She opened a restaurant to serve 1 person: her daughter. A decade later, it's a destination
On the advice of her doctor, Sophia Moreno went gluten-free when she was diagnosed with celiac disease at about 9 years old. Like any 9-year-old, she wasn't happy to learn that she could no longer eat the cookies and cupcakes that her classmates brought in to share, and even less thrilled to give up her favorite foods, pasta and pizza.
"Shortly after I was diagnosed, I had a hot dog, and the (gluten-free) bun I just remember was so repulsive to me. I was so sad that day. I was like, 'That's really what it's gonna be like? It's gonna be this bland and crumbly?' It was pretty discouraging," said Sophia, who is now 21.
Symptoms of the incurable autoimmune disorder can be treated by following a strict gluten-free diet, but the change in one person's diet can be a challenge for the whole family.
It was especially difficult for Julie Moreno, a mother of six kids. Not only was it heartbreaking to see her young daughter distressed, but she also faced a challenge when it came to family mealtimes.
"I had a house full of people I have to feed," she said. "And they didn't like the gluten-free food that I would buy ... overpriced and just stale and oversugared. I think to compensate for the gluten, they add more sugar."
She said she started "messing around" in the kitchen and came up with a gluten-free flour blend of her own. Her creations had wider appeal than she'd ever imagined. That year, she baked a gluten-free red velvet cake for her brother-in-law's birthday. Compliments from her extended family surprised her — none of them could tell it was gluten-free.
She started baking jewel-shaped cupcakes out of her house and came up with the slogan "everyone deserves a jewel," meaning that everyone should be able to eat something safe, yummy and pretty. (The name was also a nod to her high school nickname, Jules.)
In 2012, she decided to open Jewel's Bakery and Cafe in Arcadia as a safe haven for Sophia and others with dietary restrictions.
"I don't think people should be anxious about not being able to eat food," Julie said.
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Opening a cafe where everyone feels safe
Julie comes from a family of bakers. Her grandmother used to decorate wedding cakes, and she says her mother, who is now a co-owner of Jewel's, has always been an excellent chef. But, even though food has been a constant in Julie's family history, she wasn't always sure she'd open a restaurant, much less one with a menu that is entirely gluten-free.
"I would have never done it if my daughter didn't get sick," Julie said.
Many in the Phoenix community are grateful she did. Julie said her gluten-free customers have told her they drive several hours to visit the restaurant on the weekend. But there's one customer in particular who has always been the guiding force behind the restaurant — her daughter.
When Sophia was in elementary and high school, the restaurant was close enough to her school that Julie and Sophia's older siblings were able to drop off meals at lunchtime.
"I didn't go hungry anymore or have difficulty figuring out what to eat for lunch. And it's made it a lot easier to enjoy eating out with others," Sophia said. "My other friends don't have severe allergies or have to be gluten-free, but they all just love the restaurant."
Now in its eleventh year of business, Jewel's Bakery and Cafe has garnered a number of awards and become an essential restaurant in Phoenix. The modestly sized dining room is characterized by lively yellow booths and soft wood accents, punctuated by the mouthwatering smells of freshly made chicken and waffles.
In addition to the popular fried chicken and waffles, the restaurant serves breakfast burritos, salads and sandwiches, and the bakery case is stocked with fresh-made cinnamon rolls and cupcakes.
On the weekends, it's not unusual to see lines of brunch-goers waiting outside the restaurant, undeterred by the Phoenix heat.
"I am just totally blown away weekly by the responses, by how many people we have coming through our doors," Julie said.
Julie said she's been asked countless times over the years about opening another location. And more than a decade later, she's now in talks with potential franchising partners and a second location is in the works for 2024.
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'I really look up to her'
Julie's children have begun forging their own paths, but Jewel's remains a family business, in inspiration if not daily operation.
Sophia has a job she loves at an animal hospital. She said that working alongside her mother in the restaurant for three years during her teenage years taught her a lot about herself. And now, she feels closer to her mother than ever.
"It makes me really happy that she has something that she loves for work, and how she takes care of it all herself. I really look up to her," Sophia said. "She's her own boss. I might like that for myself someday."
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How to visit Jewel's Bakery and Cafe
Jewel's Bakery and Cafe offers gluten-free, vegetarian and other allergen-free dining options. The cafe is open six days a week (closed on Monday) from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Details: 4041 E. Thomas Road, Suite 101, Phoenix. 602-714-5243, jewelsbakeryandcafe.com.
Reach the reporter at endia.fontanez@gannett.com. Follow @EndiaFontanez on Twitter.
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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: A mother's love built this Phoenix restaurant. Her waffles made it famous
