How to Shuck (and Eat!) Oysters

Photo: Jim Henkens

The next time you visit The Walrus and the Carpenter, watch the shuckers. When they open a Northwest oyster, they start at the hinge end, prying the oyster open with what looks like almost zero effort. Then they cut the oyster’s muscle from its shell, turning the flesh over and revealing the oyster’s smooth, plump side.

In France, it’s usually done differently: instead of the hinge end, they shuck the oyster from the side, where the muscle attaches. Then they release the fleshy part of the muscle from the oyster’s top shell, leaving the firm part of the muscle attached to the bottom shell to prove the creature is still alive. I love that tradition because it means that after you eat the muscle, you can use the flat side of a fork to scrape the scallop-like attachment from the shell, then drink the oyster’s liquor separately. Although I hew to American convention at my restaurants (including serving oysters ice cold, per health department standards, instead of just cool, as in France), I like how visceral and drawn out the experience is in France.

Of course, I do have my favorite oysters. In the Pacific Northwest, I love Hama Hamas, Blue Pools, Emerald Acres Treasure Coves, Taylor Shellfish Totten Virginicas, and Hog Island Sweetwaters.

To open an oyster using the typical American technique, the hinge method, you’ll need well-rinsed oysters, an oyster knife, a towel, and a pair of heavy-duty gloves.

If you’ve never opened an oyster before, start with a soft, clean towel in your left hand. Hold the cupped part of the oyster in the palm of your hand on top of the towel, with the hinge (pointed) end toward your wrist. (You can put a heavy-duty glove on the hand holding the oyster, if you’re shucking a lot of oysters or feel accident-prone). Using your right hand, insert the point of the knife into the hinge of the oyster, pressing gently on the hinge until you feel it pop open. (Some people say you press the oyster onto the knife instead of the knife into the oyster; in either case, placement is more important than pressure. This process should not cause you to break a sweat.) Wipe the knife clean on the towel. With the oyster just partway open, slip the knife ’s blade into the shell. Carefully follow the right side of the top shell with the knife to cut the oyster muscle free, then remove the top shell. Wipe the knife again, then carefully cut the muscle off the bottom shell, taking care to reserve as much of the oyster’s natural liquor as possible. (If you prefer, use the knife to turn the oyster over in the bottom shell.) Remove any sneaky shell pieces that may be wandering around in the liquor, and serve immediately. (If you’re left-handed, you’ll need to start with the oyster in your right hand, turn the oyster over, and adjust these directions accordingly.)

Local Oysters with Champagne Vinegar Mignonette

Prep time: 10 minutes, plus shucking time // Total Time: 10 minutes, plus shucking time // Serves 8

Although I personally prefer eating oysters plain or with a squeeze of lemon, it’s impossible to ignore the allure of a perfect mignonette. I serve it, made with a simple mixture of shallots and good champagne vinegar, and a grinding of black pepper, in a shallow bowl before dinner, so guests can add as much as they’d like to each oyster.

Note: Store fresh oysters in the refrigerator, cupped side down, on a plate covered with a damp towel. 

1 large shallot, minced
1 cup champagne vinegar
2 dozen fresh local oysters, chilled
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
1 medium lemon, cut into wedges

In a serving bowl, stir together the shallots and vinegar. Refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 2 days.

Shuck the oysters immediately before serving (see Shucking Oysters), and serve the mignonette, dusted with pepper to taste, in a small bowl alongside the oysters, along with a bowl of the lemon wedges.

Excerpted from A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus: Menus and Stories (Sasquatch Books, 2014) by Renee Erickson with Jess Thomson. 

More oyster obsession:
The Mexican Oyster That Could Change the Whole Game
How Big Is Too Big for an Oyster?
Oyster Fraud: The Restaurant Industry’s Dirty Little Secret