Review: French-American restaurant in 1920s building has Prohibition-era speakeasy vibe

Lucie Regensdorf
·3 min read

If a jewelry box was magically transformed into a restaurant, akin to a scene from "Beauty and the Beast," that restaurant would be named La Grande Martier in downtown Stuart.

The auspicious entry begins in a breezeway adorned with sparkling lights and bistro-style tables and chairs. The approach has a speakeasy vibe, which is also a part of the building’s 1920s history, and I envisioned being stopped at a door with a tiny window into which I would recite a secret password in order to gain access.

Besides the Prohibition Era drinking establishment, La Grande Martier is the former home of a modern post office, a haberdashery, a shoeshine stand and a farmer’s market. It may or may not be haunted.

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The fluffy brie and mushroom omelette at La Grande Martier in Stuart was filled with a generous portion of sauteed mushrooms, chopped tomatoes, and slices of brie.
The fluffy brie and mushroom omelette at La Grande Martier in Stuart was filled with a generous portion of sauteed mushrooms, chopped tomatoes, and slices of brie.

This historical property is now home to a wood-paneled bar at the front, furnished with ruby-red seated stools and palm-blade ceiling fans. There are several spacious dining areas ornamented with crystal chandeliers, some with vibrant jewel-tone upholstered chairs, and others with strategically placed dramatic silky drapes. All with a welcoming exuberance.

The bar at the back of the restaurant — a speakeasy can never have too many bars — invites you to sit down with a Great Gatsby character and sip something classy in a chilled goblet.

We arrived for lunch and learned that breakfast was available until the dinner hour. The French-inspired menu has Coquilles St. Jacques, baked brie en croûte, avo croissant, cinnamon roll Belgian waffles, build-your-own omelets, and a variety of salads and sandwiches. The brunch menu offers a variety of mimosas, including blackberry, pineapple, strawberry and grapefruit as well as special coffees and teas.

Butternut squash soup and dip were featured specials available, so we tried the dip. It was delicious. Pureed sweet butternut squash was baked with gooey cheese in a ramekin, then garnished with crunchy almonds and served with toasted sourdough crostini.

If a jewelry box was magically transformed into a restaurant, akin to a scene from Beauty and the Beast, that restaurant would be named La Grande Martier in downtown Stuart.
If a jewelry box was magically transformed into a restaurant, akin to a scene from Beauty and the Beast, that restaurant would be named La Grande Martier in downtown Stuart.

My friend loves breakfast food so she ordered the brie and mushroom omelet ($13), which can also be reoriented into a wrap. The fluffy omelet was filled with a generous portion of sauteed mushrooms, chopped tomato and brie. The cheese was not completely melted, so it wasn’t as creamy as it could have been, but the airiness of the eggs and tender mushrooms made the texture very pleasing. The dish was served with a side of fresh fruit.

I went with the lunch option and ordered a Buffalo chicken ranch sandwich ($18). A crispy fried chicken breast — tossed in a spicy, tangy Buffalo sauce — was topped with melted cheddar cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, slices of red onion, and a drizzle of velvety ranch dressing. The burger-style roll was soft but sturdy enough to handle all of the textures and range of flavors that this sandwich offered. The chicken was perfectly cooked, and topping it with crisp bacon was the perfect complement to the hot sauce and cool ranch.

Unfortunately, the side of cole slaw was dry and flavorless.

We did not partake in dessert. It may have required us to hide our identities. But that day’s selection included Key lime pie, mango cheesecake, flourless chocolate torte, and crème brulee.

The love that went into transforming the amazing space that has become La Grande Martier is apparent in every room and every feature of this beautiful restaurant. I look forward to returning for dinner to see this vintage chic restaurant alive with candlelight.

It already shines as a dazzling jewelry box with a grand ballroom-style speakeasy, creative French-inspired menu, great service, and no secret password required.

La Grande Martier at Post Office Arcade

  • Cuisine: French-American

  • Address: 23 S.W. Osceola St., Stuart

  • Phone: 772-600-5025

  • Hours: 11 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Monday; 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday-Saturday; 10 a.m. to midnight Sunday; closed Tuesday-Wednesday

  • Alcohol: Full bar

  • Online: grandemartier.com

Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com.

This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: La Grande Martier is in historic Stuart building