Review: Family-run Italian restaurant hits trifecta of great food, service and atmosphere

From the moment you walk through the door of The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, you feel special and appreciated. This is a family business.

Jen is omnipresent in the dining room, stopping to smile, laugh and share stories with all her “friends.” Luis, when not in the kitchen with Chef Joseph, circulates among the diners, making sure they are pleased. Their son, Makani, who proudly revealed that he was “made” in Hawaii, was our waiter.

All of us have been to places where the greetings are stiff and memorized or where the staff has been told what to say but really doesn’t care about the answer. At The Grove, the reception rings genuinely and scrupulously friendly.

All things food: New restaurants, reviews, inspections & best bets

At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, the decor is comfortable with dark teal walls, light rustic paneling and large framed art on the walls. The tables and chairs are wood tone with black leather seats and booths.
At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, the decor is comfortable with dark teal walls, light rustic paneling and large framed art on the walls. The tables and chairs are wood tone with black leather seats and booths.

The decor is comfortable with dark teal walls, light rustic paneling, and large framed art on the walls. The tables and chairs are wood tone with black leather seats and booths. The evening we were there, several specials were available, which could be ordered fixed price or a la carte.

We ordered from the appetizer portion of that menu and shared pan seared hearts of palm ($17). Four tender hearts were arranged on a bed of romesco sauce and topped with a lightly dressed chiffonade of greens. I have mostly eaten hearts of palm raw, but the sauteing yielded a tender, mild flavor alongside the tangy sauce made with tomatoes and roasted peppers.

My sister-in-law ordered lamb Bolognese ($33), which can be prepared with beef instead ($28). This dish was a synchrony of rich ground meat and creamy tomato sauce with a dollop of ricotta cheese, all cradled in a mass of large ribbons of pappardelle. The flavors were amazing.

At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, the pan seared hearts of palm appetizer had four tender hearts arranged on a bed of romesco sauce topped with a lightly dressed chiffonade of greens.
At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, the pan seared hearts of palm appetizer had four tender hearts arranged on a bed of romesco sauce topped with a lightly dressed chiffonade of greens.

The mister ordered penne alla vodka with chicken ($27), which he really enjoyed. The sauce was light, tomatoey and pink-hued thanks to the cream and the vodka. The chicken had a light grilled crust and was piled on top of the pasta. At his request, the waiter crowned the dish with fresh grated Parmesan cheese.

I was not in the mood for a hefty tomato sauce that evening, so my choice was shrimp Francese ($31), which can be served with chicken instead ($24). The shrimp was lightly coated and sauteed with loads of mushrooms in a lemon, butter and white wine sauce. This was exactly what I was craving: tangy, bright flavors and perfectly cooked shrimp on spaghetti.

The friendly folks at The Grove persuaded us to try dessert. We were planning to share but couldn’t agree, so we ordered two. The tiramisu ($8) was very creamy and served in a stemmed martini glass. Yeya’s Cuban flan ($8), which was an unusual choice for an Italian restaurant, was inspired by Luis’ mother. It was a superb round of velvety, custardy, sweetness bathed in caramel sauce.

At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, Yeya's Cuban flan was a superb round of velvety, custardy, sweetness bathed in caramel sauce. An unusual offering for an Italian restaurant, it was inspired by Chef Luis' mother.
At The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound, Yeya's Cuban flan was a superb round of velvety, custardy, sweetness bathed in caramel sauce. An unusual offering for an Italian restaurant, it was inspired by Chef Luis' mother.

The family is very passionate about their restaurant. They told us about their wine club, wine-paired dinners, and other events they sponsor throughout the year.

Obviously, I have not dined in every restaurant on the Treasure Coast, but I believe you would be hard-pressed to find a friendlier, warmer, more welcoming dining experience. All the staff seem to be having a good time which, in turn, results in an enjoyable experience for the visitors. Quality food, a pleasant atmosphere, and exceptional service is the magic sauce that defines The Grove Cucina & Wine.

The Grove Cucina & Wine

  • Cuisine: Italian

  • Address: 8815 S.E. Bridge Road, Hobe Sound

  • Phone: 772-402-5410

  • Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday-Monday

  • Alcohol: Full bar

  • Online: Website, Facebook

Lucie Regensdorf dines anonymously at the expense of TCPalm for #WhatToDoIn772. Contact her at Lucie@theloveofcooking.com

This article originally appeared on Treasure Coast Newspapers: Restaurant review: The Grove Cucina & Wine in Hobe Sound Italian food