Why I Think This Ancient Aegean City Is the “It” Destination for 2023
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If you’re suffering from insatiable wanderlust, but don’t want to travel to the Amalfi Coast or Santorini like everyone else on Instagram, you’ve reached the right corner of the internet. Though there’s certainly nothing wrong with these classic vacation spots, sometimes you want to explore somewhere different and immerse yourself in a totally unique culture. It can be tricky to find an amazing city that’s not swarming with other American tourists, but I think I’ve officially discovered the best under-the-radar destination for 2023: Bodrum, Turkey.
Bodrum is a vibrant beach town in Southwest Turkey formerly known as the ancient city of Halicarnassus. While you can—and should—immerse yourself in its rich and storied history (after all, it’s still home to one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World, Bodrum Castle, and more), there are also plenty of present-day wonders to experience when you arrive. From local handicraft and incredible spas to top-tier yachting and amazing food, there’s truly something for every type of traveler to enjoy. Here, my guide to an unforgettable vacation in Bodrum.
What to Do in Bodrum, Turkey
Book one of the suites or villas at Susona Bodrum, LXR Hotels & Resorts for the perfect mix of five-star amenities, unparalleled hospitality, and convenience to Bodrum city center. The luxury property is tucked behind canopied allées and opens up to panoramic views of the sparkling Aegean sea. Here, there’s no shortage of natural beauty; hot pink bougainvillea vines trail up white villa walls while wild olive, fig, and pomegranate trees grow without restraint around the property. You’ll also see superyachts and sailboats dotting the turquoise waters of Torba Bay, which stretches around most of the hotel.
Once you arrive, unwind after a long day of travel at the hotel’s Spa Soul. Make an appointment for a traditional hammam (also known as a Turkish bath). During this ancient Ottoman body ritual, you’ll lay in the center of the room on a large marble slab while you’re scrubbed with a specific glove called a “kassa.” This exfoliating treatment removes dead cells to reveal baby-soft skin (read: You’ll feel like a snake shedding). Next, you’ll be gently rinsed with warm water, massaged all over with a floral incense-scented foam, and then rinsed again. The hammam goes beyond any spa treatment I’ve ever experienced—at the risk of sounding a bit sacrilegious, it feels almost baptismal. You’ll walk away feeling renewed and relaxed, so much so that you may want to head back to your villa for a cat nap or soak up the sun in one of the luxe cabanas at the hotel’s Frankie Beach Club.
If you feel like staying close by for dinner, try Malva, the hotel’s high-end restaurant named after the perennial purple mallow flower that grows around the property. Sit in the outdoor dining area where you’ll enjoy beautiful panoramic views of Torba Bay and a gentle breeze off the water that sways the rattan lanterns overhead. Enjoy the incredible and hyperlocal menu (here, this isn’t just a restaurant buzzword; most of the vegetables, tomatoes, and herbs are actually grown right on property), and allow the sommelier to expertly guide you to your next glass of wine. He gave us some delicious local picks that complemented everything from the fish and tomato salad to the rice pudding with coffee ice cream (a dessert I still regularly dream about). For a night cap, make your way over to Malva’s cocktail bar—they have all the classic fixings, but the mixologists there also know how to whip up a creative and delicious drink if you’re feeling adventurous.
The next day, fuel up for a day of exploring with a traditional Turkish breakfast and coffee at Ezi. Hop in the car and head to Etrim for a guided tour of the village and Etrim Hali Carpets (you can arrange transportation and this tour with the concierge team at LXR Hotels & Resorts ahead of time; they pride themselves on connecting guests with the local community through culturally immersive experiences). Though it’s just a 15-mile drive from Bodrum, Etrim is a nomadic mountain village and feels like you’re stepping into a totally different world. You’ll see old dwellings filled with stone hearths, clay pots, metal farming tools and copper kettles, while cows, roosters, and dogs wander through the streets and find shade under kilim-draped trees and wild cacti.
