Review: El Fogon Caribbean Grill serving up tasty authentic Latin dishes

CANTON − Just a few weeks after returning from our Caribbean vacation, my family was jonesing for anything that would take us back to our happy place.

So when it was my turn to do my first restaurant review, I knew exactly where I to head − El Fogon Caribbean Grill at 918 Cherry Ave. NE.

While the exterior of the building didn't offer much to admire, it had plenty of parking. Inside, however, was welcoming, with tables reminiscent of your grandma's kitchen table and pieces of decor that pay homage to the owners' Dominican heritage.

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Owners Adalberto Molina and his wife, Carolina, moved to Ohio for a fresh start. Molina got a job at Case Farms and soon he and his wife began making food for the employees. It started with a handful of people grabbing a plate, but quickly became service for 30 to 40 a day.

"I was working there at the same time," Molina recalled. He had the idea to open a restaurant, a place to gather with family and friends.

Molina thought it would take some time for the place to catch on but customers have embraced it.

The Friday night I visited, people trickled in and out picking up takeout while others sat down at tables for a meal. We were in the minority as English speakers. Friends greeted Molina and his team, and others that stopped by, in their native tongue.

"I didn't think there were many Dominicans in the area, but there are lots," Molina added with a chuckle.

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While the language could be a barrier for some, the menu is listed in Spanish and English, along with photos of some dishes. While some of the descriptions left questions, our server handled them all − and I had a lot.

From dishes with pork, chicken and beef to seafood and even vegetarian dishes, the menu was filled with flavorful options. Molina wanted his menu to be a mix of Dominican favorites and dishes from other Latin locations, including Bandeja paisa, a Columbian dish featuring chicharron, rice and beans, sausage and fried egg.

Through our travels and our love of food, many of the dishes were familiar to us. But those unfamiliar with Latin delicacies might need to ask more questions.

You can order from the menu or order from the "buffet." While not a buffet in the traditional sense, it is a selection of dishes that change daily and are offered as ready-to-go meals for guests who stop in during a lunch break to grab a quick bite.

The Friday evening we were at the restaurant, the buffet offered oxtail, beef and roasted chicken. I opted for the oxtail, with a side of fried rice with corn and pinto beans ($18).

Molina said while the main dishes change, white rice and beans are always on the buffet. They switch up the flavored rice daily and also offer pasta or potato salad.

The oxtail was tender and the sauce was flavorful with a tinge of heat that didn't leave you reaching for your water.

Word to the wise, oxtail has a large bone and can leave you wanting more meat. I enjoyed mixing the flavorful sauce with my rice and beans.

My husband, always the adventurous one, selected a whole fried fish ($17). The entire fish arrived at the table with an eye staring at me. He selected a side of tostones − slices of unripe, green plantains that are fried, smashed and fried again until crisp. So good! Other side choices include papas fritas (french fries) and a variety of rice with beans.

Whole fish is often found in Caribbean islands and usually, all of the fish including the crispy fins and the eyeballs are eaten leaving just the bones on the plate. And my husband did just that.

We also tried the chicken pinchos − a skewered meat and vegetable dish popular all over the Caribbean. El Fogon offered chicken, or a trio of shrimp, chicken and beef. Our kabobs were filled with well-seasoned chicken pieces with a kick and onions and peppers that were cooked through but still crisp − a win in my book. Each end of the skewer featured a grilled cherry tomato that melted in your mouth. With the portion sizes, the $16 price tag was reasonable. We took plenty of food home and ate the leftovers for days.

My 10-year-old selected beef fajitas and white rice ($15). The large slices of steak were cooked perfectly and once again the vegetables were superb. One note, this dish was not served with tortillas.

Each entree − except the oxtail − was accompanied by a salad with red onions, colored peppers and tomatoes. My husband said he tasted a nice oil-based dressing. The salad's vegetables were fresh and flavorable.

We also tried boiled yuca − a root vegetable similar to a potato that is a staple in many tropical locations. The yuca ($5) was topped with pickled onions. Molina said diners also can get fired yuca.

A secret sauce created by Carolina was served with many of the dishes. Her husband said she took a sauce served in a restaurant where she worked in the Dominican Republic and added a few things. He wouldn't share its ingredients, but said everyone asks for it.

In addition to the main dishes, dessert includes a Tres Leches cake and cornbread.

Since opening in February in a former Kentucky Fried Chicken, Molina has steadily been adding items to the menu including arepas, a corn griddle cake that is stuffed with a variety of items including pork, vegetables and cheese, as well a Chinese rice dish with a Dominican flair that has shrimp, chicken and pork, rice, spices served with two eggs. He has also added a whole friend red snapper.

He expects a new menu with these additions will be available in the next few weeks. The restaurant has a full bar after recently receiving its liquor license.

El Fogon is open from noon to 10 p.m. Sunday, Monday and Wednesday; and noon to 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. It is closed Tuesdays. The restaurant offers takeout, dine-in and delivery within a 10-minute radius.

El Fogon Caribbean Grill

Taste: Food was flavorful, fresh and plated well. 5/5 stars

Ambiance: While the outside could use a little work, the inside was welcoming with touches of the owners' Dominican heritage. 4/5 stars

Service: Our waitress was attentive and answered all of our questions.  5/5 stars

Concept: El Fogon offered a variety of authentic Latin American and Caribbean dishes from the Dominican Republic, Columbia and Venezuela. 4/5 stars

Price: Prices seemed in line with similar spots. 4/5 stars

Overall rating: 4.4 stars

This article originally appeared on The Independent: Review: El Fogon Caribbean Grill satisfies with authentic Latin dishes