These 15 One-of-a-Kind Watches Won’t Appear at the OnlyWatch Auction. We Asked the Brands Why.
On October 18th, 2023 Audemars Piguet pulled out of the OnlyWatch auction run by the Monaco-based Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM). Audemars Piguet was reacting to controversy that emerged when renowned watch collector, Santa Laura, took to Instagram demanding that OnlyWatch be more transparent about its use of around $100 million it had raised for Duchenne muscular dystrophy research. Other brands began to follow Audemars Piguet’s vote of no-confidence, and the auction’s brand roster began to shrink for the 2023 edition.
On October 23, 2023, five days after Audemars Piguet pulled out, the AMA announced that it had postponed its OnlyWatch charity auction scheduled for November 5, 2023 in Geneva. The AMM also promised to conduct a thorough financial audit of OnlyWatch. In April of this year, OnlyWatch presented results from the financial audit and simultaneously announced several changes to its governance structure. With that, the auction was back on for May 10th, 2024 in Geneva with the help of Christie’s.
However, as of this writing, 15 watches estimated to raise as much as $3.4 million have not returned to the rescheduled edition of the auction.
Comparing the original print catalog from 2023 with the current list of lots on the OnlyWatch website, we were able to ascertain which watches were still withheld from the auction as of this writing. We reached out to these 15 brands via email, asking them:
1. Why have your remained withdrawn from the rescheduled OnlyWatch auction set for May 10th?
2. Was the watch produced? [Note that digital models could have been presented prior to production.]
3. If the watch does exist, what is its fate?
We are receiving a mix of declines to comment, summary answers, and more transparent explanations, all of which are below along with the original estimates from the 2023 print catalog. This is an evolving story, so we will update brand responses as we receive them (with a note on date of reception).
You can read our exclusive interview with founder Luc Pettavino here.
1. Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Platinum
The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Platinum would feature black jade stone and rose gold. The dial was a one-off in black jade with a chapter ring printed with rose gold. Featuring a Piguet 11.50 double barrel automatic movement, this watch would measure 38mm.
Original Estimate: $44,000 – $55,000
As of this writing, agents of the brand have chosen to decline to comment, noting that the topic was very sensitive and would require more time to draft a response.
2. Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force
Cased in stainless steel and measuring 41 mm, this green version of the Gravity Equal Force features an in-house caliber ASB19 auto-winding movement with a micro-roto and a Geneva Equal Force barrel.
Original Estimate: $27,500 – $38,500
As of this writing, the brand has not responded to our email inquiry.
3. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in White Ceramic
The first watch to be withdrawn from the auction, this rather stunning one-off in white ceramic features a tourbillon and a unique blue skeletonized dial.
Original Estimate: $330,000-$385,000
In response to our questions, Audemars Piguet replied:
“Only Watch offered AP to participate in this new auction, which we declined. We appreciate the swift action undertaken by the AMM to address legitimate questions concerning governance and transparency. However, since January 2024, we have formalized our donation policy and entrusted the AP Foundations with the management of the Group’s philanthropic vision. All donations must be aligned with the AP Foundation’s pillars: environment, education and social equity. As a result, AP made other arrangements regarding the watch that was planned to be auctioned.“
4. Biver “Catharsis” Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon in Titanium
Biver’s offering to the OnlyWatch auction of 2023 was this stunning timepiece with a handcrafted dial. The sea is portrayed in sapphires with the upper half of the dial in meteorite, silver obsidian, and opal.
Original Estimate: $550,000 – $770,000
Biver Watches has declined to comment.
5. Boucheron Joy de Lumière Jewelry Watch
Paved with 142 diamonds, this unique piece runs on a quartz movement from ETA and features a bracelet twisted with black spinels.
Origina Estimate: $38,500 – $49,500
Boucheron has claimed insufficient time to comment. We will update if and when we hear anything new from the brand.
6. Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
With a forged carbon case and a titanium inner movement container, this one-of-a-kind watch contains an in-house caliber CFB T3000, which is COSC certified and runs a floating tourbillon.
Original Estimate: $66,000 – $110,000
Carl F. Bucherer has declined to comment.
