Where to find the best crispy, juicy Cuban sandwiches in Tallahassee
In the 2014 film, “Chef,” actor John Leguizamo sets out to make the perfect Cuban sandwich for his friend’s new food truck business. He is moving to the beat of Latin music while he marinates a pork shoulder. Each step in the assembly process is treated with reverence: roasting the meat in a mojo sauce, adding the ham, cheese and pickles, then slathering the bread with mustard. The final touch: a smidgeon of butter sizzling on the sandwich press.
The film inspired more love for the beloved sandwich. But the Cubano has had a starring role in restaurants, dining rooms and in history – possibly for centuries. To honor the humble lunch favorite, Aug. 23 has been named National Cuban Sandwich Day. There are even Cuban sandwich food festivals.
The sandwich’s appeal is no longer limited to just South Florida and Tampa but its origin has long been debated.
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Where did it all start?
There are references to the sandwich that date back to the Cuban Taíno tribe.
In their book, "The Cuban sandwich: A History in Layers," authors Andrew T. Huse, Barbara C. Cruz and Jeff Houck set out to find the story behind the sandwich.
"It was born in Cuba, from the mixto – literally mixed sandwich – meaning, you know, mixed different kinds of meats, for example, and cheese," Cruz told NPR. "And by way of cigar workers going to Key West, then coming to Ybor City and Tampa."
It’s said that salami became a part of the recipe in Tampa due to the area’s large Italian immigrant population. And then there was the Cubano in South Florida.
“The Cuban revolution at the end of the 1950s resulted in an influx of immigrants in Miami, and with each change in migration, new ways to make the sandwich emerged,” according to the authors. Miami, for instance, left out the salami but added the iron press.
Longtime rivalry
If you’ve spent any time in South Florida or the Tampa area, you know that asking “Who has the best Cuban sandwich?” evokes a lot of passions. It’s a long standing rivalry between Tampa and Miami.
In surveying readers about their top Cuban sandwich choices in Tallahassee, many continued that rivalry, though they agreed the sandwich of their dreams – with the right pork or traditional bread – isn’t easy to find in the capital city.
“Cuban customers have been begging me to make Cuban bread,” said farmer/chef Chris Wagner, owner of Monticello’s Rocky Soil Family Farm with wife Kiona.
“It’s a yeast-driven dough not a sourdough,” said Wagner, who sells his bread, among other products and crops, on the Red Hills Small Farm Alliance Online Market or in person at the Tallahassee Farmers Market. “The fundamental difference is that it’s made with lard.”
Like the bakers at the famed La Segunda Central Bakery in Tampa, which has been in business since 1915, Wagner tops his loaves with a palmetto leaf, which leaves an indentation in the bread and holds in the moisture.
Whatever your preference, here are eight recommendations for Cuban-style sandwiches, in alphabetical order, to consider from readers of Tallahassee Table and the Tallahassee Democrat to celebrate National Cuban Sandwich Day.
Blue Tavern
1206 N. Monroe St., 850-815-8566; bluetaverntallahassee.com
A blues club is a surprise choice for a Cuban sandwich, but fans rave about the tavern’s rendition, with a house-made mojo pork, Virginia sliced ham, Swiss cheese, several slices of pickles and spicy mustard on Cuban bread. The sandwich is then pressed on the panini grill, a perfect accompaniment to a musical evening.
Gordos Cuban Cuisine
Gordos Northside, 1460 Market St. and Campus Location, 1907 W. Pensacola St.; gordoscubanfood.com
Eddie Agramonte, who grew up in Hialeah, brought Cuban food to Tallahassee in 1996, and now operates two spots at Pensacola Street (his original) and Market Street. He serves traditional Cuban fare such as croquetas, palomilla steak and ropa vieja. His sandwiches include the traditional Cuban, with pork slowly marinated in a mojo sauce, the Medianoche (Midnight) – a cousin to the Cubano but served on a sweeter egg dough bread – and a Cuban-style sandwich with turkey.
