Naples restaurant review: Supersized sushi with sides of fries and pizza? JLB on an icon
Years ago at the Ritz Paris, a colleague and I celebrated the conclusion of a grueling work week abroad with a visit to the hotel’s iconic bar.
Sitting catty-corner was a chicly coiffed, couture-clad woman who voiced displeasure when her half-full glass of wine was presented.
“I want an American pour and I’m happy to pay for it,” she repeated in her Southern drawl to the barman, who I still believe 20 years later, pretended not to understand.
A dapper bilingual gent sitting nearby translated what she meant, and said a few other things as well as I could glean with my college-limited French skills.
Et voila, madame’s glass was topped off.
If sushi was madame’s preference, she would be quite happy at a different Ritz, specifically Dusk, the sushi-focused spot at The Ritz-Carlton Naples, where maki rolls are Texas-sized, presenting this reporter with the challenge of eating gracefully.
Case in point: Vegetarian maki’s chopstick-defying circumference.
A know-it-all ex told me that tekkamaki was created in Japan for poker players so they could use one hand for cards and the other to eat. I never heard this while living in Sendai, where exorbitant prices made sushi a rare treat, but using your fingers is the best way to enjoy this roll though the “soy paper” wrapped pieces are sticky to the touch.
Two more sizable rolls were ordered: Spicy shrimp tempura topped with tuna (a special request) and a dragon.
As at many Americanized sushi joints, I’ve never quite understood why the shrimp’s tail isn’t deshelled or removed for rolls. Yes it's considered a delicacy in some parts of Asia, but it's not my preference or that of anyone else I know. For me, lopping the tail from the piece either before — or worse, expelling after it’s been in your mouth — is awkward.
The house specialty, “Skuna Bay Wild Salmon Arburi,” reminded me of a Napoleon pastry. Topped with salmon, two thickish layers of rice sandwich the spicy tuna inside.
Although I didn't have a tape measure with me, the six hefty rectangular pieces appeared to be larger than two inches. My preference is bite-sized sushi so we resorted to slicing each into halves to avoid making a mess.
A better one-bite bet is Nigiri. There are eight options and those tried were solid: hotate (scallop), my favorite ikura (salmon roe) and inari (tofu). If returning, this would be what I would order again.
Oh, speaking of messes, JLB made a big one when my overly Clarins-moisturized hands lost grasp of the sweat-beaded cocktail glass, spilling a lovely pina colada martini onto a tablemate. Our astute server promptly rushed over to blot it.
My pals, one a regular patron since 1997, suspected I wouldn’t be charged when a replacement was promptly delivered. I thought otherwise and was proven right after seeing the check.
Related: Ritz-Carlton, Naples, slammed by Ian, reopens bigger, better, on Vanderbilt Beach
This cocktail doesn’t resemble the typical frothy-sweet beachy drink: It's a sophisticated and exquisitely garnished presentation of coconut "fat washed" (buzzy booze-industry lingo) Absolut and "clarified" pineapple juice beautifully balanced and boasting premium ice.
JLB is a sucker for substantial ice cubes.
Not being a regular, I didn’t know you could order “off the menu” (a former restaurant manager there said this is not encouraged.) In addition to her customized sushi, my pal’s daughter asked for truffle fries; they were tasty and delivered hot despite how busy it was on Saturday night.
When getting up to wash my hands, I noticed another table, a family whose teenage son looked like he was just off a basketball court, eating pepperoni pizza.
It wasn't just the pizza that caught my attention but his clothes too. I kept thinking, It’s The Ritz-Carlton dude. Show a little respect.
What to know before you go
Address: 100 Vanderbilt Beach Road, North Naples
Call: 239-598-6644
Website: ritzcarlton.com
What you’ll pay: Rolls run $18 to $30; Nigiri (one piece) and sashimi (2 pieces), $7 to $13; Cocktails, $18 to $25; dessert, $12 for matcha mochi as beautiful as it is delicious to $16. Two ho-hum appetizers are listed ― edamame for $16 and miso soup is $14 (!).
Dress code: Many guests in the restaurant and around the property went above and beyond the suggested “smart casual” dress code, especially the women glitzed out for a fun night out on the town.
Etc.: Exemplary service at four touchpoints including valet, reception desk, host stand and our waiter. Very limited menu and it's not online. Not too loud-ish despite several small groups and parties. A comfortable lounge-y setting could be a bit seductive if not for the televisions. Solid girls' and date night option. Valet (and requisite tip) a must.
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. JLB always pays for her meals. This article came from staff writer Diana Biederman. Follow our critics on Facebook via BiteIntoSWFL and Instagram. To connect: diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Sushi with sides of fries, pizza and swellegant cocktails in Naples
