Mike Romans, the 'godfather' of Milwaukee’s craft beer scene, dies at 69
Mike Romans, considered the "godfather" of Milwaukee's craft beer scene, died in his home above Romans' Pub in Bay View on July 22. He was 69.
“Michael was a character,” his brother Randy Romans said. “He had a great knowledge of beer. He owned one of the earliest craft beer bars and had a devoted following.”
Romans got into the bar business after his father, a former Milwaukee police officer, opened the first Romans' bar when Mike was a teenager.
Romans managed the former Arcana Lounge when he and a business partner bought the bar at 3475 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. on Dec. 1, 1978. The partner put $8,500 down for the bar; Romans only had to buy the seller a moped. Less than a year later, Romans bought out his partner.
"To run a bar for 45 years, it's unheard of these days," Randy Romans said.
In an interview with the Journal Sentinel in June, Romans talked about how he started ordering craft beer after he got into an argument with his Miller distributor.
"They said, 'You'll never last long without Miller,' " he said. "How do you like me now?"
In 1996, Romans switched his focus to mostly import beers and was on top of the craft beer trend as it spread across the nation.
'Being on his draft lines was a huge deal'
Romans was known for his no-nonsense approach. He would say that the sign in front of the door says "open, not welcome."
He also was known to kick people out of his pub. Some people never returned, and others wore it as a badge of honor once Romans let them back — as long as they stayed on their best behavior.
“He didn’t tolerate behavior he didn’t like in the bar,” said Max Borgardt, co-owner of Eagle Park Brewing Co. and a regular at Romans' Pub.
Borgardt got to know Romans while working in the service industry before he started his brewery.
"I spent a lot of time at Romans' and I learned a lot about craft beer. Mike was kind of the one who paved the way," Borgardt said. "He knew everyone, all the original Lagunitas brothers, Larry Bell of Bell's, and the original brewers at Goose Island."
At the time, Borgardt purchased product for Matty's Bar and Grill, 14460 College Ave., New Berlin, where he was a manager. He would often look to Romans' beer menu, written by hand above the bar, when deciding what to purchase for Matty's.
"I had his beer list on the home screen in my phone so I could glance at it whenever I needed it," Borgardt said.
After he opened Eagle Park in January 2017, Borgardt was too afraid to sell Romans a keg, given how high his standards were.
"We were a young brewery just trying to figure everything out," he said. "I respect his place. Being on his draft lines was a huge deal."
By October 2018, Eagle Park had been in its new spot at 823 E. Hamilton St. for almost a year and was ready to bring Romans in to purchase something.
"He tried a bunch of stuff and thought it was amazing," Borgardt said. "I put a keg in the back of his pickup truck, and he paid cash on the spot. That's how his orders went."
During a recent interview, Borgardt looked back at what Romans' first keg purchase was: a milkshake IPA.
"That's hilarious," Borgardt said. "It's not a traditional style by any means, but he was never afraid."
When Romans was diagnosed with cancer, Eagle Park made a New England hazy IPA in collaboration with Romans. They named it "The Godfather." Proceeds of the beer sales went to Romans' medical bills.
"He is the godfather. The reason I drink craft beer is his bar," Borgardt said.
Battling cancer
For the last four years, Romans battled esophageal and upper stomach cancer that spread to his lungs and brain. He also had his right leg amputated as a result of Charcot-Marie-Tooth, a degenerative nerve disease that plagued him for years.
Earlier this year, Romans learned a new cancer had formed in his jaw. He announced at the end of June he would be going on hospice care and the bar would only be open sporadically.
It ended up being open just one weekend, July 13-15, before he died.
“The last weekend he was open was almost a godsend,” Randy Romans said. “Michael loved it. People got to say their goodbyes.”
Romans' Pub will close with Romans' death, just shy of celebrating 45 years in December. Randy Romans is the trustee of the bar and plans to put it up for sale. He hopes it will remain a bar.
Visitation for Romans will take place at the Prasser-Kleczka Funeral Home, 3275 S. Howell Ave., from 4 to 7 p.m. August 4. After the visitation, Randy Romans and Romans' friends will open his pub for one last time.
Editor's note: An earlier version of this story shared the incorrect location for Romans' visitation.
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This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Mike Romans, 'godfather' of Milwaukee’s craft beer scene, dies at 69
