Review: Fish and chips hit trifecta at waterfront restaurant specializing in seafood

Often considered Britain’s national dish, fish and chips is readily found on the menus of so many of our Treasure Coast eateries. England touts cod as the fish of choice for this entrée, but here on the Treasure Coast, you'll find additional mild, tender fish varieties as well.

While it’s important to consider the quality of the fish, many say the real trick is in the batter. Others say you can have excellent fish and batter, but it’s the oil — cleanliness and temperature — that is key. My guess is each is important.

I have been served fish bathed — not once, not twice, but sometimes even three times — in heavy, clumpy batter before being deep fried. In those cases, it looks like an enormous serving of fish falling over the plate. Unfortunately, when eating it, the coating shatters away and the actual fish serving is not nearly as impressive.

Don’t worry about any of that at Blackfins Riverfront Grill, located in Capt Hiram’s Resort in Sebastian. Blackfins absolutely aces all three: fish, batter and oil.

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At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian,
At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian,

Diners' choice of fish is delicately dipped in a savory beer batter and fried, rendering a light, crispy and flavorful finish for Blackfins fish and chips ($18). I chose moist, flaky mahi with fried potatoes (chips) and tangy coleslaw.  Brilliant, as the Brits would say!

One of my guests had a fried cod sandwich ($15) prepared in the same delicious batter and served on a bun with lettuce, tomato and onion. Shamefully, but perhaps understandably, we were both caught talking with our mouths full!

Our table’s third diner ordered stuffed flounder ($26) and was initially disappointed when it was served. The seemingly tiny entree of fish was dwarfed by the large baked potato. Our unflappable server, Matt D., sensed the disappointment and offered to bring something else instead.

At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian, thin fillets of flounder receive a stuffing of crab and are rolled up tightly before being perfectly cooked.
At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian, thin fillets of flounder receive a stuffing of crab and are rolled up tightly before being perfectly cooked.

But after his initial chagrin, my guest was happy he stayed with his original choice. Thin fillets of flounder were cooked beautifully after receiving a stuffing of crab and rolled up tightly. Frankly, just a little more crab stuffing would have created a more impressive overall perception, but the taste was above and beyond reproach.

An order of crab toast ($12) had been a lovely appetizer for our party of three, providing two pieces of yummy crispy, crabby, cheesy toast per person.

The ambiance at Blackfins Riverfront Grill is laid-back and very Florida casual with a large, open-air, Indian River Lagoon-front dining area boasting magnificent water views. On this stifling Sunday early evening, we chose seating in the smaller air-conditioned space with televisions to catch a game.

At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian,
At Blackfins Riverfront Grill in Sebastian,

Capt Hiram’s resort has bars, beaches and bands if you wish to have a drink before or stick around after. There’s even a little shop called the "Boatique" where I’ve picked up a silly little gift or two.

Blackfins Riverfront Grill

Maribeth Renne dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at maribeth.d.renne@gmail.com

This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: Blackfins in Capt Hirams is on Sebastian waterfront