Naples restaurant review: Delightful Vietnamese classics at new cafe on Davis Blvd. - JLB
While most JLB reviews are anonymous, this one wasn’t. Hanh Nguyen, who co-owns Pho An with her sister-in-law Thuong Pham, the chef, recognized me within minutes.
Their moderately priced 16-seat café officially opened in June in Kings Lake Square. Though it was very busy on a July Saturday afternoon, it was quiet on a recent Friday night.
I suspect that might change after today.
Anonymously or not, I was urged to visit because friends residing in the nearby Countryside community won’t stop talking about their new favorite spot, going so far as to specify exactly what to order.
“You must have the flank pho. Get two orders of nem nuong spring rolls.”
Their suggestions didn’t work out exactly as planned, but all in all, it is a welcome addition to East Naples.
While taking my order, Nguyen discouraged me from the flank, believing I might find it too chewy (there is no way she could’ve known I was at the dentist a day earlier.)
Given the beef phos are priced $16.50 or a buck more for a beef mix that also includes meatballs, I knew she wasn’t trying to upsell me.
Instead, she suggested steak or brisket. Why not both?
The phos (pronounced pha) arrive loaded with thinly-sliced beef and rice noodles swimming in a heavenly limpid broth chockful of scallion and crystalline onion. Assembling the separately-plated aromatics — lime, leafy sprigs of vibrant Thai basil and mint — plus two sauces, thick jalapeno slices and crunchy sprouts depends on you.
It helps to be adroit with chopsticks; your alternative is a few plastic spoons for mixing everything up.
Days later, I still can’t get the fragrant minty-lime broth out of my head. There might not be a better summer meal.
Something to know: if you’re a messy eater like me, the paper napkins on the table are quite tiny at this unpretentious spot. I went through possibly a dozen, some of which flew to the floor every time the door opened.
Another thing: the food comes out when it's ready.
Our first appetizer, the aforementioned spring rolls wrapped in translucent rice paper so you can see a measurable sliver of Vietnamese sausage poking through, arrived first. A few minutes later, everything else from fried egg rolls, two phos plus a chicken rice platter landed on the table.
How to proceed? Add the aromatics to your pho to steep their flavor into the broth, then dive into the egg rolls so they maintain their crunchy integrity.
I questioned Nguyen about the fantastic chicken rice platter, whose dense meat resembled pork. She later explained via email that the chicken thighs are marinated before cooking to add flavor.
For chicken pho and banh mi sandwiches, breast meat is grilled whole and pre-marinated with garlic, chicken powder, lemongrass and a hint of soy sauce.
Next time.
If craving something sweet, a variety of thick milk teas and coffees priced from $5.75 to $6.50 might satisfy the urge. I suggest waiting until after your meal to order one so the sweetness doesn’t compete with the savory courses.
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Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. JLB always pays for her meals. This article came from staff writer Diana Biederman. Follow our critics on Facebook via BiteIntoSWFL and Instagram. To connect: diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
Pho An
4850 Davis Blvd., Naples
Price: Everything is under $18.
Call: 239-304-8917
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday until 9 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Website: phoan.kwickmenu.com
Etc.: Ample parking; a selection of fruit teas, milk teas, soft drinks; noise level depends on guests inside.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Vietnamese homecooking at new cafe in Naples: Restaurant review
