Review: Latin restaurant's food, decor and ambience will get you dancing in your chair
Have you ever heard of the music and dance genre merengue? The signature dance rhythm is joyful with heavy percussion and a lively upbeat tempo.
“The merengue (dance) is considered part of the national identity of the Dominican community," according to the UNESCO World Heritage Organization. "It plays an active role in various aspects of people’s daily lives, from their education to social gathering and celebrations, even political campaigning.”
How brilliant to name a restaurant Merengue where one of the owners is from the Dominican Republic and the cuisine celebrates the rhythm and tempo of Caribbean and Latin American dishes.
You know how I love a theme.
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Merengue Restaurant & Catering sits in a quiet corner within Stuart’s Downtown Publix Plaza. The sign is subtle and tasteful and doesn’t shout in flashing neon. Likewise, the décor of the restaurant does not emulate the pulsing merengue dance. Rather, it is calm and serene, with blonde wood tables, cane-back chairs, a dark ceiling and graceful bamboo pendants. Plants punctuate the space, furthering tranquility.
The menu encompasses the vibrant flavors of the Dominican Republic. Appetizers include empanadas, quipe (minced meat and bulgar), Caribbean shrimp or octopus with fried green plantains, or pork belly. Entrees include mofongo (a dish made with mashed fried green plantains) and trifongo (a dish made with mashed green plantains, sweet plantains and another starch), seafood, meat or chicken dishes.
We started with one chicken empanada ($3) to share. Ground chicken, spices and gooey mozzarella cheese were enshrined in golden pastry and deep fried, yielding a crispy crust and mouthfuls of flavors. The salsa rosada dipping sauce was lyrical and creamy.
Luckily, we were still hungry because the reasonably priced specials were too inviting to miss. The $12.99 lunches are available Tuesday through Saturday and include three sides. The specials include roasted pork mojo, stewed beef or chicken, or steak with onions.
My friend ordered the fried chicken ($12.99). I ordered the Caribbean pork ribs ($12.99). We both chose sides of rice and beans, sweet plantains and a green salad. The fried chicken was marinated in magic, yielding meat that was both tender and moist. Rather than being heavily breaded and deep fried, the skin was allowed to shine. A pile of sauteed onions on top defined the flavors.
My ribs were meaty and tender and fall-off-the-bone. Two bottles of sauce on the table were available should we choose. One was labeled “mild” and the other was apparently not mild. We didn’t add the sauces because the flavors of the unadorned food were abundant and satisfying. The large serving of savory rice and beans and sweet plantains rounded out the dish.
I loved the chopped green salad too. Cool cuts of lettuce were blended with a generous serving of cilantro and a sweet vinaigrette.
At Merengue, the service is attentive and helpful. They do add a small service charge to the bill and charge a fee for credit cards versus cash.
At the restaurant, the background music is Latin but restrained, which was a good thing because, becoming aware of the music, my lunch partner began moving her shoulders to the beat. I feared that she would jump up, grab the waiter and commence the rhythmic swaying, hip-moving dance called the merengue. Lucky for all of us, she did not.
Merengue Restaurant & Catering
Cuisine: Latin
Address: 790 S.W. Federal Highway, Stuart
Phone: 772-266-8945
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday; closed Monday
Alcohol: Beer and wine
Online: dominicanrestaurantstuart.com
Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com
This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: Merengue Restaurant in Stuart has Caribbean food
