Review: What sizzles (& fizzles) at a classic Naples steakhouse celebrating 30 years - JLB
Since moving to Naples in 2015, I’ve driven by this steak spot maybe close to a thousand times, yet I never felt the urge to go. From the exterior, it looked a tad frumpy, as though it had seen better days.
But as that old cliché goes, you can’t judge a book by its cover.
It wasn’t until a restaurant blogger friend mentioned that Andre’s Steakhouse is a regular haunt for him and the carnivorous daddy cognoscenti at his kid’s private school. Though we agree to disagree about several Naples restaurants, my interest was piqued.
When pulling into Andre’s parking lot on Nov. 1 just before 6 p.m., I struggled to find a spot and started to panic because I hadn’t made a reservation.
I was escorted to a booth for two in the larger dining room in direct sightline of the gents’ loo. While scanning the wood-paneled room, decorated with hundreds of steins topping the shelf, I asked would it be possible to have that cozy cushioned booth across the aisle even though it’s for four?
My request, met with initial hesitation, was ultimately granted, probably because Naples hasn’t hit season yet.
Would madam like a drink while she waits for her plus one? Bien sur, seeing how the packed bar serving classic cocktails was bustling.
One powerful martini sent me on a nostalgia trip because my parents were steakhouse aficionados. A first visit to Gallaghers in New York City at 10 weirded me out, seeing raw beef slabs in the window. But I grew to embrace the experience, fondly remembering my dad forbidding me to order chicken at Smith and Wollensky when a petit filet would do.
As an adult, Keens and its celebrated pipes became a regular haunt for business lunches, Thanksgiving and cocktails.
Andre’s recalls that authentically retro cool, old-school vibe; not surprising because owner Andre Cottoloni is a Peter Luger’s alum who worked there during its 1980s heyday.
We met a day after JLB’s anonymous visit. He explained how his concept was a new one for Naples when he opened his restaurant, a former KFC, in 1993. He expanded his chalet-like space twice in the early years to accommodate demand, wine storage and to secure his liquor license.
At 88, Cottoloni still goes to work daily, always wearing shorts even though his waitstaff wears crisp white jackets. He is an enthusiastic advocate of our “beautiful city” after living and traveling the world and speaks eight languages.
At the door, a posted sign proclaims nearly 700,000 have eaten there since day one. Several in that tally include celebrities; photos of Judges Judy and Jerry Sheindlin and retired House Speaker John Boehner, adorn the middle dining room. A comment card referring to a post-performance visit by Sir Elton John (in quotes, so who knows?) as the best steak he ever ate is framed high above.
JLB hasn’t heard back from the star.
Other framed mementos include Jean LeBoeuf’s review from 1997.
Has it really been that long since our last visit?
What JLB ate
The concise menu offers standard chophouse fare. Our fantastic waiter, who made us feel like we were his only table and has worked there nearly 20 years, expertly guided us to the best beef for two gals to share who were torn between cuts and temperature.
Steaks ‒ served “Andre’s style” ‒ meaning they are sliced in the kitchen, are the reason to go. Our dry-aged 22-ounce “Cowboy” bone-in rib eye with just the right amount of fat was initially returned to the broiler for a bit more time under the heat. Perfectly charred, juicy and served on a sizzling plate, every bite melts in your mouth.
Sides are priced a la carte and easily serve two. A delightful dairy-free “creamed spinach” is simmered in chicken stock as are plump sliced mushrooms. Nodding to Andre's time spent living and working in Stuttgart, the German fried potato platter is best savored from the crispy edges working your way to the middle.
Two salads were serviceable and somewhat skippable. The first, a chopped variety with bacon and shrimp is more like a slaw tossed with a house-branded sauce somewhat reminiscent of Catalina dressing and lacking pizazz. The iceberg wedge with blue cheese dressing (no crumbles) and a gravy boat filled with lardon might be something you serve at home.
Though shrimp cocktail is usually considered a must-order at joints like this, the $34 price tag for six large shrimp still astounds me a week later. It’s accompanied by a different sauce that needs more oomph.
As for the finale, a dessert tray features slices of pies and cakes. Only the strudel is prepared in-house but it was sold out when we placed our order. We opted for profiteroles, splurging on a side of whipped cream for an extra buck.
Why did JLB wait decades to return?
While I can’t say for sure, I look forward to returning and reveling in Andre's easy throwback vibe. The daddy group loves it, and I think my gal pals will too.
Andre's Steakhouse
2800 Tamiami Trail N., Naples
Call: 239-263-5851
Web: andressteakhouse.com
Hours: Nightly from 5 to 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Price range: Appetizers from $9 to $34. Steaks are $56 for filet mignon; a T-bone serving four is $228. Broiled chicken, lamb, pork, fish and veal run $26 to $55.
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Volume: Contingent on who you’re seated near because Andre’s accommodates large parties. The group next to our table included tots, teens and adults enjoying a festive evening.
Also: Credit card surcharge. Full bar. Wine list runs from ho-hum Beringer to pricey Chateau Montelena and Opus One; the namesake house blends are fine and fairly priced. Reservations recommended. Additional parking in the back. Classic matchbooks with Andre's image too.
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. JLB usually goes unrecognized and always pays for her meals. Follow our critics on Facebook via BiteIntoSWFL. To connect: diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Review: Does an iconic Naples steakhouse stll charm 30 years later?
