd included Prabal Gurung, Sally LaPointe, Wes Gordon and Jason Wu.
Walsh touted the retailer’s enthusiasm for bringing on new designers and creating opportunities within the fashion community. “They’re so easy to work with,” she added. “If you give them an idea they’re like, yes — let’s collaborate.”
“I’m gonna be honest with you,” said Rembert, who earlier that day showed his latest runway collection for his brand Aliétte. “Neiman Marcus Group as a whole was the first company to invest in me in brick-and-mortar and invest in the brand,” he said. “They didn’t say, hey, we want to invest in you but we want buy your entry-level price points — they invested in me and purchased my luxury price points. And I think as a designer, that gives you hope that there is, one, a market for me as a designer, and two, there’s also room to grow with the company.”
Rembert has been busy this week — in addition to dressing celebrities, including Lizzo for the Emmy Awards, and debuting his latest collection, the stylist is readying Mary J. Blige for her tour kicking off Saturday. Asked what audiences can expect to see sartorially from the singer, he offered, “Shine. Boots. A lot of custom. We’re having fun with stones and beads and high-shine fabrics, and fabrics that are able to have a lot more flexibility and movement,” he added. “Mary J. Blige is synonymous with her style; ‘ghetto fabulous’ is something that she has her signature on, and I’m there to bring that to life, and to help her cultivate it. She does such a good job at being her and elevating herself that honestly, I’m just a vessel, and I feel great to be part of the collaborative process with her.” — KRISTEN TAUER
As usual, Ford’s front row was packed with VIP guests. Madonna was in attendance, sporting new red hair, and while she’s been a fixture at NYFW the past few days, she made an extra special appearance for the Tom Ford show, bringing two of her children, Lourdes Leon and Rocco Ritchie, with her.
Elsewhere in the front row was Chris Rock, who posed for photos with Katie Holmes; Erykah Badu was also in attendance, as were Ciara, Karlie Kloss, Lori Harvey, Shai Gilgeous-Alexander, Taylor Hill, Carmelo Anthony, Madison Bailey, Evan Mock, Nicole Richie, Dove Cameron, Dixie D’Amelio, Russell Westbrook, Pat Cleveland and Anna Cleveland, Chloe Fineman, Lila Moss and more. It was a big turnout for a week that’s been stocked full of celebs, starting with the Janet Jackson sighting at Christian Siriano a week ago (was that only last week??) and revving up to Fendi’s big night of supermodels (Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta), Marni’s Brooklyn crew of Madonna, Kendall Jenner and Devin Booker, Tommy’s rainy day diehards (Kate Moss again, Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker, Shawn Mendes and more) and Michael Kors’ stacked crowd (Serena Williams and Anne Hathaway, to name a few). — LEIGH NORDSTROM
PAUL’S NEW DEAL: Paul Smith and Marchon have entered into a strategic licensing partnership.
The deal tasks Marchon with designing, manufacturing and distributing Paul Smith eyewear on a global scale. The first collection will be released in January.
This is the first deal to be unveiled under the tutelage of Marchon’s new president Thomas Burkhardt.
“Marchon is very proud to partner with Paul Smith, an iconic brand with timeless styling,” Burkhardt said in a statement. “We look forward to contributing to the brand’s future growth around the world, while strengthening our offering within the luxury eyewear segment. The new collections will be offering new eyewear styles that will uniquely capture the essence and exceptional quality of the Paul Smith brand.”
Paul Smith managing director Ashley Long added: “We are delighted to be embarking on a new global eyewear partnership with Marchon. Harnessing their expertise in manufacturing and distribution and bringing our own unique approach to design and creativity, we have every confidence it will be a prosperous collaboration.”
The collection will be available in select optical stores worldwide, as well as Paul Smith’s retail locations and e-commerce and in the U.S. on Eyeconic.com, which is Marchon’s own e-commerce destination. — MISTY WHITE SIDELL
COURIC AND DAUGHTER: Katie Couric and her daughter, Carrie Monahan, had a mother-daughter outing to the Markarian fashion show at the Ukrainian Institute of America Wednesday evening. Both looked very chic in long Markarian dresses — Monahan in an apple-red and pink-wave-print corset dress, and Couric in an orange-and-white gingham shantung asymmetric flounce dress.
“It was my first fashion show so it was very exciting,” said Monahan, a documentary film producer. “I love Markarian and thought the clothes were beautiful, especially the big black and pink gowns. I loved that there were older models and models who weren’t skinny. Everyone looked amazing,” she said.
Couric said that Carrie wore a Markarian dress when she was the maid of honor in her sister Ellie’s wedding last year. “Ellie changed into a Markarian dress for the reception. So they were both big fans,” said Couric.
She said that Carrie was so excited when they were both invited to the show. “They were nice enough to dress us and seat us in the front row…Carrie came over and we got our hair done and put makeup on — it was like we were going to the prom, and I was the annoying chaperone, I guess!
