Where to eat in Milwaukee's diverse Silver City neighborhood

Milwaukee is a city of neighborhoods, and dining critic Rachel Bernhard intends to explore them the best way she knows how: through food. In her series Movable Feasts, she sets out to craft the ultimate meal by visiting multiple dining destinations — plus popular stops along the way — to get a better taste of what each of the city's distinct neighborhoods has to offer. Which neighborhood should she visit next? Let her know at rseis@gannett.com. 

I’d always been curious how the Silver City neighborhood got its name, but it wasn’t until I began writing this piece that I finally looked into it. With a little research, I was delighted to learn it stemmed from the silver dollars that neighborhood workers spent at businesses along National Avenue in the late 1800s.

The story goes that when a visitor saw the silver dollars piled on a poker table at a local saloon, he remarked, “Why, this must be Silver City!” And the name stuck.

I love any origin story that begins with a knee-slappin' exclamation.

Milwaukee's Silver City is a densely packed neighborhood between 31^st and 39^th streets, with the Menomonee River running directly north and Greenfield Avenue at the south. It’s friendly to walkers, runners and bikers, thanks to the proximity of the Hank Aaron State Trail, which can be accessed just behind the Urban Ecology Center of the Menomonee Valley on Pierce Street.

The neighborhood's main thoroughfare is National Avenue, home to several long-standing businesses from the Exchange Recording Complex to the Asian International Market to Mamie’s, a cash-only neighborhood bar that’s been slingin’ suds for more than 40 years.

And even with its small footprint, the neighborhood boasts a handful of remarkable and diverse restaurants representing cuisine from Asia, Puerto Rico, Mexico and America all within about two city blocks of one another.

Here are just a few of the best places to dine in Silver City.

For breakfast and brunch: Orenda Cafe

3514 W. National Ave.; orendacafe.org 

I almost hesitated to include Orenda in this roundup because, frankly, I think it’s one of the best hidden-gem brunch spots in the city. But then again, I want this place to gain all the fans it deserves.

This sunny cafe is such a friendly place, with exceptionally warm service that makes you feel like you’re at a small-town diner. Pick your seat — table, booth or at the bar — and grab a cup of the cafe's custom Anodyne coffee blend, hot tea or a cocktail while perusing the substantial menu filled with classic breakfast fare and fun spins on brunch-time favorites.

On the savory side, you can’t miss with any of the super fluffy — and super-stuffed — omelets, or the ultra-clever twists on eggs Benedict (the salmon eggs benny comes with a magenta-hued beet hollandaise sauce — how fun). There’s a stellar corned beef hash with a creamy pan sauce that’s to die for and a wicked-good avocado toast on multigrain bread with fresh tomato, onion and eggs topped with chia seeds, if you’re feeling like a lighter meal.

Sweet-favoring brunchers will have a blast at Orenda, too. Go Southern with the candied pecan and caramel pancakes or get a kick out of the Jack Fire French toast, with a whiskey-tinged apple compote that’s so comforting.

If you like piña coladas, well, it’s never too early to have one at Orenda. They’re on the cafe's cocktail menu, as are four types of Bloody Marys, four different bubbly mimosas and a handful of signature cocktails, including the Morning Mule, an early-riser take on the Moscow Mule served with Stoli Citrus vodka and a splash of orange juice.

For a quick lunch or dinner: Vientiane Noodle Shop

3422 W. National Ave.; vientianenoodleshop.com 

While “Top Chef“ was taping portions of its upcoming season in Milwaukee over the summer, two of its high-profile stars made a stop at this small Laotian restaurant in Silver City.

On Instagram, host Kristen Kish posted a photo of her food and called it “so good,” while judge Gail Simmons quipped, "Milwaukee is spicier than anticipated and I like it."

With high praise from two women who know fantastic food just about better than anyone, I could stop right there. But then I wouldn’t get to gush about the greatness that is Vientiane Noodle Shop.

This unassuming noodle shop has been family-owned and run in Silver City for more than 20 years. It may not be the most glam-looking restaurant in town, but the service is warm, sweet and speedy and the food is some of the most comforting and flavorful Southeast Asian cuisine in the city.

