What's it like to eat at RI's James Beard nominated restaurants? Take this tasty tour.
Wondering what all the hype is about James Beard Foundation semifinalists?
The awards are widely considered the "Oscars" of the dining world because the restaurant industry doesn't have a lot of opportunities for awards. There are Michelin star ratings. They go back more than 120 years in Europe but didn't take hold in the U.S. until the 21st century. They only rate restaurants in New York, California, Chicago, Florida and Washington, D.C.
Scoring a James Beard is a path to national recognition for a restaurant or chef.
Rhode Island boasts 10 James Beard semifinalists for the 2024 awards. It's the best showing ever with four restaurants and one chef in national categories and five in the regional Best Chef Northeast category. The semifinalists come from Providence, Newport, Central Falls, Middletown, Bristol and Warren. The five finalists in each category will be announced on April 3 by the Beard Foundation.
I'm here to clue you in on the delights to be enjoyed dining at these nominated restaurants. Hint: Try everything.
Tuxpan Taqueria
The Mexican kitchen at 355 Broad St. in Central Falls is one of 30 semifinalists for Best New Restaurant. It's your classic hole-in-the-wall restaurant with an unassuming appearance. It was once a doughnut shop and the drive thru window, though not in use, is still there.
Once you walk in, the warmth of the Alcantar family envelops you. They'll happily guide you through the menu posted on the counter and pose for photos while cooking.
Diego Alcantar and his family came to Rhode Island from Tuxpan, a town in Michoacán, Mexico, and his restaurant career started as a dishwasher. He's preparing to open a second restaurant, Cielito Mexican Kitchen in downtown Providence. Meanwhile, his mother Maria is at Tuxpan, cooking on the grill and stovetop right behind the counter.
The food is homestyle and approachable from the classic taco to the overstuffed burritos. The meat choices allow you to play it safe with steak, chicken or pork; or go daring with tripe or beef tongue. A chorizo option is appealing on a torta.
Not to be missed is the Pambazo, a Mexican sandwich with meat and diced potato in a roll dipped in red sauce. Don't miss grabbing a bunuelo for dessert. Delicate fried dough treats will remind you of wandis but even lighter.
There are a few tables here but mainly this is a takeout business.
Giusto
The modern Italian restaurant – found at 4 Commercial Wharf at Hammetts Hotel on the Newport waterfront – is a semifinalist for Outstanding Hospitality. This national category honors restaurants that foster a sense of hospitality while demonstrating consistent excellence in food, atmosphere and operations.
Check, check and check. Giusto is very much a reflection of owner Kevin O'Donnell who seems to do everything with ease.
He grew up in North Kingstown and worked at 22 Bowen's before starting at Johnson & Wales University. After his first year externship, he did all his learning on the job and worked at Del Posto in New York and opened a restaurant in Paris. His SRV in Boston was a semifinalist for James Beard Best New Restaurant in 2016.
O’Donnell wanted the menu to set the tone for a fun, playful dining experience. Think elevated fried ricotta for an appetizer and a fancy affogato for dessert that pays homage to a Fluffer-Nutter. Don't miss either.
Service is flawless as well, from the cheerful welcome at the door to the advice on wine to the efficient delivery of food, even on the busiest of days.
Courtland Club
In 2007, Jason Schectman, a real estate professional, wanted to create a bar where he’d like to drink. He succeeded not just in pleasing himself, but others. James Beard judges noticed and named his Courtland Club a semifinalist for Best Bar.
He's created a place that curates a selection of drinks that are served in a unique atmosphere. Every bar likes to call itself a speakeasy but Courtland Club really is. There are no markings on the building, just a number – 51 – on a quiet street between Broadway and Atwells Avenue.
The space was a bakery long ago and a social club most recently. From distressed brick walls to cozy sitting spaces and excellent drinks, it all comes together in delicious harmony, and mystery.
Last month, operation of the kitchen was taken over by Nimki by Nikhil Naiker. His “New England Tropical” menu pairs well with the cocktail menu which currently features plenty of infused spirits, spicy blends and cool tequila drinks. It's all eat, drink and be merry here.
Sky Hanuel Kim at Gift Horse
Sky Haneul Kim, chef at Gift Horse, 272 Westminster St., in Providence, is a semifinalist for "Emerging Chef." The category honors a young chef who displays exceptional talent and is likely to make a significant impact in years to come.
Kim is already making her talents known with delicious and clever dishes at the new restaurant from Ben Sukle and general manager/partner Bethany Caliaro.
Raw bar meets fusion meets the unexpected. Sauces include a kimchi mignonette and a fermented green chili hot sauce. Not to be missed are the smoked fish dip with puffed seaweed chips and the Hae Muchim with raw fish, cabbage, fried sweet potato, apple and spiced with gochujang.
Ordering a variety of small plates, including the warm Scallop Roll, is very satisfying here and the cocktails aren't to be missed though the wine list is lovely, too.
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The vibe is pure fun with a horseshoe bar set up for socializing and allowing for a view into the kitchen.
Bywater
Nominated for Outstanding Restaurant among the best in the country is Bywater, the Warren eatery at 54 State St. The nomination is a first for owner Kate Dickson and her oyster bar which opened nine years ago.
The restaurant closed for a break just as the Beard nomination was announced on Jan. 24. According to social media posts, Dickson expects to reopen soon. She did not respond to an email for more information. Follow on Instagram for news.
