Restaurants: 2 new in Naples, 3 chef changes including a local Food Network cheftestant

Local restaurateurs are shaking things up this summer. A Peruvian restaurant in East Naples has a new owner who's also the top chef there. The town's (arguably) most famous punk-rock pizza purveyor trades barbecue at Bayfront for a new brew-focused concept. His chef from another venture is now at the new spot.

And we have three more chef moves making news at high-end hot spots in Naples.

Chef moves

Old Vines Supper Club’s top toque, managing director and partner Brooke Kravetz hired Daniel Swofford as executive chef for her next and new Mercato location, which takes over TooJay’s long-vacated space and is expected to open in September.

Swofford most recently held the same position at The Cave Bistro and Wine Bar, where Kravetz formerly did double duty cheffing and serving as general manager.

Why the move?

“A major draw” was the gas-connected kitchen in a large space with new equipment. “I can be a little freer to use my full range of techniques, which was not possible in the last space.”

Despite the name, Old Vines Supper Club is not private or members-only. The terrific Davis Boulevard spot focuses on rotating prix-fixe tasting menus and wine-pairing dinners in an intimate setting. At Mercato, Swofford is working on a "mainstream menu" structure, categorized with a variety of appetizers and small plates, entrees and desserts. Very luxe seasonal ingredients and personalized service are common ties between the two locations.

Earlier in his career, Swofford cheffed in New York City at The Modern, then Eleven Madison Park (the meticulous restaurant known for its influence on Hulu’s The Bear) before it went vegan. Following John Fraser's Dovetail, he headed west for a co-executive chef position at Willamette Valley’s sole Forbes four-star The Painted Lady.

Swofford's replacement at The Cave is noted private chef David Rashty, for whom the kitchen size and equipment is no big deal. He's cooked on yachts measuring a "third of the size" of the kitchen he now helms. He also loves the convection stove for its accuracy with temperatures, especially with sous-vide preparations.

Rashty is somewhat of a Japanophile. He’s worked for the legendary Masayoshi Takayama (whose omakase menu starts at $750) as an executive sous chef in New York City. Through The Gohan Society, he studied that country’s cuisine through its culinary cultural exchange program in Kanazawa.

As such, subtle notes are imbued via yuzu and kombu for hamachi crudo, scallops, black grouper, tuna and his take on Jurgielewicz Farm-sourced duck. The new menu is a work in progress.

Other examples include crab dashi gelee and pork belly with sesame-chili glaze for a Bourbon-pairing dinner at 6 p.m. July 19, priced at $99 before tax and gratuity.

Olga Khorunzha is a Certified Sommelier CMS and The Cave’s general manager whose suggested wine pairings play a huge role at this Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence restaurant. She has “quite the challenge” given the Japanese influence; expect to see more white wines and Syrahs suggested.

Locally, Rashty’s previous stints include The French and Jack’s Farm-to-Fork in Fort Myers. He also served as Babcock Ranch’s executive chef. He is maintaining the private chef staffing business, which took off during the pandemic.

(2343 Vanderbilt Beach Road at Galleria Shoppes; 239-513-0095; thecavenaples.com)

Pastry chef of Food Network fame leaves Naples

Hamilton Harbor Yacht Club's pastry chef Sean Dwyer, who was tapped for a star-making turn on season two's Spring Baking Championship: Easter airing on Food Network in 2022, is bidding adieu to Naples. His new employer is Cache Creek Casino Resort in Brooks, California's Capay Valley.

Modern Peruvian from El Basque boss

John Colón, who helms JLB-favorite El Basque Vin & Pintxo Bar in Bonita Springs, is the new owner and executive chef at Espíritu, which replaces La Cuisine, the Peruvian restaurant at Naples Towne Center. He is no longer affiliated with Bodega Olé.

His plan is to slowly modernize the menu with prettier plating, saying he "can't wait to put his spin on it." The decor will be refreshed too: white linen tablecloths and artwork and paintings by his mother-in-law Barbara Fink are already in place. Lightening the color scheme with fresh paint is next on his to-do list.

"I want to take my New York flair, bohemian flair, and combine those with my Four Seasons experience of high standards."

(3861 Tamiami Trail E., Naples; 239-285-3924; the espiritunaples.com website is under development)

LowBrow's little brother at Bayfront

Chris Jones of LowBrow fame made a business decision to replace Industry Beer & BBQ at Bayfront with Pizza Jones, his new tap-room concept where thin and crispy tavern pizzas modeled on those found in New Hampshire and Boston are crafted to pair with all things beer. In addition to a wall spanning 72 varieties on tap, cans and bottles of brew supplement the selections.

Jones said, “Barbecue is not a priority for Naples residents.”

Top spots: Naples, Fort Myers restaurants among OpenTable's Top 100 in US for outdoor dining

Jones commissary kitchen on Old 41 Road near Bonita also sold barbecue. It’s now a Pizza Jones too.

The temporary menu is a work in progress and debuted on June 8. Currently, items range from $8 to $12. A recipe for “Lil Bones,” which look like fries but are pizza crusts mixed with Parmesan-queso drizzle topped with pepperoncini plus a side of marinara sauce, was being tested during our visit.

They are habit-forming.

Jones transferred his team from the now-closed Dave Portnoy-favorite Industry Pizza on Pine Ridge Road. Eventually, Pizza Jones will have a similar menu to Industry's, but the bread-making process is different because of new kitchen equipment.

The equipment includes a gleaming oven from Sweden with temperatures that can be customized within each of its three compartments, ranging as high as 932 degrees to achieve results mimicking a coal-burning oven.

“We want the food to be crave-able.”

Jones is also applying for a full liquor license, given Florida's recently revised square footage and seating requirements.

(449 Bayfront Place, Naples; 239-331-4160; website in development, find it on Facebook)

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This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Naples restaurant news: Newish concepts; chef changes at 2 spots