7. Chopard Ice Green L.U.C. 1860 in Lucent Steel
The fate of this watch remains one of personal interest to the watch-minded people in the Robb Report office, as we collectively find it especially beautiful. That aside, this L.U.C. from Chopard is made from 80 percent recycled Lucent Steel, while the Ice Green dial is made from 18-karat white gold. L.U.C. caliber 96.40-L is a self-winding mechanical movement with a 22-karat gold micro-rotor and the brand’s Twin Technology, which offers 65 hours of power reserve from twin stacked barrels.
Original Estimate: $27,500 – $38,500
Chopard has declined to comment.
8. De Bethune DW5 Seeking Perfect Ref. OW23
The most avant-garde piece in the auction catalog—except, perhaps, for MB&F’s offering—this one was forged from Damascus iron and steel from Auberson ores and runs on a complicated movement with 356 parts offering a 4-day power reserve with a self-regulating double barrel.
Original Estimate: $242,000 – $297,000
In response to our questions, De Bethune writes:
We wish Only Watch a successful auction and look forward to keeping the dialog open for the future.
9. Ferdinand Bethoud Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch“
With a case of brown patinated bronze with sandblasted dial components and a COSC-certified mechanical hand-wound movement, this watch was offered with a Manufacture visit providing “a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the timpiece…”
Original Estimate: $176,000 – $198,000
The brand has yet to respond to our request for comment.
10. Girard-Perregaux X Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
Pink-gold case, constant-force escapement, stunning finishing—this watch truly showcases what GP is capable of. At 45 mm, this would would be a huge statement on any wrist.
Original Estimate: $154,000 – $242,000
A brand representative is in contact, but has not given us a response yet.
11. Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension
A 47 mm unique piece in a rose-gold case with stained glass effect composed of topaz, sapphire, and garnets, this watch was among the most expensive offerings in the original OnlyWatch 2023 catalog.
Original Estimate: $770,000 – $825,000
The brand has yet to reply to our email inquiry.
12. L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon Unique Piece for Only Watch
In grade-5 titanium set with 24 diamonds, this hand-engraved watch features a hunter case back, and a manually-wound movement with a 90-hour power reserve. The entire dial rotates to tell the time.
Original Estimae: $165,000 – $198,000
The brands response to our questions:
L.LEROY is deeply involved in the ONLY WATCH cause and its commitment to medical research to find a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Our company first took part in the ONLY WATCH adventure during the 2015 edition with the development of the unique L.LEROY Chronomètre Observatoire timepiece. L.LEROY was delighted to take part in the 2023 edition, which marks the brand’s return to centre stage. To this purpose, we worked hard to develop the L.LEROY TOURBILLON MINUTE REPEATER, a masterpiece of watchmaking inspired by a tactile watch made in 1810 for Prince Emile Maximilien Léopold Auguste de Hesse.
After several months of waiting and uncertainty as to whether or not the auction would take place, due to the financial audit carried out by the ONLY WATCH Association, we have in the meantime made a commercial commitment for this unique timepiece with one of our ambassador retailers, CELLINI in New York. As a result, we are no longer able to offer it at the auction, which has been postponed to May.
13. Perrelet Turbine Chrono x Only Watch Ref. A4068/1
Another titanium watch that won’t make it to the May 10th auction, this one offers a 60-minute chronograph totalizer formed from a sapphire ring, and it uses caliber P-361, an auto-winder with 42-hours of power reserve. The caseback is shown in the original catalog as printed with “Unique Piece ONLY WATCH 2023.”
Original Estimate: $16,500 – $22,000
Perrelet has declined to comment.
14. Tudor Prince Chronograph One Re. 9420/801 in Solid 18-Karat Gold
Tudor has made a couple of editions of its Black Bay 58 in solid gold, but this unique piece in 18-karat yellow gold promised to be truly rare. The movement was intended to include a prototype column-wheel in-house chronograph auto-winder that could hold 70-hours of power and meet COSC certification standards.
Original Estimate: $27,500 – $ 38,500
Tudor has declined to comment.
15. Ulysse Nardin FREAK S Only Watch
The well-known Freak series of watches were part of the original avant-garde going back to the late 1990s, and today this one-of-a-kind timepiece remains one of the most colorful propositions for the model yet. The black ceramic case uses a black DLC bezel with colored titanium components adorning the rotating movement.
Original Estimate: $176,000 – $220,000
Ulysse Nardin is in contact, but has not yet provided a response to our question.
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