This North Jersey lunch spot serves the state's most unconventional sandwiches

Sloppy Joes and Italian subs — Jersey's got a million delis with the same two specials. On a residential corner in Nutley, though, a local sandwich joint is thinking outside of the (lunch)box. From Lamb Merguez on semolina to Duck Rouladeo on panelle, Mike's Pasta and Sandwich Shoppe is serving hoagies, melts and panini that are as unconventional as they are delicious.

Opening high-end Mike's Pasta and Sandwich Shoppe in casual digs

Mike Cosenza and Mike Carrino were both fine dining chefs before opening Mike's Pasta and Sandwich Shoppe in 2019. While working in restaurants, the guys had some creative freedom, but not nearly as much as they would have liked.

"When I was a chef working in restaurants," Cosenza said, "I always pushed the envelope as much as the audience would let me, but it had to be within reason. I had to hit that balance between creativity and, ultimately, what would sell."

At fine dining restaurants, he explained, guests expect a certain level of predictability and consistency. When visiting a neighborhood hole-in-the-wall, though, audiences are more lenient and open to trying new things.

"At Mike's Sandwich Shoppe," Cosenza continued, "We kind of have free reign to run wild. We have a very receptive audience here and a lot of them come here for that creativity. You can go anywhere for a good ham and cheese sandwich, but Mike Carrino and I wanted Mike's to be a place that makes unique, thought-out fare."

With near-perfect Yelp and Google reviews (and a past invitation, which the team accepted, to cook at the James Beard House), it's clear that the public has been receptive of the Mikes' vision.

In fact, Jersey residents love the Shoppe so much that they flooded my @northjerseyeats inbox with messages about it — which eventually stirred me to go.

Visiting Mike's Pasta and Sandwich Shoppe in Nutley

I first visited Mike's Pasta and Sandwich Shoppe this past June. Operating from a grey, paneled house with a pointed roof, the humble lunch joint blends seamlessly into the neighborhood around it. Drive by quickly and your subconscious mind would likely process it as a duplex, as mine did, and cause you to miss it.

When you enter the Shoppe, however, the idea of it being a residence quickly falls away. Industrial sized deli cases — with four (at least) gourmet macaroni salads in them — fill the right side of the restaurant, while a pasta-making studio occupies the left. Most of the noodles produced in the latter are sent to Jersey's top Italian restaurants.

Cosenza greeted me upon my arrival, and handed me a Mike's menu. From my first glance at the paper print-out, no sandwich the Shoppe offered was traditional. The "Grilled Cheese" was "Spicy," loaded with caciocavallo and Calabrian pepper spread, and the "Fried Eggplant" featured tomato jam and whipped ricotta. A specials board listed a couple Mortadella and Burrata a sub, as well as a Spicy Chorizo panino with harissa mayo. I knew making a lunch decision would be difficult, so I told Cosenza to send me his best.

Fried eggplant, thin-sliced chorizo and more

At my wish, Cosenza brought me three sandwiches; the aforementioned Chorizo and the Eggplant, as well as the All of 'Em, which featured a four meat-blend of prosciutto, capicola, sopressata and mortadella with accoutrements. I ate the eggplant first, because its colors intrigued me, but the chorizo — with its sharp cheese and thin-sliced meat — was my favorite. The harissa mayo it included soaked beautifully into the soft bread, and pickled red onions provided a nice sweetness amongst the sandwich's spice. Impressed by the refined flavors I found between the buns, I vowed to return to the shop.

Two weeks later, I made a second visit to Mike's, followed — closely after — by a third. At one point, I tried the Spicy Grilled Cheese, which tasted, colloquially, like pizza bread with chipotle sauce. With crispy crust that disappeared under equally crispy cheese (because the panini press zapped it as it oozed out), the sandwich quickly dethroned the Chorizo as my new favorite. Over time, however, rotating specials and seasonal features taught me I'd never be able to keep the same favorite for long.

Some other creations Cosenza and Carrino have served in the past (that further support the idea no single one of their sandwiches reigns supreme) include Taylor Ham Bao Buns with hoisin ketchup and pickled cucumber, Lomo Saltado with aji amarillo crema and soy-ginger mayo, and Smoked Pork Belly with Napa cabbage slaw and pickled red onions. All are testaments to the culinary skills of the co-owners, and taste more like indulging in a high-end dish than a quick sub on the run.

Where to find Jersey's most creative sandwiches

So, if you're a fan of innovative takes on comfort classics, unusual flavor pairings or high-end fare disguised as everyday grub, head over to 95 Harrison Street in Nutley.

This week's special — a duck panini with prosciutto, brie, peaches and cherry pepper relish — awaits.

Go: 95 Harrison Street, Nutley; 973-542-8822, mikespastasandwichshoppe.com

This article originally appeared on NorthJersey.com: Mike's Sandwich Shoppe in Nutley NJ boasts unique sandwich menu