Sophie, the Duchess of Edinburgh's Coronation Outfit Was 'Iconic in a Quiet Way,' Says Designer (Exclusive)

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Suzannah Crabb, who designed Sophie's dress for the coronation, said she took inspiration from London-based ceramic artist Rachel Dein for the dress' floral embroidery

Dan Charity - WPA Pool/Getty Images
Dan Charity - WPA Pool/Getty Images

Sophie, Duchess of Edinburgh made a style statement on coronation day.

The wife of Prince Edward looked regal on King Charles' coronation on Saturday in a bespoke handcrafted cream gown by Suzannah London worn underneath her Royal Victoria Order Mantle.

Founder and designer of the eponymous brand Suzannah Crabb tells PEOPLE exclusively that she had wanted to make "something unique, iconic, but in a quiet way" and that she wanted Sophie to "feel amazing and confident" in the dress. The designer, known for her classic and feminine designs, said she incorporated a few "gentle British touches" and took inspiration from London-based ceramic artist Rachel Dein for the design of the floral embroidery.

Crabb says she was inspired by Dein's plaster-cast tiles which she makes using British meadow flowers, creating an "amazing three-dimensional effect." The designer reached out to Dein to talk about the dress and said that the more they talked about it, the more she "fell in love" with the idea.

Related:Who Is Prince Edward's Wife? All About Sophie, Duchess of Edinburgh

Dan Charity - WPA Pool/Getty Images
Dan Charity - WPA Pool/Getty Images

"I kept thinking this would make the most amazing embroidery," Crabb tells PEOPLE, adding that she discovered the artist at the Chelsea Flower Show. "I thought this would be a really beautifully unique thing to do, and it's created purely by British craftsmanship."

Embroiderer Jenny King used a particular Irish embroidery technique using a machine that ceased to be in use since the 1950s in which she "freehand uses the machine to paint the art but with stitch." Crabb, who called the dress a "unique piece of couture," said the entire commission took "a couple of months but we didn't work on it solidly, there were so many different parts to the process but it just builds and we would do fittings in between."

Sophie, who has worn Suzannah London since 2015, has turned to the label numerous times, particularly for formal royal engagements such as Royal Ascot or jubilee celebrations or most recently for the late Queen Elizabeth's funeral last September. Kate Middleton is also a fan of the label.

While the designer is happy with the response of the public, she's over the moon with the feedback from her royal client. "I've heard she's thrilled," says Crabb, who nervously watched the ceremony on television with her husband and daughter. "The reaction from everyone has been incredible; it was a joyous event."

Related:See the Best Photos from King Charles' Coronation Concert

Much like Sophie's dress, the matching floral headpiece was a labor of love. Royal favorite milliner Jane Taylor tells PEOPLE they had worked with "elements of the gown to inspire the botanical theme."

The handmade satin leaves, set on a headband and encrusted with Swarovski crystals and silver-plated snowdrops took about eight hours to make. "Each leaf took around an hour to complete and then needs to be shaped to work with the form of the headpiece," explains Taylor, who made hats for several guests at the coronation, including Sophie's daughter, Lady Louise.

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Like mom, Lady Louise turned to Suzannah London for the coronation, opting for the Kumiko Iris dress from her ready-to-wear collection. The 1970s style dress, a collaboration with the French photographer Rachel Levy, features photographs of iris and a detachable bow at the neck.

"It was quite ethereal but it looked effortless on her, she looked very beautiful," says Crabb, adding: "I'm very proud; it was a real honor."

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