Muy delicioso: Nuevo pan-Latin American fare found at a fun new Naples restaurant - JLB
Every now and then, when NDN’s Facebook page posts our dining reviews, there’s an occasional comment suggesting that JLB doesn’t dine anonymously or that she gets special treatment.
Let’s address this before you read further.
Case in point: Roger B., a Facebook commenter, thought my Capital Grille lunch deal review was too praiseworthy.
An ad he said.
I wanted to reply back, “It was my first visit to this location, and we were two middle-aged broads walking in without reservations.”
Not that anyone needed restaurant reservations in 2023, much less during our sleepy summers, but why pick a fight?
If recognized, I always note it in the story. This has happened a handful of times since 2022, mostly because I was writing preview stories after touring new restaurants.
And though I wrote a preview and met Unidos’s owners two months ago, this middle-aged broad’s superpower remains invisibility.
Why am I telling you this?
During my visit to this nuevo pan-Latin restaurant, which opened in January, the owners were busy working the floor, even bussing tables.
They didn’t bat an eyelid at me. Notta glance in 2½, and good for JLB visits.
I arrived without a reservation. Not knowing how many we would be was decidedly not helpful for the hostess, who surveyed the room for available seating. Every bar stool and most tables were taken.
The backstory: I had asked my plus one to make a reservation a week earlier under her name, but no one answered the phone when she called. Also, Unidos isn’t on OpenTable or Resy.
It didn’t help that my plus one was running late and occasionally brings her daughters.
When plus one finally picked up her phone, she said it would just be us, and I was escorted to the remaining table for two.
What we ate & drank
Not caring for eau de Collier, JLB usually orders bottled water. Not knowing if plus one wanted her water fizzy or flat, our mostly fantastic server (from Peru) brought capped Vero-filtered large bottles of both. The charge was $4, half the amount normally charged at local restaurants for bottled water, but not mentioned when delivered.
While waiting for plus one, I perused the cocktail list and ordered rum with bitters, dubbed the “Ricky Ricardo.”
Funny enough, when plus one sat down she ordered “I Love Lucy,” a vodka libation with strawberry puree, not knowing I ordered Ricky.
It made for a good chuckle.
Plus one’s eldest daughter previously visited Unidos several times and insisted we order elote fritters. Though I am decidedly not a fan of most fried foods, this Peruvian-inspired riff uses ultra-light tempura batter and is exceptionally delicious.
We also split a ceviche trio. The verve-y fish and marinades are presented with panache. Vibrant and light, I would order them again in a heartbeat. Pro tip: When you go, ask for three spoons ― one per bowl to better maintain each juice's distinctive flavor.
My only gripe? Looking plentiful, plantain chips underneath the large first few comprised broken bits too tiny to scoop with the fish. We were charged $2 for replacement chips.
Our first main course fused Argentina’s famous gnocchi and Cuba’s ropa vieja. Each piece pillowy, the beef, luscious.
Lesson du jour: In many Argentine homes, on the 29th of each month, gnocchi is a family dish eaten to bring good luck.
My question: Why save this tradition for once a month when it’s that good?
At any South American restaurant, it would be a sin not to order beef. When asked our temperature preference for the “certified Angus” hanger steak, I said (as I always do) “how chef believes it should be served.”
That request usually does not serve me well. It didn’t this time either. Next time I’ll be more specific in my ask, hoping for hints of pink; though beautifully charred, it was too rare for my taste and a challenge to cut. Most was forgiven with the fantastic housemade chimichurri sauce accompanying the beef. What we didn’t finish made for a delightful next-day salad though still tough to slice.
As for dessert? Heavenly. I think Unidos should change the “Street Churros” name, which for this writer conjures the 34th Street subway station under Madison Square Garden, where ladies sell loosie homemade who knows where the kitchen is? versions. Like airport sushi, SNL had a field day with a genius musical tribute to "Subway Churros."
But this is Naples, and ours was Rodeo Drive-fancy with a scoop of refreshing coconut ice cream, fresh whipped cream and strawberry. You could share it, but you might not want to.
What to know before you go
When penning my preview story two months ago, the owners wanted readers to know it was not a free chips and salsa kind of place.
This is true. Unidos attracts a somewhat sophisticated crowd. In direct view: well-heeled ladies spotting Louboutins dining at the ceviche bar.
I don’t think they were looking for free chips and salsa. With many tempting menu items to consider, you won't miss it either.
Unidos is among a handful of new restaurants in town that I will revisit on my own dime but with a reservation next time because if the terrific Mama Chuy’s rice is any indication, portobello risotto has my name written all over it.
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Unidos
1 Ninth Street, Naples; 239-331-3668; unidosrestaurant.com
Prices: Appetizers are $12-$26; mains $21-$45; desserts $13 to $16; cocktails $15 to $18.
Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Wednesday; until 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Weekend brunch service is expected to start March 23.
Etc: It's loud, like Miami loud. Many GF menu items; a few vegan choices. Patio seating available. Fine wine list with several power reds (I nursed a Felino Malbec); beer, too. Reservations via Tock.
Diana Biederman is NDN's food & restaurant writer. Connect via dbiederman@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Naples restaurant review: Nuevo pan-Latin American fare with flair
