MSGM RTW Spring 2023

With Italian elections taking place Sunday, this Milan Fashion Week showed that designers are eager to speak their minds. Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli did it via Instagram posts, and up-and-comer Marco Rambaldi and activist-creative Stella Jean, too, showing on the runway what progressive Italy looks like.

Massimo Giorgetti addressed the subject backstage at his Saturday show. How could he not? The vocal, stance-taking Instagram and TikTok generation are his clients, rushing to get one of his slogan-bearing T-shirts whenever one drops.

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Pinned on the season’s mood board were images from François Truffaut’s “The Bride Wore Black” and Uma Thurman in Quentin Tarantino’s “Kill Bill,” as well as Milla Jovovich wearing a bridal veil and flower crown.

Was he launching a noir-tinged bridal range? Not really. His original intention, a witty and humorous take on bridal garb, turned out as a serendipitously apt parade the day before the polls, the likely win by the nationalist-leaning coalition seen as a retrograde step for the country.

“I like that this theme of marriage, freedom, love, togetherness coincided with today,” Giorgetti said. “I don’t want to campaign, but tomorrow let’s all try to keep love, unity, climate [action] and the earth intact,” he said, tackling subjects of political debate.

Still, MSGM is about fun and lighthearted fashion, which is also much needed in tough times.

No black-veiled spouses here, but Lolitas sporting see-through, neon-tinged, brief-revealing tulle skirts riffing on wedding gowns’ petticoats. Delicate lace, another wedding-inspired collection fetish, was worked into skin-baring tops, skintight leggings and catsuits with frills and ruches and appeared as a print on slipdresses.

He was more in his element with short stretch frocks sinuously wrapped and knotted around the body, girlish smock ruffled dresses or boxy white blazers sprouting crystals and wedding bands.

They were fun, but lacked Giorgetti’s usual knack for sensing what’s trending on the streets and turning it into retail-ready fashion — joyous and cheerful.

Launch Gallery: MSGM RTW Spring 2023

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