16 of the most spectacular Indian Ocean holidays
Sri Lanka
Romance ****
Activities *****
Family *****
Service and luxury ***
Value ****
Sri Lanka dazzles. It’s a land of iridescent birds, piercing-green paddy fields, lakes festooned with pink lotus flowers, misty hills clad in manicured tea bushes. Wild elephants roam its forests, leopards stalk its jungles (Yala National Park is said to have the world’s highest concentration of these elegant if elusive cats). The interior is strewn with ancient Buddhist shrines and excavated remnants of historic kingdoms.
This is a great place for families; the Sri Lankans are renowned for their child-friendliness, and there’s a huge amount to do here. What’s more, in September last year the World Health Organisation declared the country malaria-free.
A little land mass about the size of Ireland, Sri Lanka is fringed with sandy shores. But it would be an oversight to regard the island solely as a beach destination. There’s so much to explore in the gem-like interior – and besides, the coastal stretches, although attractive, are not quite on a par with the serene looks and levels of seaside luxury that the Maldives and Seychelles offer.
Above all, this is a fabulous island to tour. Visit the Cultural Triangle, a central area liberally dotted with astonishing religious and historic landmarks, several of which are World Heritage Sites; take in vibrant wildlife in one of the 100 or so parks and reserves; enjoy a spectacular train ride through tea country; wander the narrow lanes of colonial Dutch Galle. Then end an island tour with a beach stay; the east coast around Trincomalee offers palm-fringed white sands, but as yet not a wide choice of accommodation. The south coast has some stunning hotels and presents much natural drama, with big seas and great surfing possibilities.
Deciding when to visit can be tricky. The country has two monsoon seasons that affect different parts of the island. Generally, the hilly interior and the south and west coasts are best between October and April, the east coast from March to August.
Of course, in the past Sri Lanka was much troubled; the civil war ended nearly eight years ago and since then tourism has grown rapidly – from just under 600,000 international visitors in 2009 to 1.5 million in 2016. The island’s infrastructure has vastly improved; hotels are becoming ever more sophisticated. The Uga Escapes group started in 2010 and offers a string of well-priced boutique hotels; Tri, an eye-poppingly chic retreat on Lake Koggala emphasising wellness breaks, opened in December 2015. Meanwhile, the Resplendent Ceylon group has been setting ever higher standards of luxury: its Ceylon Tea Trails, a group of gorgeously refurbished tea planters’ bungalows, was established 10 years ago; Cape Weligama, a clifftop south coast resort exuding glamour, was launched in 2014; and this autumn the company will be opening a spectacularly sited tented camp in the Yala National Park.
23 reasons to visit Sri Lanka
What’s so special?
The sheer beauty and variety of the landscapes; the dramatic ancient sites; the cultural richness; the remarkable wildlife.
Way to go
Fly direct from London Heathrow to Colombo with Sri Lankan (about 12 hours). Other carriers offer services requiring a connecting stop, including Qatar Airways and Gulf Air.
Where to stay
Stylish package
Original Travel (020 3582 4990; originaltravel.co.uk) offers a seven-night tour with bells and whistles. A three-night stay at Ceylon Tea Trails followed by four nights at Cape Weligama costs from £4,150 per person including internal travel, flights, all meals and drinks at Tea Trails and breakfast at Cape Weligama.
Natural wonders Ampersand Travel (020 7819 9770; ampersandtravel.com) has a 16-night itinerary exploring Sri Lanka’s natural highlights. It takes in white-water rafting on the Kelani river, game drives in the Yala National Park and a south coast beach stay. From £3,500 per person including flights, transfers and b&b in boutique hotels.
Boutique bliss Steppes Travel (01285 601050; steppestravel.co.uk) offers a seven-day tour from £2,340 per person, including flights, transfers, driver-guide for four days, sightseeing in Kandy and Galle and b&b accommodation in boutique hotels – Uga Residence in Colombo, Kandy House in Kandy and Fort Bazaar in Galle.
Wellness week Healing Holidays (020 7135 2436; healingholidays.co.uk) offers a six-night stay at Tri hotel (see page 5) on Lake Koggala from £1,499 per person. This includes flights from Heathrow, private transfers, half-board accommodation, yoga classes and Ayurvedic treatments.
Good value
An eight-night trip around Sri Lanka costs from £1,079 per person with Hayes & Jarvis (01293 762456; hayesandjarvis.co.uk). It takes in the sites of the Cultural Triangle – Sigiriya fortress, Polonnaruwa and Dambulla caves – as well as the Pinnawala elephant sanctuary. Includes flights from Gatwick and b&b accommodation.
