Phoenix chef Lori Hashimoto of Hana shares the ‘importance of family, food and tradition’
Being a role model may not have been part of her plan. But after earning nearly every accolade in what has traditionally been a male-dominated industry, chef Lori Hashimoto, co-owner of Hana Japanese Eatery, has arguably become one.
Hashimoto’s creations have garnered her and her establishment local and national praise, including a James Beard semifinalist nod in 2022, and, beyond accolades, her cooking has garnered her restaurant a loyal following.
She credits her family, who have deep culinary roots. Hashimoto’s mother was a culinary school teacher, and her father Ed, who was placed in a Japanese-American internment camp in Arizona with his family at the age of 10, was a long time commercial vegetable farmer who often took his curious and hardworking daughter along on deliveries throughout the Valley and encouraged her to get her hands in the soil right alongside him.
In honor of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, Hashimoto shares how her heritage has influenced her cooking, how a kitchen can be a liberating space and why AAPI representation in the culinary world matters.
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As a James Beard Award semifinalist, you are in rare air. Why is representation in this space important?
It’s an honor I think about daily. The representation of AAPI heritage is important so future generations can see themselves represented in a space that celebrates inclusiveness and allows all cultures to celebrate their heritage through food.
What aspects of your heritage do you aim to highlight in your restaurant?
The importance of family, food and tradition and how it unites us all.
As a third-generation Arizonan, how have both southwestern flavors and your Asian-American heritage informed your cooking?
It’s been humbling to be a part of representing Japanese cuisine as it’s gained popularity among southwestern cuisine. It’s allowed me to experiment with ingredients I may not have thought of in the traditional sense. For example, squash blossom tempura is delicious this time of year.
Your father was a farmer, your mother a cooking school teacher and your stepfather an executive chef. How did they influence you?
It’s allowed me to understand how different generations influence a style of food and how these influences can be combined with modern techniques and ideas. I’ve learned over the years that creating new takes on something can be liberating as long as you adhere to the fundamental basics and the soul of the dish.
I just consider myself on the trail and learning along the way every day. Now in the age of social media, we have the ability to introduce food in a way that engages diners and inspires them to try something new.
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How do you suggest people celebrate Phoenix's AAPI chefs, not just in May, but all year round?
There seem to be more AAPI chefs in the Valley than ever before, all working hard to create inspiring meals reflecting their creativity and heritage, so please support them whenever you can.
I’d like for people to try and hit those mom-and-pop places that really give you a taste of what the love of their culture is about… and a true appreciation of the AAPI heritage.
Visit Hana Japanese Eatery
Chef Lori Hashimoto pushes cultural boundaries by employing female sushi chefs for what has traditionally been seen as a male role. They consistently turn out some of the best sushi in the Valley. Don't miss the chance to try other Japanese specialties beyond sushi, like soba noodles, lobster tempura and takoyaki octopus dumplings.
Details: 5524 N. Seventh Ave., Phoenix, 602-973-1238, hanajapaneseeatery.com.
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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Hana Japanese Eatery chef Lori Hashimoto on new AAPI traditions