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Growler Country
3305 Capital Circle NE, 850-765-7771; growlercountry.com
Growler Country is best known as a craft beer pub but its Cuban sandwich is one of the unexpected gems emerging from the kitchen. The highlight of Growler’s sandwich is the juicy pork, marinated in a fragrant Cuban mojo sauce, which has a citrusy tang. The sandwich has layers of pork, ham, Swiss cheese, thinly sliced pickles and mustard tweaked with Caribbean flavors, served on Cuban bread. Mario Fernández, co-owner with wife Vanessa and the De Valle family, said he can count his 80-year-old mom, who left Cuba at age 17, as a fan of the sandwich. A second Growler’s will be opening in Northeast Tallahassee as part of a larger food/entertainment complex. A bonus: ovens to bake their own Cuban bread for both locations.
Habana’s Boardwalk
2819 Mahan Dr., 850-391-9111; habanasboardwalk.com
“I love Habana's Cubans,” was the response from reader Tanji Hall. “I think they are the best in town!”
Habana’s co-owners, Erick Urra, originally from Havana, and wife Johanna present an extensive menu of Cuban and Latin fare, such as yuca frita and croquetas, bistec de palomilla, vaca fritta and Peru’s lomo saltado. Among the sandwiches: a pressed Cubano, Medianoche on sweet bread and a Pan Con Bistec, a palomilla steak with tomatoes, onions and lettuce on Cuban bread. Finish your meal with a cafe con leche and flan.
Heluva Sub
2475 Apalachee Pkwy., 850-880-4634; heluvasub.com
This small, local sub shop is easy to miss on Apalachee Parkway but it indeed offers what customer Gail Brayman, a former South Floridian, calls “a helluva sub.” The Cuban is made with chunks of mojo pork from Miami and bread from a Miami bakery, along with layers of ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. The menu also offers Italian combos, pressed or cold subs, a Rachel and Reuben, and cheesesteak specials.
Hilltop Country Store
14807 Mahan Dr.; 850-906-0752.
Like many fans, reader Debbie Ciccarelli Glover boasts about the homey food at this hidden gem, reminiscent of an old-time general store. In business since 1997, Hilltop is a combination convenience store, deli and restaurant off Interstate 10. For Glover, the Cuban sandwich is worth the trip: “It’s a good ratio of ingredients. They press it and imo, it’s the perfect bite. I’ve had Cuban sandwiches in Miami and Tampa and I still prefer Hilltop’s.”
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Hummingbird Wine Bar
1216-4 E. Monroe St.; 850-296-2766; hummingbird.wine
The food, aside from the thoughtful wine selection, is a hit at Hummingbird's. Among the favorites is a Cubano served on true Cuban bread – with the palmetto leaf – from Ybor City. The bread is buttered and toasted and inside, there’s house-made mojo pork, sliced ham, Swiss cheese, house pickles and yellow mustard. Then it's pressed. While here, try the chef’s homemade ice cream.
Itz Smackin’
620-1 Railroad Square; 850-329-6490
Itz Smackin’ recently opened as a new anchor in Railroad Square Art District, a local restaurant bringing Miami and Latin food and drinks. The restaurant, in the former spot of the Railroad Square Crafthouse, was developed by Miami natives German Zelaya, a managing partner of the local Crafty Crabs restaurants, and Dominique Zito, a Florida State University graduate. The restaurant features dishes such as pan con bistec (from Cuba), lomo saltado (from Peru), and the parrilla (from Argentina) along with Cuban sandwiches. A bonus: the sandwiches are pressed on bread from Tampa’s La Segunda bakery.
Rochelle Koff writes about food and dining at TallahasseeTable.com, on Facebook@TheTallahasseeTable and Twitter @tallytable. Reach her at TallahasseeTable@gmail.com.
This article originally appeared on Tallahassee Democrat: Favorite restaurants to find good Cuban sandwiches in Tallahassee
