Review: Indian restaurant spices are ambrosial, and you pick heat level from 0 to 10

It’s apparent when you open the door. It might even be apparent before you open the door, but I didn’t linger outside very long.

The enchanting scents of curry, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, cloves and the secret sauce that is Indian cuisine are warm and welcoming and infuse the room at Bolly Twist Taste of India.

The restaurant is fairly compact, but surrounded by windows that lend an openness. A section of decorative ceiling tiles hangs overhead, perhaps with sound-muting properties as well as style. The walls are paprika-colored, and the booths and chairs are light wood.

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At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the room is infused with the enchanting scents of curry, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, cloves and the secret sauce that is Indian cuisine. The restaurant is warm and welcoming.
At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the room is infused with the enchanting scents of curry, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric, cloves and the secret sauce that is Indian cuisine. The restaurant is warm and welcoming.

We were seated quickly and handed a thick, leather-bound menu embellished with an image of the Taj Mahal. We questioned the hostess about some of the menu items we didn’t understand. She laughed about a few of the typos she said she knew needed fixing. It mattered not to us.

The menu is all-inclusive, with every Indian dish you could ever want such as paneer, vindaloo, gobi masala saag, curry, kofta, etc. There are plenty of vegetarian options, but lamb, goat, chicken, seafood and fish choices are available among the diverse dishes. Each menu item is identified with its traditional Indian name, but is also clearly described.

We started with paneer pakora ($7.99), which is homemade cheese fritters that were crispy fried in chickpea flour and served with a pink sauce. The fritters were hot, and the cheese was melty and gooey. They were delicious.

At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the paneer pakora is homemade cheese fritters that are crispy-fried in chickpea flour and served with a pink sauce. They were hot, and the cheese was melty and gooey.
At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the paneer pakora is homemade cheese fritters that are crispy-fried in chickpea flour and served with a pink sauce. They were hot, and the cheese was melty and gooey.

A fan favorite, we had to order garlic naan ($6), a soft flatbread freckled with char, shimmering with garlic and butter and served with raita (a salty and sweet yogurt sauce). We also ordered cheese naan ($6), a fragrant, supple, warm flatbread served with chutney (a sweet, tangy relish-type sauce.) The naan was a gentle starter to the robust flavors that were coming in our entrees.

It is tempting to want to try all of the wonderful appetizers such as samosas, shrimp coconut, gobi Manchurian (deep-fried cauliflower), and Bombay calamari.

One of us ordered from the tandoori dish category: chicken tikka ($19.99). The chunks of meat were coated in ground spices — garlic, onion, cayenne, ginger and garam masala — then grilled. The flavors were rich, spicy and booming, which is the unfailing attraction of Indian cuisine. One can regulate the heat level from 0 to 10, the latter being the amount of hot that will likely blow off the top of your head. Or, at least, get your attention.

At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the garlic naan is a soft, warm flatbread freckled with char, shimmering with garlic and butter, and served with raita (a salty and sweet yogurt sauce.)
At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the garlic naan is a soft, warm flatbread freckled with char, shimmering with garlic and butter, and served with raita (a salty and sweet yogurt sauce.)

Another of us tried the malai kofta ($16.99). Crispy, savory croquettes of vegetables, cheese, nuts and raisins were dunked in a bright, creamy curry sauce.

The hubby ordered lamb vindaloo ($21.99), which is labeled with two chili peppers; therefore, the heat cannot be regulated. He enjoys spicy dishes, and this was full of lamb, potatoes and intense flavors without being mouth-numbing.

I ordered mango shrimp curry ($22.99), which was a spice-bombed sauce simmering with fresh mangoes, coconut and curry leaves. The heat level was three and arrived gently and quietly.

At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the lamb vindaloo is spicy and full of lamb, potatoes and intense flavors without being mouth-numbing.
At Bolly Twist Taste of India in Stuart, the lamb vindaloo is spicy and full of lamb, potatoes and intense flavors without being mouth-numbing.

At Bolly Twist Taste of India, all senses are teased. From the moment you walk in the door, the aromas of spices and house-made Indian cooking draw you in. The smiling staff and aesthetics of the décor charm and welcome. The menu fascinates and appeals to your appetite. And the flavors and textures are ambrosial, delectable, and tantalizing.

Bolly Twist has mastered the art of Indian cuisine.

Bolly Twist Taste of India

  • Cuisine: Indian

  • Address: 5563 S.E. Federal Highway, Stuart

  • Phone: 772-210-6793

  • Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. then 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday; closed Monday

  • Alcohol: Beer and wine

  • Online: BollyTwist.com

Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com

This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: Bolly Twist Taste of India Indian food in Stuart