Etrim is rural and mostly untouched by modern society, but the village is known all around the country for its incredible handicraft. It actually made me a little emotional to watch the artisans seamlessly double-knotting and weaving hand-spun yarn into kilims and carpets with their capable, nimble fingers. These women and those before them have woven rugs using this method for hundreds of years. They still incorporate the same time-tested techniques like dyeing yarn with natural elements such as peach leaves, walnuts, herbs, and onion skins to get their signature vibrant colors and spinning long strands of silk from the worms found in the village’s mulberry trees.
Each rug also features different symbols that could be unique to a family or a specific village, so when you buy these beautiful rugs, you’re also buying a piece of that weaver’s story and local culture. Some of these rugs can take months or even years to make by hand, so when you see the piles of carpets and kilims stacked to the ceiling in the showroom, you can’t help but think of all the time, effort, and love that went into making each of them.
After your tour of the village and Etrim Hali, you’d be hard pressed to leave without a rug (I actually bought the vibrant blue and turquoise carpet made from wool and angora pictured on the floor below), but I promise it’s one travel souvenir you’ll cherish for years to come.
After your adventures in Etrim, make your way over to Karnas Vineyards for a wine pairing dinner. Though the family-owned boutique winery is known for their sustainable wines and masses of olive groves, the main building also boasts beautiful architecture modeled after ancient Roman cellars. Take in the spectacular views while you have dinner on the patio—the usually verdant land appears almost gilded at sunset. Don’t forget to buy a few bottles to take back with you; I thought the rosé was especially juicy and crushable for warm-weather months.
The rest of your time in Bodrum is truly dealer’s choice—if you’re into yachting, fishing, or sailing, Torba Bay is a beautiful place to spend a day on the water. There are also plenty of nearby islands and coves to explore, and the cool and tranquil turquoise water is ideal for taking a dip when you need a break from the Aegean sun. If you want a faster pace, you could head to Bodrum’s city center for local cuisine, bumping nightclubs, and great shopping. I recommend skipping the touristy stores and going straight to Yavuz Sandalet for a pair of handmade leather sandals and popping into Zeynep Doğal Ürünler for fragrant soaps and funky local art.
If it’s a market day (usually on Tuesdays), make a special trip to the city center to people-watch and stock up on souvenirs. Be warned: You have to wade past some fake Chanel bags and knock-off Polo shirts to get to the authentic stuff, but with a little patience you’ll find things like kassa mits, hammam soap, Turkish delight candy, loose leaf tea, culinary spices, evil eye jewelry, handmade linens, Turkish towels, and more. Your new favorite word on market day will be “pazarlık” (pronounced like pazzar-lick), which means “lower the price” or “bargain with me.” Most vendors will work with you, especially if you attempt to speak a few words in Turkish.
I felt extremely safe walking alone in downtown Bodrum, and local folks were very hospitable when I needed directions or help finding the best spot to eat a doner kebab. I also think it’s worth wandering down some back alleys to see a more authentic side of the city. Just a block or two off the main road, you’ll find cobblestone streets with cafes and markets selling seasonal produce, freshly caught fish, local cheeses, olives, and wine. I recommend making a to-go picnic or eating a little at each stop along the way before visiting Bodrum Castle and the Museum of Underwater Archeology. Take in the sights and history before heading back to the hotel for some well-deserved R&R (or another hammam treatment if you really want to treat yourself).
There’s something about Bodrum's energy that feels enchanting, like it’s on the cusp of becoming the next big thing. I hesitate to even write about this unspoiled destination because not very many American tourists know about it yet, and I don’t want to ruin its incredible magic. Perhaps it’s the combination of ancient history and rich culture or the modern amenities and luxury hospitality, but when you’re there, you truly feel like royalty. I had a hard time leaving, but it eventually came time for me (and my very overweight suitcase stuffed with a Turkish carpet, wine, sandals, and hammam supplies) to head home. If you ever get the chance to go to Bodrum, hop on the next plane—and, please, bring me with you.
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