Seychelles
Romance *****
Activities *****
Family ****
Service and luxury ****
Value ***
The Garden of Eden was located on Praslin island in the Seychelles – so claimed Britain’s General Charles George Gordon (later hero of Khartoum) in the 1880s. Evangelical fanatic though he was, he had a compelling point. The Seychelles is a superbly lush archipelago. Its 115 islands extend across an area a little larger than Peru, yet they have a collective land mass about the size of Vienna (around 450 sq km). The biggest of these present a spectacular array of natural life; you’ll see vibrant birds and stupendous plants on Mahé, the largest island; Praslin’s Vallée de Mai reserve is a World Heritage Site and the only place on the planet where you’ll find the legendary coco de mer palm, famous for its erotic-looking seeds; Veuve Reserve on La Digue island is home to the rare Seychelles paradise flycatcher.
Take your pick of powder-sand, turtle-frequented beaches. Anse Source d’Argent on La Digue is one of the most photographed beaches in the world; it lives up to the hype, but there are plenty of others. Anse Lazio on Praslin is an undeveloped haven; Beau Vallon at the north of Mahé offers beautiful views across white sands and crystal-clear waters. Set almost on the Equator, the Seychelles is an all-year destination – although it can be windy between November and March. The main islands are large enough for rain, generally, to be avoided – if it’s wet in the south, head north and vice versa. And you won’t feel stranded: moving between the larger islands is fairly straightforward. You can enjoy local charm too: in contrast to the sleekness of most Indian Ocean resorts, there’s a slightly ramshackle appeal to real life in the Seychelles; catch the local vibe at the cafes and restaurants of the quaint little capital of Victoria on Mahé, then make for a quieter base; an island-hopping two- (or three-) centre holiday can be easily arranged at mid-price cost – relatively speaking for the Seychelles.
Oddly enough, for all the honeymoon attraction of the islands, this is a good destination for older children. Teenagers (and adults, too) will find plenty that appeals in the range of natural adventures: hikes on Praslin and Mahé, riding on La Digue, snorkelling, diving, fishing. The islands generally hold less attraction for a younger crew although some five-star resorts offering well-equipped kids’ clubs include Constance Ephelia and Kempinski Seychelles, both on Mahé.
Inspiration: Our favourite beaches
For couples wanting to sink romantically into a well-appointed retreat, there is a generous range from mid(ish) to super-high-end resorts. Most of the islands are open to all, with beaches accessible to the public. But for exclusive luxury, head to a private island. North Island and Frégate Island have become havens of epicurean eco-glamour; Sainte Anne lies in a marine reserve 10 minutes from Mahé; Six Senses recently opened a lavish spa retreat on Félicité Island; Four Seasons is currently constructing a second Seychelles resort at Desroches Island. Meantime, Denis and Bird islands are laid-back sanctuaries with underplayed rustic style.
What’s so special?
Abundant natural life, including rare plants and animals; huge scope for exploration, especially island hopping; utter seclusion on a private island.
Way to go
There are no direct flights to Mahé from Britain; Emirates, Qatar Airways and Etihad offer services via the Gulf with a journey time of 13 hours or more.
Where to stay
Exclusive retreat
Beauty and sybaritic wonders combine at Six Senses Zil Pasyon on the private island of Félicité. Destinology (01204 474400; destinology.co.uk) offers seven nights here on a b&b basis from £4,179 per person, including flights and transfers.
Top end
ITC Luxury Travel (01244 355527, itcluxurytravel.co.uk) is currently offering a seven-night break at Four Seasons Mahé, set close to one of the island’s loveliest beaches. The £3,559 cost per person includes flights from Heathrow and accommodation on a b&b basis in a villa on stilts complete with plunge pool.
Romantic island hopping
Stay four nights at romantic Le Domaine de l’Orangeraie on La Digue and three nights at Constance Lemuria (above), with golf course, spa, stunning pools and more, on Praslin’s west coast, through Abercrombie & Kent (01242 547708, abercrombiekent.co.uk). The week’s trip costs from £2,095 per person, including flights, transfers and b&b accommodation.
Nature and beaches
For a spectacular beach and wildlife trip, stay full board at a rustic lodge on tiny Bird Island for seven nights, then head to Praslin for four days with accommodation in Les Villas D’or, a small self-catering resort. Audley Travel (01993 838250; audleytravel.com) offers the 11-night trip from £2,967 per person, including flights.
