Snakes on Rodeo Drive: Inside Bulgari’s Serpenti Jewelry Pop-Up
Snakes slither, cobras strike and boas squeeze have instilled dread in people for millennia. But snakes also are objects of fascination — for their sly power and a cunning born of a singular evolution. Bulgari has recognized the allure of snakes for 75 years, ever since creating its now iconic Serpenti jewelry in 1948.
Famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor — of whom Richard Burton once remarked, “The only word she knows in Italian is Bulgari”— the Italian luxury house’s Serpenti collection made a glamorous appearance at the 2023 Oscars on March 12. Presenter Pedro Pascal wore two Serpenti rings, while Angela Bassett, Cara Delevingne and Phoebe Waller-Bridge all gleamed in high-jewelry Serpenti necklaces sparkling with diamonds and emeralds.
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Now through April 16, it’s possible to see a whole trove of Serpenti jewelry in one place at a special pop-up — the house’s first-ever in the U.S. — on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Visiting the store, which celebrates the 75th anniversary of the collection, provides a deep dive into the ways in which snakes have inspired innovation at Bulgari over decades. Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti designs include everything from the house’s flexible Tubogas bracelets — that twist around the wrist and feature “a precious head with eyes in rubies, emeralds or diamonds that conceal the dial,” says Bulgari creative director Lucia Silvestri — to the elevation of serpents to the realm of high jewelry, which began in 2012 with the introduction of Serpenti necklaces in diamonds.
At the pop-up, not only are there incomparable designs awaiting discovery — from high jewelry and fine jewelry to secret watches and leather goods — but the displays also give insight into the creative process, the craftmanship behind the glamour, innovative advertising campaigns over the years, and a look at some of the iconic women who have been charmed by Serpenti including everyone from legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland to current style star Zendaya.
The Euphoria Emmy Award-winner wore the Serpenti Hypnotic Emerald necklace to the Venice Film Festival in 2021, a stunning 93-carat emerald piece that was also featured in the Matthieu Menu-directed documentary Inside the Dream which screened at the Toronto International Film Festival. The doc told the story of Bulgari and detailed the creative process behind its jewelry collections, paying special attention to Serpenti and the Hypnotic Emerald necklace and how it came to be.
Says Silvestri of the magnetism of serpents, “The symbolism of this icon is indeed very powerful and fascinating and has its roots in very ancient times. In mythology, for example, it was believed to possess transformative and regenerative powers as well as healing ones because of its ability to shed its skin. This fascinating metamorphosis, combined with its seductive allure, makes it an icon that perfectly represents evolution, strength, self-determination as well as an intrinsic elegant spirit and charisma.”
Inside the ephemeral shop, also look for a sculptural installation by Italian artist Davide Quayole that is inspired by serpent shapes and is intentionally left unfinished.
The Bulgari 75th anniversary Serpenti pop-up is located at 431 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills.
