Rhode Island's newest Jewish deli is here: Get a first look at Maven's Delicatessen
Maven's Delicatessen, one of the most anticipated openings of the year, is finally here, almost.
The Pawtucket restaurant now expects to open Monday, Dec. 3 with fresh bagels, lox, whitefish, corned beef sandwiches, Reubens, rye bread, challah, pastrami, black and white cookies and pickles on every table.
Restaurateur Jason Sugarman is as thrilled as the public to open Rhode Island's first Jewish deli in years.
At a preview press dinner on Nov. 16, Sugarman wanted to showcase dishes for all three meals. He featured bagels and lox served with red onions, capers, egg salad, tomatoes and cream cheese for breakfast. A corned beef Reuben is one of the sandwiches that will be available all day. Pan-seared salmon with kasha varnishkes (bowtie pasta and buckwheat groats) and lemon-dill sour cream will be a dinner entree. Carrot cake, and black and white cookies are among the sweet endings.
The restaurant has table seating for 100 plus, plus counter stools for take-out. Cases are ready to be filled with all the egg salad, lox, whitefish, bagels and bread to go. The kitchen is oversized and for good reason. They are smoking meats and making all the bagels and breads including rye and challah.
Sugarman is excited not just about the concept which as an experienced restaurateur, saw the demand. Now, that it's almost a reality, he's also excited about the team he's assembled. From experienced chefs and bakers to young kids hired for their first jobs, they will run the restaurant seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
There are others vital to Maven's development including wife Lauren Sugarman, partner Ben Remick, culinary director and partner Jaime D'Oliveira, general manager Sarah Berman and Scott Taylor, executive chef and bakery director.
There's no mistaking this is Sugarman's passion project. He's loved delis since childhood when he visited his grandparents in Florida and started each visit at Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House. He has wanted to bring one to Rhode Island for years. His childhood memories include comic books, available for purchase at the counter.
The restaurant will open daily at 7 a.m. and close at 9 p.m. on weekdays and 10 p.m. on weekends. But the space at 727 East Ave. in Pawtucket, will rarely be empty. Sugarman said the team is working all day and night as they smoke food, boil and bake bagels and make breads.
Maven's will not be a kosher deli. Sugarman wants to have his Reuben sandwich on the menu and that is not negotiable to him. The sandwich, made with corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing on rye bread, cannot be kosher because it combines meat and dairy.
Sugarman said that one of the reasons modern delis fail is they bring in outside products, including commercial cold cuts and breads, and don't make their own. He will only purchase fresh foods that excel. He puts pickles on that list and his bowl includes sour, half sour and pickled tomatoes.
Coming soon: When will these 10 highly anticipated restaurants open in RI? And what caused the delay?
Though Sugarman has looked to New York City's Katz Delicatessen and the Second Avenue Delicatessen for inspiration, he won't use the words "New York-style deli," he said.
"We are going to be better," he said.
Details: Maven's Delicatessen, 727 East Ave., Pawtucket, (401) 205-8560, mavensdeli.com.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Maven's Delicatessen in Pawtucket opens as RI's newest Jewish deli