Good value
Two weeks at Avani Seychelles Barbarons Resort on Mahé costs from £2,351 per person through Travel Republic (020 8974 7200; travelrepublic.co.uk), including flights from Heathrow and half-board accommodation.
The most romantic hotels in the Maldives
Maldives
Romance *****
Activities ***
Family ***
Service and luxury *****
Value ***
Arriving in the Maldives is for most people a surreal experience: the sea truly is a vibrant shade of turquoise, the sands really are sugar-white – and no, you haven’t weirdly wandered into a Photoshopped brochure. Strung out like pearls across some 90,000 sq km of the Indian Ocean (an area about the size of Portugal), the islands of the Maldives are a group of 1,190 specks of land. Just 200 are inhabited by the local population, and some 140 more are resorts – each tiny island a sort of lily pad of luxury for the most part occupied by a single hotel. This year, the Maldives celebrates its 45th year of tourism. The first hotel, Kurumba Village, opened in October 1972, styled as a Robinson Crusoe-esque hideaway. How things have changed; the Maldives is now a byword for innovative glamour, with a bewildering number of resorts competing to outdo each other in ultra-chic comfort. Happily, competition also means that although the Maldives is an expensive destination in terms of rack rates, the resorts often vie over seasonal offers.
The Maldives initially developed as a honeymoon destination. Then former guests returned with their families, so resorts started creating kids’ clubs – at Bandos, at Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, most recently at Kandima. These cater mainly for young children – teenagers could go a bit stir-crazy here. Some islands, though, are serenely adults-only, including newly opened Hurawalhi.
Hugely stylish overwater villas are now a classic Maldives creation, yet the first such accommodation was introduced only in the Nineties; the first underwater restaurant (at Conrad Maldives Rangali) was built in 2004; there’s now an underwater spa (at Huvafen Fushi). Some resorts have open-air cinemas, while others have resident marine biologists to guide guests to the best coral gardens – Gili Lankanfushi has both. The most recent opening is Soneva Jani, a beautifully conceived eco-friendly retreat whose overwater villas (beach accommodation is still being completed) have retractable roofs.
Which of the 140 or so resorts you choose requires careful consideration. The Maldives’ strung-out geography means island-hopping is not very viable unless you’re moving between resorts run by the same group. So most visitors stay put on one island – happily marooned and cocooned in luxury.
If you’re likely to feel restive, go to a resort with space and a good choice of activities: Soneva Fushi is relatively large (guests are provided with bikes to get around, which is fun) and even has its own observatory; at Shangri-La’s Villingili Resort you can take 17km bike rides, making a circuit of islands linked by bridges.
Factors to mull over include whether to go for an all-inclusive package – in the Maldives an upmarket offering including wine (except, generally, champagne) and non-motorised watersports; you have no option but to eat at the hotel in any event. Location has an impact on price: resorts close to the main island of Malé are reached by speedboat, while those further north and south you get to by seaplane – thrilling if expensive. Take the seasonal weather patterns into account, too: the colours aren’t always bright in June and July when storms can blow across the archipelago – however, the rains usually don’t last long. The best time to visit for sunshine and clear skies is between October and March. All of which is, of course, reflected in the costing.
What’s so special?
Cutting-edge luxury; an amazing choice of resorts; astonishing colours above and below water.
Way to go
Between October and March, British Airways (ba.com) flies from Gatwick to Malé three times a week (10 hours). Other carriers offer services that require a stop, including Emirates, Sri Lankan, and Oman Air.
Where to stay
Honeymoon proposal Turquoise Holidays (01494 678400; turquoiseholidays.co.uk) has a special honeymoon offer for seven nights at Constance Moofushi, a chic resort south of Malé. The price, from £2,875 per person, includes an 80 per cent discount for the bride and flights from Heathrow, transfers and all-inclusive accommodation.
Last word in luxury
A week at Soneva Jani costs from £5,997 per person through Red Savannah (01242 787800; redsavannah.com). The price includes b&b accommodation as well as flights and seaplane transfers.
Serene style Elegant Resorts (01244 897516; elegantresorts.co.uk) offers seven nights at Gili Lankanfushi from £3,815 per person on a half-board basis. This includes flights, transfers and lounge passes.
Affordable action
Western & Oriental (0203588 6130; westernoriental.com) offers seven nights at Angsana Velavaru, £1,979 per person, including flights, transfers and accommodation on a b&b basis.
Great-value getaway
Seven nights’ all-inclusive at Ellaidhoo Maldives, set on a lagoon, costs from £1,359 per person through Virgin Holidays (0344 557 3859; virginholidays.co.uk). Includes flights, transfers.