“We haven’t gone to any other shows but it was really fun to take it all in…the setting was so pretty and seemed appropriate for the flowy, ultra-feminine clothes. I know Nicky Hilton a bit and it was fun sitting next to her, she’s so nice,” said Couric, author of her memoir, “Going There,” who also publishes a daily newsletter, “Wake Up Call.” She said she also loved the diversity of models who were used, especially silver-haired model Rachel Waller, who’s in her 60s.
Monahan has been busy these days with her podcast, “All Each Other Has,” with her older sister, Ellie Monahan, where they analyze topics like fame by proxy, sleep-away camp in the American imagination, their adolescence growing up in New York City, and cyberbullies. Currently she’s in the midst of a series about the messed-up world of New York City private schools inspired by Caitlin Flanagan’s piece in the Atlantic last year, she said.
Others in Markarian’s front row included Veronica Webb, Jasmine Sanders, Ivy Getty, Anna Baryshnikov, and Candace Bushnell. — LISA LOCKWOOD
HUDSON COLLABORATES: Hudson Jeans has teamed up with London-born, Los Angeles-based stylist and Flaunt Magazine contributing editor Zoe Costello. The fall collection launches Friday.
Costello’s client list includes Migos, Tyga, Jazmine Sullivan, Fivio Foreign and Paloma Mami, and she has worked with a range of talent including Jessica Chastain, Jacob Elordi and Halsey, among others.
“Zoe is an influential stylist to some of the visible music talent in the industry. She has been a longtime supporter of Hudson Jeans, placing the product on her clients and has built an authentic relationship with the brand. With her editorial eye and background at Flaunt Magazine, she has offered an innovative approach to her capsule collection; offering new silhouettes that are ahead of the trends for both the men’s and women’s markets,” said Suzy Biszantz, Centric Brands group president, men and women.
“As a stylist, I am presented with opportunities to help my clients truly express themselves through fashion. I have always wanted to express my own vision through a brand collaboration and Hudson Jeans has been an incredible partner,” said Costello. “I am confident that consumers will really identify with the styles we have designed and that they will be able to wear them for seasons to come.”
Ben Taverniti, Hudson’s creative director, said he is friendly with Costello and has worked with her for a long time. “This collaboration is completely organic given our history and it was the perfect opportunity to layer her in with Hudson in a meaningful and impactful way. I am excited to partner with one of the best stylists in the world to continue to build the brand and our consumer fan base.”
The collaboration combines the edginess Costello is known for with Hudson’s L.A. attitude.
The women’s capsule includes an oversize denim trench, a high-rise wide-legged jean in a light wash and a high-rise cargo in three washes. In addition, the assortment will include a denim corset and one-shoulder bodysuits. Prices for the women’s collection range from $145 to $695. The men’s line includes a work pant and a cargo kick flare, both offered in three washes, as well as a camouflage utility denim trucker jacket and denim work jumpsuit. The men’s collection ranges from $275 to $695.
The capsule will be available at revolve.com, saksfifthavenue.com and Neiman Marcus, as well as Hudsonjeans.com. — LISA LOCKWOOD
TIME PASSAGES: Resting on artfully rolled tissue, the dresses — some torn, some partially decomposed, some unfinished, many of them soiled — brought to mind patients on hospital beds, or Sir John Everett’s painting “Ophelia.”
The exhibition at Kering’s Paris headquarters showcases 39 original Cristóbal Balenciaga garments dating from 1939 to 1968, some recently acquired, awaiting restoration.
Mounted by Balenciaga in line with creative director Demna’s vision, the showcase was conceived for European Heritage Days on Saturday and Sunday, when historic buildings and monuments across the continent open their doors to the public.
On hand will be two textile conservators: one girding floral embroideries with the finest silk thread; another sewing wadding over hangers to help delicate garments maintain their shape and ease fabric stress.
In a link to the present, a giant screen broadcasts Balenciaga’s fall 2022 couture show by Demna, many of the models sporting futuristic face shields. Still, visitors can draw a direct line of inspiration from the green gown worn by Bella Hadid on the runway and a gently faded 1959 Amphora style stood in a glass case.
Demna often gives new Balenciaga designs a worn aspect, which reminds the wearer of the effect of time on garments, and themselves.
The French house’s archive and heritage department has amassed more than 900 original pieces by Cristóbal Balenciaga, hailed as a master of couture prized for his architectural shapes.
Among the vintage items on display are an austere pink gown whose bottom third is riddled with stains and rips, and jackets bearing dense mother-of-pearl floral embroideries and tears at the shoulder.
Some are shown partially disassembled to highlight their intricate constructions. Conservators employ a range of pH-neutral materials to slow the aging process and boost faded fabrics, according to Balenciaga.
Let’s hope the fragility of the subject matter does not prevent the “Des robes, au-delà du temps” exhibition, or “Dresses, Beyond Time” in English, from traveling to other venues.
Visitors to Kering headquarters this weekend can also take in an exhibition of works from the Pinault Collection by Belgian artist Edith Dekyndt, whose work employs many fabrics that are deliberately decayed or decaying. One of her white “paintings” is impregnated with wine tartrates that leach moisture from the air and then “bleeds” down the wall. — MILES SOCHA
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