Memphis chef Keith Clinton adds fresh, modern spin to Chez Philippe in The Peabody

There have been some changes at Chez Philippe at The Peabody hotel this summer.

And, no, it’s not that duck has been added to the menu. (Longtime Memphians know that thanks to the beloved world-famous Peabody ducks — duck has never been served on the menu at this historic hotel.)

Chez Philippe has its first Memphis-born and -bred Chef de Cuisine.

Memphis chef Keith Clinton has taken over the kitchen at Chez Philippe and is adding his fresh, modern spin to the historic fine dining restaurant.

The Peabody Executive Chef Andreas Kisler said the decision to choose Clinton, a Midtown native, for this role was easy. “He really impressed me with his talent, his demeanor, his professionalism and his drive.”

Since opening in 1981, award-winning Chez Philippe has been a fine dining restaurant. While it remains a fine dining tasting-menu concept, the new team has strived to make sure the dining experience is not "stuffy" or uncomfortable.

Setting the tone, Clinton is very visible in the dining room, walking around, chatting with guests at each table and often bringing out courses himself to present the final touches, like shaving truffles or flambéing dessert.

We recently Clinton asked to tell us about himself and his menu.

Where did you learn to cook?

Clinton: I really learned a lot from my time at Erling Jensen. I spent a decade there with five of those years in the Chef de Cuisine role. Being there for so long afforded me the opportunity to learn under some of the city's notable chefs — including David Krog and Jimmy Gentry — before taking over the role myself. Erling really taught me all the classic techniques and how to "shoot from the hip," as he would say. He also allowed me incredible freedom to explore.

After my time there, I was a private chef for a couple of high-profile clients. Working one on one with them and tailoring their needs and building a working relationship was a great tradeoff to a busy Saturday night shift.

I also recently ran a pop-up with my wife, Meredith Clinton, (who is the current sous-chef at Bog & Barley) called "CCC" where we served only "Chicken, Champagne and Caviar."

How would you describe your style of cuisine?

Clinton: I am trained in classic French cuisine, but I have Southern roots.

I just take those base roots and techniques and adjust them into modern takes and applications. I am hyper-focused on seasons and produce. For example, lamb will always be raised but chanterelles only grow for one season a year.

Could you describe one of the dishes on the current menu and the inspiration behind it?

This crudo dish I am in love with right now really hits all the notes. It is tuna crudo with grapefruit, avocado and cherry blossom shoyu.

I was searching for something light and bright that packed a punch at the same time. I wanted it to be herbaceous, but also kept feeling the urge to make it acidic.

I wanted to set the tone for the opening of my tasting menu with something that was crazy good ... something that was adventurous. I envisioned guests tilting the bowls back to get the last of the jus from the bowl. And often they do.

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How often will the menu change?

Clinton: Every week. Sometimes daily. Sometimes a single dish will remain for an extended period of time, like the tuna. But often we are changing the opening snacks and juices daily.

We look ahead to the availability of coming products and map out ideas. Usually, the dish has seen some variations and changes through a two-week testing process. So other than prepping the menu, we're exploring ideas for future dishes every day.

Sometimes a short-seasoned produce item will spark a fire, and we will make a change before the weekend is over. For instance, if I'm at market and see pomelos show up unexpectedly, my mind is swirling with ideas and ways to use it that night.

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer. 

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Chez Philippe

Where: The Peabody Memphis, 149 Union Ave.

Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Thursday-Sunday

Tasting Menu: Choose from the four- or seven-course tasting menu; vegetarian tasting menus available

Online: peabodymemphis.com

This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Chez Philippe at The Peabody: Meet Chef de Cuisine Keith Clinton