Best of both worlds
Combine the colour and culture of Sri Lanka with the beach life of the Maldives. You can hop between these destinations in 90 minutes on Sri Lankan airlines. Experience Travel Group (020 7924 7133; experiencetravelgroup.com) offers a 13-night trip from £3,760 per person on which you explore Sri Lanka for nine days, then fly over to the Maldives and unwind for four days at Makunudu, a luxury resort. The price includes all flights and transfers, b&b accommodation, experiences and some meals.
The ten best Indian Ocean hotels
The Indian Ocean is famed for the dramatic locations and sumptuous beauty of its hotels. Here is our selection of 10 of the very finest, including the best for overwater villas, white-sand beaches, open-air cinemas and watersports.
Maldives
1. One & Only Reethi Rah
More than a decade after opening its doors, this luxury resort continues to captivate with an ever-expanding roll call of awards for its world-class spa, superlative service and recently refreshed villas. This octopus-shaped island is one of the largest resorts in the archipelago, ensuring maximum privacy and a cocooning sense of exclusivity. Add to that a choice of 12 beaches, boutique shopping and a spoiling array of restaurants, and it’s not hard to see why readers of the Telegraph’s Ultratravel magazine voted it their favourite hotel in the Indian Ocean in 2016.
Doubles from £1,290
2. Cheval Blanc Randheli
Of all the luxurious lairs in the turquoise-fringed, white-sanded islands of the Maldives, Cheval Blanc Randheli is the most elegant. Designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, the 45 villas each feature a sleek swimming pool, hammock, loungers and a huge daybed. A dedicated major-domo (butler) looks after you and plans your day, from unpacking your suitcase to booking diving expeditions or fine-tuning a bath filled with flowers. For a fine dining experience, head to 1947 Restaurant, with a tasting menu that offers an abundance of variety.
Cheval Blanc Randheli
Noonu, Maldives
8Telegraph expert rating
Of all the luxurious lairs in the turquoise-fringed, white sanded islands of the Maldives, Cheval Blanc Randheli is the most elegant. Designed by Jean-Michel Gathy, the 45 villas, some over water, others lining the beach, brim with bespoke, artistic details under thatched, cathedral-like, roofs. Read expert review From £2,523per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
3. St Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort
This far-flung island resort offers a daringly designed environment in a deliciously secluded location. Sea-bob around its pale blue and purple reefs, unravel with an acupressure massage at the overwater spa, and pop champagne corks in a bar that looks like a whale shark. The 77 villas are split into three categories: entry-level garden villas concealed in the jungle; beach villas hugging the shore; and overwater villas, the best of which face west towards the expansive Indian Ocean. All are huge and come with their own private swimming pool. Interiors are sophisticated and soothing, decked out in classy shades of cream, cobalt and chartreuse.
The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort
Maldives
9Telegraph expert rating
This far-flung tropical island resort offers a daringly designed environment in a deliciously secluded location. Sea bob around its pale blue and purple reefs, unravel with an acupressure massage at the over-water spa, dine in sunken wine cellars, and pop champagne corks in a bar that looks like a whale shark. Read expert review From £1,608per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
4. Velaa
Home to an astonishingly good restaurant, private pools and a range of activities, including tennis, golf and watersports. Velaa’s interior designer Petr Kolar uses the phrase “polite luxury” to describe the resort’s aesthetic; rather than gold-plated bathrooms and Swarovski-studded chandeliers, the resort’s most impressive accoutrements are designed to be almost imperceptible. Paving stones that don’t absorb heat have been imported from Jordan; wood panelling was sourced in Borneo. Those subtle touches create a setting that works intuitively.
Velaa Private Island
Maldives
9Telegraph expert rating
Velaa Private Island is a Maldives hotel offering an astonishingly good restaurant, private pools, white sand beaches, and a range of activities, including tennis, golf and watersports. Read expert review From £2,238per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
Seychelles
5. Denis Private Island
The resort retains a welcoming atmosphere, with an open-sided central lobby and restaurant at the heart of the lodge. There’s a real emphasis on sustainability, and guests are constantly immersed in the natural sights and sounds of the local wildlife, especially the endemic Seychelles’ bird species. Denis has 25 beach cottages in total and all feature large indoor/outdoor bathrooms and are furnished with clean, bright fabrics and natural wood furniture. Unique for the Seychelles, Denis sources its poultry and pork from its own small farm. Fish is caught offshore and the vegetables are mainly grown on the island. They even make their own cheese.
