'These people care about each other.' Dining at Ukrainian church leaves an unforgettable impression

Alysha Witwicki
·2 min read
St. Michael's Ukrainian Catholic Church member Nadiya Kavyuk, second from right, stands by as parishioners serve themselves traditional Ukrainian dishes she prepared. Irene Lesak, right, president of the church's sisterhood, takes in donations. Homemade food is served every Sunday after Mass.
St. Michael's Ukrainian Catholic Church member Nadiya Kavyuk, second from right, stands by as parishioners serve themselves traditional Ukrainian dishes she prepared. Irene Lesak, right, president of the church's sisterhood, takes in donations. Homemade food is served every Sunday after Mass.

One can’t talk to Ukrainians about their food and culture without hearing about the war in Ukraine. Everyone I interviewed for this article was born there. And they still have family and friends there. To them, this is personal despite thousands of miles of separation.

Listening to their stories, I felt helpless and heartbroken for what they’re going through. They’re not just worried about the safety of the people they know; they’re in anguish over what’s happening to their beloved country.

Previously, I hadn’t spent time with anyone from Ukraine. Being able to talk with them in person, I saw the worry in their eyes but also their welcoming spirit. Their resilience and their strength. Their extreme kindness and love.

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When I visited the basement of St. Michael's Ukrainian Catholic Church in Milwaukee after Mass one Sunday for coffee and snacks, the parishioners welcomed me with open arms.

It was like a big family gathering. Everyone was talking, hugging, laughing, in spite of the terror going on on the other side of the world. The parishioners care about each other and even strangers (as I saw firsthand).

I was expecting coffee and store-bought coffeecake after Mass. What I saw instead was a massive spread filled with homemade Ukrainian food. Some I recognized (varenyky, or pierogi), and others were new to me (like kanapa, their version of an open-faced sandwich).

Nadiya Kavyuk of Franklin greeted me by giving me a plate and telling me to eat and enjoy myself before sitting down and talking with me for this article. I wholeheartedly believe that food is what connects us all. But I got to see how Ukrainians use it as a way to show love and compassion.

As I talked with Nadiya, I couldn’t stop complimenting her food. Everything was just delicious. As my first introduction to Ukrainian cuisine, all these homemade dishes were the treat of a lifetime.

Her response?

“Everyone here cooks well. It was just my turn!” (The members of the church's sisterhood take turns cooking for the congregation each week).

But even while talking about food, the topic would inevitably come back to the war.

Chef Vasyl Lemberskyy summed it up.

“Whatever happens with my people and my country … people say it’s not their problem, but it’s all of our problem. Ukraine is not just food. Family is important, and we never attack anyone. The people are so generous. It’s where everyone is welcome.”

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This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Dining at Ukrainian church in Milwaukee leaves a lasting impression