Posted in the window of Vientiane is a neon sign that reads "PHO LAO,” with a steamy bowl of soup glowing up top. And although its larp, a traditional Laotian aromatic salad, and their curries are delicious, to me the pho is the highlight of Vientiane’s menu — my pick for the best pho in Milwaukee.

It’s served in a gigantic bowl — more than enough for two servings — with the most beautifully balanced broth, clear and rich, not too salty and a little bit earthy. I almost always go for the chicken variety, with big, juicy pieces of dark and white chicken meat bobbing in the broth along with a heap of long, thin rice noodles. Vientiane also serves up beef and meatball, seafood, duck, oxtail and tofu pho, all with a generous scattering of cilantro and sliced green onion floating on top. Each bowl of pho is served a side of lime wedges, bean sprouts and Thai basil, but you can dress it up even further with any of the sauces and seasonings you’ll find on every table at Vientiane (proceed with caution when spooning into the chili garlic oil — it packs serious heat!).

I can’t think of a better place to duck into when you’re in need of something steamy and rich on a dreary day. The soup — and the service — at Vientiane is mom-and-pop comfort to the core.

For tasty takeout: Brother’s Backyard Barbecue

3530 W. National Ave.; facebook.com/Brothersbackyardbbq 

One of the newest restaurants in Silver City, Brother’s opened in late 2022 after friends Michael Hester and Christopher Patton expanded their barbecue catering business to a brick-and-mortar operation.

And, oh, am I glad they did. Brother’s Backyard Barbecue uses a custom-built smoker to create super tender, smoky flavor in everything from turkey legs to full- and half-racks of rub-seasoned ribs. You can smell that smoker at work as you walk up to the building — a top-five aroma in my book.

I’m a big fan of their brisket, impossibly tender to the point where I can cut right through it with a fork. And the moist pulled chicken comes smothered in a thick, sweet sauce that fans of Memphis-style barbecue will love. The rib tips — bountiful per order — have a deep, crispy bark to them.

You can order most of the meats by the half or whole pound, or dinner-style, which comes with your choice of two sides. But if you’re grabbing dinner for yourself or for two, you can’t beat the combo deals. For $25, pick two meats and get three sides, or for $30, pick three meats and three sides.

And the sides here are not an afterthought. Seriously. I love their mac and cheese, coated in a creamy, cheesy sauce speckled with black pepper and topped with finely shredded cheddar. You can't go wrong with the sweet-and-smoky baked beans slow-cooked with hunks of pork, or the tangy greens, either.

Brother’s Backyard Barbecue has dine-in seating — five tables total — but it does most of its business via takeout. Call ahead — (414) 488-8492 — or use a third-party app like DoorDash to place an order.

For a coffee break: Newline Community Cafe

3618 W. Pierce St., newline.cafe

The Silver City neighborhood has just one coffee shop, and it’s a special one. Newline Community Cafe looks like many typical java joints — cozy furniture, large tables for gathering or working, vibrant colors and friendly service — but it’s largely run by students at the neighboring Escuela Verde Public Charter School. The students, with the help of advisors, make espresso drinks, pour hot or cold-brew coffee and tea, run the counter, and sell snacks, bottled and canned drinks and more.

Working at the coffee shop is part of the school’s curriculum, with a goal to teach students skills they can use after graduating, such as customer service, money handling and, of course, barista work.

Newline Community Cafe serves Colectivo coffee, and the student-baristas can whip up anything from a frothy caramel-vanilla latte to an oat-milk mocha. The cafe, which was partly designed by students before it opened in 2021, is so lovely. It's stocked with shelves of board games and books, soft music jangles in the background, bright plants sit in the windowsill and student-made artwork adds so much character to the space.

Anyone is welcome at the café, and all proceeds directly benefit the students and school.

Rachel Bernhard joined the Journal Sentinel as dining critic in June 2023. She’s been busy exploring the Milwaukee-area food scene to share her favorite finds with readers along the way. Like all Journal Sentinel reporters, she buys all meals, accepts no gifts and is independent of all establishments she covers.

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Your guide to restaurants in Milwaukee's Silver City neighborhood