I’m not really sure why everyone else wants to relocate to Southern California (something about the weather?), but I’m in it for the birria. On my most recent visit, I started at the new Venice location of Teddy’s Red Tacos (pictured), where I quickly learned the distinction between the Tijuana-style birria blowing up in L.A.—typically spicy slow-cooked beef—and the Jalisco-style birria I knew from my Chicago days, which was usually goat. As good as owner Teddy Vasquez’s orange-jus-stained tacos, tostadas, and quesadillas are, it was the Styrofoam cup of deeply flavorful sinus-clearing beef consommé that got me. All I need is a little Eastside bungalow and I could spend every day hitting up the list of birria spots I’ve been making since that visit: Burritos La Palma in El Monte, Tacos y Birria La Unica in Boyle Heights, Charlie’s Tacos (weekends only) in Highland Park, etc. Now if only I could remember how to drive.... —J.K.