Denis Private Island
Seychelles
9Telegraph expert rating
This is as close to living on our own desert island as most of us will get. Surrounded by nature and the shining depths of the Indian Ocean, time passes as it should, exploring barefoot and scanning the water for a passing turtle. Read expert review From £668per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
6. Frégate Private Island
The 16 villas here are conventionally luxurious inside, yet not private-island pristine outside, but that makes it all the more special. What could be more memorable than lying on grass next to one of the 2,200 Aldabra giant tortoises that roam free on the island? The 16 villas feature orange and pistachio-green soft furnishings along with ream sofas, and an outdoor dining terrace. The Rock Spa occupies a majestic position with tumbling views over the surrounding lush greenery. Treatments – a short menu of massages and wraps – use products made using island plants.
Fregate Island Private
Seychelles
9Telegraph expert rating
The 16 villas here are conventionally luxurious inside, yet not private-island pristine outside, but that makes it all the more special: what could be more memorable than lying on grass next to one of the 2,200 Aldabra giant tortoises that roam free on the island? Read expert review From £2,974per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
7. North Island
The emphasis on North is on relaxation, and the large villas are fitted out to reflect barefoot luxury and views that inspire romance. It’s all bare wood, billowing cotton and colonial chic. There are twice as many staff as guests, a resident ecologist and a full service spa. No menus are offered – the chef prepares seasonal fresh food to your taste with a plentiful supply of fish caught offshore.
North Island Seychelles
Seychelles
9Telegraph expert rating
A luxury resort with just 11 large villas on a privately run island a short helicopter ride from the main island of Mahé. Designed to make the most of the stunning natural environment North offers the ultimate in romance, superb beaches, watersports and immaculate service. Read expert review From £6,138per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
Sri Lanka
8. Kandy House
Located among paddy fields and bordering its very own tropical jungle, the only sounds one hears are from nature. It’s a palatial home that lives up to even the most jaded of expectations. From the moment guests enter the large hall from the drive, furnished in antiques and decorated in sumptuous Sri Lankan batik, they are likely to feel like visiting royalty. Everything in this two-storey building revolves around a central courtyard with smooth concrete floors and a lounging area. The broad verandas surrounding the property add to the bygone feel.
Kandy House
Kandy, Sri Lanka
9Telegraph expert rating
Kandy House, which was built in 1823, started life as the residence of Sri Lanka’s last king. Now it's a superb boutique heritage hotel that offers just nine large and elegant rooms on a six-acre property surrounded by paddy fields and jungle. Read expert review From £155per night
9. Tri
An unspoilt rural setting in the south of the island, overlooking Koggala Lake, with paddy fields and verdant jungle behind. Some of Sri Lanka’s best beaches are 15 minutes away, while the heritage town of Galle is 25 minutes. A project of passion, the swirling symmetry of Tri was masterminded by Raefer Wallis, of Shanghai’s A00 Architects, to meet the sustainable remit given. From recycled wood to menu covers woven from banana fibre, Tri is contemporary, yet rooted in its surroundings and luxurious in its natural simplicity. A cantilevered infinity pool juts out into the lake, the dividing line of the blue waters marked by a slender palm tree.
Tri
Koggala, Sri Lanka
9Telegraph expert rating
Set on a hillside overlooking Sri Lanka’s largest natural lake, Tri’s 11 suites offer real tranquility spread out amidst a garden of banyan trees and frangipani. The design, complete with a cinnamon-clad water tower and imbued with a sense of place, sits harmoniously within the surrounding nature. Read expert review From £331per night Check availability Rates provided by Mr & Mrs Smith
10. Cape Weligama
Occupying a secluded promontory on Sri Lanka’s southern tip, it would be hard to dream up a more ruggedly romantic setting. There are uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean and the beaches that flank the resort are largely deserted. Each free-standing residence is at an angle to the next, amid swaying palms and manicured grounds, making the resort feel expansive and tranquil. The resident restaurants and bars feature alcoves and terraces that encourage the sense of seclusion, and the lofty, wooden structures in which they are housed add to the tropical feel. Jewel-tone walls and latticework lanterns hint at Arabia, but there are also nods to the Asian influence of Thai architect Lek Bunnag.
Cape Weligama
Weligama, Sri Lanka
9Telegraph expert rating
In an undeniably romantic setting with uninterrupted views of the Indian Ocean, Cape Weligama offers secluded residences with subtle interiors and sizeable beds. Resident restaurants have a tropical feel added to by their lofty, wooden structure and there's a well equipped dive centre on site. Read expert review From £262per night Check availability Rates provided by Booking.com
