MeeshMeesh offers wines of the world from oldest grapes 'still being used for production'

I keep a list of restaurants I want to visit, and there are currently 44 from Louisville to Lexington that I’d like to get through. Unfortunately, three well-known establishments closed their doors before I was able to cross them off my list. These include Butchertown Grocery, Gasthaus, and most recently, Wiltshire on Market.

Fortunately, there’s a new restaurant in the former Wiltshire on Market space. Chef Noam Bilitzer’s MeeshMeesh Mediterranean began welcoming guests on Sept. 1, and Wiltshire owner Susan Hershberg played a big part in getting the eatery open.

“We were able to really develop the menu and our program under really good guidance (from Hershberg),” beverage director Hannah Arbaugh told The Courier Journal. “She saw a spark in (Bilitzer) and let us run with our ideas — reigned us in when we needed it — and now we have this gorgeous space that we’ve inherited. We’re just so fortunate.”

Bilitzer — who is from Israel — began bringing Eastern Mediterranean flavors to Derby City by way of pop-ups at Wiltshire on Market during his chef residency. Today, the “Chopped” winner is serving his creations in what is now his very own brick-and-mortar space.

The carefully curated menu boasts small plates, a variety of dips and shmears, sides, main courses, and large servings crafted for sharing. Those familiar with Bilitzer’s creations highly recommend the crispy cauliflower with almonds, pickled currants, herbs, toum, and amba; as well as the shawarma spiced chicken thighs made with amba, jalapeno shug, and herbs.

“The word MeeshMeesh in Arabic and Hebrew means apricot,” Bilitzer explained. “I just kind of sat there and tried to think of something that was also catchy in English. MeeshMeesh came to me as a really cute way to tie the cultures and make it relatable for everyone.”

Bilitzer made sure to infuse Mediterranean flair into not only the restaurant’s name and cuisine but into the beverage program as well. While I sipped on Arbaugh’s pomegranate punch — her take on a Kentucky Oaks Lily — she explained what guests can expect to find at the MeeshMeesh bar.

“I took a Derby favorite and tweaked it to make it a little more Israeli,” she said. “We will not offer cranberry juice in-house — it will be pomegranate across the board.”

Like the food, she explained, the beverage program focuses on the Levantine region. “(That includes) anywhere Arab influence would have been,” she said. “With that in mind, all of our wine program (is from an) old and very ancient world, with indigenous varietals that no one has ever heard of. … They’re the oldest grapes that are still being used for production.”

With the help of John Grisanti from Nouvelle Bar & Bottle, she developed the wine program to complement Bilitzer’s cuisine and bring unique finds to guests. The pair ensured the final selections included little crossover between the two establishments, so Louisvillians have lots to pick from between both NuLu spots. None of the wines at MeeshMeesh are made in the U.S., and very few are from France. Most of the picks are Israeli, Turkish, and Lebanese.

“We’ve also got a really cute Sicilian wine that’s named Amira,” Arbaugh said, explaining that “amira” means “princess” in both Hebrew and Arabic — and it’s also chef Bilitzer’s mom’s name. “Without Amira, we would not have chef (Bilitzer), so thank goodness we’ve always got her in the building — mother’s eye (is) always watching.”

For wine enthusiasts visiting MeeshMeesh for the first time, Arbaugh recommends the Domaine Des Tourelle, a white wine from the oldest-producing vineyard in Lebanon. Described as a bouquet of tropical fruit and jasmine, it offers crisp and refreshing citrus notes.

“And the Golan Heights is gorgeous,” Arbaugh said of the red wine from Israel. “It goes really well with our steak and our lamb.”

Arbaugh added that she also tries to incorporate flavors from the kitchen into the cocktail program whenever possible. There’s the Tehina Washed Manhattan, which brings a bit of nuttiness into the Old Forester-based beverage. And Not Your Bubbe’s Borscht boasts beet shrub from Louisville Shrubology, an egg white, and Norden aquavit.

“(We’re) playing into all of the things that chef [Bilitzer] remembers from being little,” Arbaugh said, “[like] eating bubbe’s borscht.”

She added that aquavit isn’t a spirit commonly offered in our city’s bar programs, but it brings the caraway profile found in several MeeshMeesh dishes into its beverages as well. And while the cocktail menu includes three mocktails, Arbaugh says most of the drinks listed can be made zero-proof, too.

“That’s important to me,” she stated. “We have a large sober community in town, so being able to make drinks that are flavorful — with or without alcohol — is one of the things I always strive for. I don't want anyone to feel left out.”

Arbaugh added that every MeeshMeesh beverage — whether it’s wine, a cocktail, or a mocktail — complements Bilitzer’s menu.

“Come in and grab a drink,” she said, “but also grab (food) while you’re here. … Bring a group. Break bread, have a feast, and enjoy the company. See how all of the different flavors pair together. Everyone has a unique experience here — and you will not leave hungry.”

Know a restaurant that would make a great feature? Email writer Lennie Omalza at aloha@lennieomalza.com or Lifestyle Editor Kathryn Gregory at kgregory@gannett.com.

MeeshMeesh Mediterranean

WHAT: This is a Levantine-focused, family-style restaurant that encompasses the flavors of Palestine, Jordan, Israel, Lebanon, Syria, and more in its food and beverages.

WHERE: 636 E. Market St.

SERVICES: Dine-in, private dining, and catering; 5-9 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday; -10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Monday and Tuesday

CONTACT: 502-589-5224, meeshmeesh.com

This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: MeeshMeesh Mediterranean serves wines from Israel, Turkey, Lebanon