Basil Yu at Yagi Noodles
At Yagi Noodles at 20 Long Wharf in Newport, Basil Yu is nominated for Best Chef Northeast. He specializes in handmade-from-scratch ramen and other creative dishes. He is a first-generation Chinese American with a Bachelor of Science degree in health sciences who grew up working in his parents' New Hampshire restaurant.
After cooking at the White Barn Inn in Maine and the Vanderbilt in Newport, he followed his passion to Japan and Singapore to study Asian cuisine. How lucky for Rhode Island diners that he and Kodi Keith opened Yagi first as a pop-up and now as a large, airy restaurant.
His ramen dishes are layered with flavors built from rich stocks, beautifully cooked mushrooms, greens, crisps, marinated meats and more. The staff at Yagi will take you through the menu to get you the dish of your dreams. Don't miss the Spicy Duck Miso if you like heat, and Tonkotsu pork ramen if you don't. Both are delicious and special.
The Seared Dumplings are light and divine and the deconstructed Bao buns a delight. The fried chicken Karaage is a nice starter. A vegetarian curry bowl Kare Raisu delivers more heat.
From the lovely art, to the elegant table settings to the drinks which include beer, wine, sake and milk teas with brown sugar boba, everything here is just perfect.
Subat Dilmurat at Jahunger
The setting at Jahunger, 333 Wickenden St. in Providence, is a soothing one. The walls are a soft cream, the tables dark and elegant and throw pillows soften the bank of wall seats. There are three-dimensional wall hangings. Everything says come on in.
So too does the food of Subat Dilmurat, Best Chef Northeast semifinalist. It will entice you in, with aromas that waft over Wickenden Street. He offers a taste of Uyghur Asian cuisine from a region in Northwest China.
Starting with the noodle dishes (because who can resist handmade noodles), the textures are divine.
Laghman Noodle is a traditional dish for Uyghur, with hand-pulled noodles mixed with tender beef slices and a medley of vegetables. What makes the dish? It's what Dilmurat's wife and co-owner Nadira "Nadia" Parhat calls "an exquisite blend of spices." Indeed she's right.
The noodles are called long life noodles and they are tender as silk.
On the other hand, the Jahunger Noodle dish has noodles that boast a chewier, heartier texture. It's equally satisfying but different. This dish comes alive with dried chilies mixed in with tender beef, sichuan peppercorns, onions, garlic and Chinese chives.
There are plenty of vegetarian options you can explore here, too. You can learn some about the foods and see photos online at their new website jahunger.com. But to taste is know there's something special going on here.
Andy Teixiera of Newport Vineyards
At Newport Vineyards, 909 East Main Rd., in Middletown, chef Andy Teixeira has done everything from launching the menu at their Taproot Brewing to sourcing local ingredients and growing root vegetables, figs, lemons, mushrooms and all their herbs for his dishes. He's now added Best Chef Northeast nomination to his list of achievements.
It's a delight to sit at the bar or one of the tables by the Taproot brewing room. There you can enjoy a flight of freshly made beers with one of their signature communal sharing boards. A vegetarian antipasto features produce grown on the property as well as Narragansett Creamery cheeses and grilled bread using wild yeast sourdough from their grapes. Of course, Newport Vineyard wines are all available as well.
Right now his menu is served in Taproot from Wednesday to Sunday but they will go to seven days in April. When they have weddings they move Taproot up to the Overlook space, formerly Brix. The Tank Patio opens Memorial Day weekend.
Maria Meza at Dolores
Maria Meza opened her first family restaurant, El Rancho Grande, in Providence in 2008, and now cooks at Dolores, 100 Hope St. in Providence, where she has earned a James Beard Best Chef Northeast nomination.
At Dolores, diners can enjoy her contemporary dishes from the Mixteca Region, in the state of Oaxaca, Mexico. Try her Baja Fish Tacos made with beer-battered haddock. Don't miss a taste of one of her mole dishes, especially when made with Baffoni Poultry Farm chicken and their house-made tortillas. She can make any mole vegetarian, too.
You'll also want to score a seat at the bar and enjoy one of their mezcal selections or a custom margarita.
Soon, the Meza family led by Joaquin Meza Jr., will open a second restaurant at Track 15, the planned food hall in Providence. It's all a family affair.
Pete Carvelli at Foglia
How wonderful to have a plant-based chef on the James Beard semifinalist list for Best Chef Northeast. That's Pete Carvelli, who led a whole other life before he opened Foglia at 31 State St. in Bristol in 2022. He was a lawyer who became a chef. He's been a vegetarian for years.
Carvelli's food is beautiful. The menu changes seasonally regularly but the way he styles and builds his dishes does not.
You can enjoy his vegan pasta dishes including an Agnolotti with tofu ricotta or his housemade Pappardelle "Bolognese" or Fazzoletti, little handkerchiefs, with funghi filling. A Lion's Mane Mushroom filet will satisfy any meat lover. Also on the menu is a Saffron Risotto and an Eggplant Katsu.
Foglia also offers a chef's tasting menu with optional wine pairing. Many dishes have gluten-free options.
Bonus here: Desserts from the talented high school senior Piper McAloon who is headed for Johnson & Wales University in September. She's been there from the beginning.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: James Beard nominated restaurants in RI: Take a tour that gets them all
