Restaurants: Neo-bistro debuts in Naples, Italian at Bayfront plans tossed, chef move
Because so many things in life can be tied to a Seinfeld episode, this week is no exception.
Remember “The Bizzaro Jerry” man-hands episode? By carrying a fake photo of his dead fiancée in his wallet, George is granted access to a trendy Meatpacking District nightclub populated by models. When he takes disbelieving Jerry there, lo and behold, it’s a butcher shop.
Locally, we have a new hybrid concept too incorporating Naples' first all-natural wine shop that's received many accolades over the years and a cozy neo-bistro.
What's a neo-bistro you might be asking?
They're the opposite of fussy Michelin-star restaurants. Created in Paris by next-gen chefs, the concept is also popular in London, Montreal, somewhat in Los Angeles and Tokyo. Sometimes it's known as bistronomy.
As Nirvana sang, come as you are. The dress code and setting are tres casual. The food and wine? Handcrafted and mindful, just as Mother Nature intended.
Going au naturel
Proprietors Peter Rizzo and Ming Yee launched their organic food and wine collaboration: Natural Wines Naples by day, in the evening, the space becomes Bar Nat, a scratch neo-bistro.
It opened Sept. 14.
If their names sound familiar, Rizzo’s lauded wine store with the same name was previously located at Liberty Plaza. He has been credited in this newspaper and elsewhere as being Florida’s first purveyor of all-natural wines.
Yee, a Seagate alum, was chef-owner at Café Nutrients, his vegan “passion project.” He grew up in the restaurant biz and learned to cook when his parents Sue and Eddie opened Tokyo Sushi, “Naples’ first or second sushi restaurant.”
They were mutual customers of each other’s businesses, sharing a philosophy that reimagines approachability in dining via a pared-back space, casual service and their “abiding focus on freshness and quality ingredients” in wine and foods grown by farmers who use organic and biodynamic methods.
The food component this go-round is not vegan and its menu changes frequently if not daily. Guests are presented a card with the day’s offerings ranging from snacks and small plates to salads, the entrée du jour and desserts. Simply enter your name and check off the boxes of what you want to order.
As for the wines, accessing these mostly European hard-to-find gems (with some from Chile and the “New California” movement) isn’t expensive: flights of four to five selections are $15-ish and by the glass, $12 to $15. Bottles on the retail shelves offer many under $30, but when dining, incur a $25 corkage fee for the first bottle, $20 for the second.
The intimate setting has approximately 30 seats including a communal table. Standing out in the space’s subdued décor are topographical maps of various wine regions.
“I want people to understand wine is so much more than just a grape. The maps help people understand more about the different soils and climates and why certain grapes are native to certain areas. It’s not like California where anyone can grow anything anywhere and get away with it,” said Rizzo.
A shaded patio surrounded by pots of fresh herbs for al fresco dining is in the works. Parking is located in the back.
Wine store hours: Wednesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Dining hours: Thursday and Friday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Saturday from 6 to 11 p.m.
(3080 Tamiami Trail N., Naples; 239-919-8732; natnatnaples.com)
More about Peter Rizzo: Healthy wine? Naples store leads the revolution back to naturally produced wines
Related: Vine Files: ‘Natural’ wines hit Naples
Related: Five ways to discover new wines
Bayfront Italian a no-go
Ambrosi & Sons’ Bayfront restaurant is not happening.
Proprietor Rudy Ambrosi is still planning one and is looking for other locations in Naples. “There’s not a lot around,” he said. A possible option is converting some of the space within his 12,000-square-foot property on Domestic Avenue.
His family’s specialty shop of Italian delicacies was the source for the best thing I tasted last week: Pistacchiosa, a super smooth nut butter comprising Sicilian pistachios and extra virgin olive oil for $18.
Via email, Bayfront boss Kevin Stoneburner said he’ll share an announcement about a replacement for what was most recently Southern Kitchen & Raw Bar soon.
(3910 Domestic Ave., Naples; 239-304-9782; ambrosiandsons.com)
Chef move
Wilderness Country Club appointed Daniel Fein as its new executive chef. Fein previously worked for Cameron Mitchell Restaurants in Michigan, Ohio and most recently on Fifth Avenue South as Del Mar’s sous chef. Fein is a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America.
Send scoops, news, deals & food events for editorial consideration by Friday at 5 p.m. to diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Naples restaurants: Natural neo-bistro debut, Bayfront Italian a no-go
