The Silver Palate's Green Sauce
Every week — often with your help — Food52’s Executive Editor Kristen Miglore is unearthing recipes that are nothing short of genius.
Today: A sauce in spring green that goes with everything from asparagus to salmon to hams and lambs (and the perfect place to put those leftover hard-boiled eggs).
Both have a home in spring, but eat too much of either one and you won’t be up for a dewy stroll in the park; you’ll be going back to bed.
Here is a way to give a spring sauce substance, and eat it immodestly. And it requires none of the technique or precision of egg’s other guises. If you can boil an egg, you can make this sauce.
The trick is to pare down. First, take the egg out of the equation to punch up the sauce — make it briny, make it grassy — then add it back in at the end for texture and blips of cool, clean flavor.
To that end is green sauce — the American answer to salsa verde or sauce verte — from the Silver Palate Good Times cookbook, tucked away as one of four sauces for asparagus. It needs to be broken out and celebrated, under a spotlight of balmy, new April sunshine, attended by armies of just-born green vegetables. It deserves its own chapter, or maybe its own book.
"It just seemed to shout spring to naturally combine a little bit of a classic French green sauce (gribiche with the eggs) with a little bit of an Italian (salsa verde with capers and anchovies) into a lovely little green sauce. It just tastes like that new green of spring to me," Silver Palate cofounder Julee Rosso explained. “I’m afraid we were taking a bit of poetic license long before ‘fusion’.”