Marilyn Monroe’s Red Crystal Pumps Inspired Maximilian Davis’ Debut Collection at Ferragamo

For his debut collection at Salvatore Ferragamo, creative director Maxmilian Davis tapped into one of the brand’s most enduring inspirations: Hollywood.

More specifically, the 27-year-old rising star, who was tapped to take the reins of the heritage label in March, zeroed in on one of Mr. Ferragamo’s most iconic designs — the red crystal ‘Marilyn’ pumps the founder designed for Marilyn Monroe in 1959.

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“I wanted to pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood – but new Hollywood,” the designer wrote in his show notes.

Red was one of the primary colors in Davis’ collection, which was shown at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday — on a runway of red sand at the palace of the former Archbishop’s Seminary of Milan that will soon be converted into a Ferragamo hotel and shopping complex.

Models walk the runway during the finale of the spring ’23 Ferragamo show. - Credit: Getty Images
Models walk the runway during the finale of the spring ’23 Ferragamo show. - Credit: Getty Images

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Ahead of the show, Ferragamo seemed eager to touts its new identity, earlier this week scrapping the old logo (and the founder’s first name) in place of a sleeker serif font.

“History is an immense treasure for a house that owns it,” CEO and general manager Marco Gobbetti told WWD. “The new Ferragamo logotype contains and expands both history and the now. Far from being just a logo, it is a program, which will frame and direct the new chapter that is about to be written.”

The next chapter for Ferragamo footwear is still a bit unclear. (Davis took the reins from former creative chief Paul Andrew, a longtime shoe designer.)

A new geometric heel was derived by the brand’s Gancini hardware.  - Credit: Getty Images
A new geometric heel was derived by the brand’s Gancini hardware. - Credit: Getty Images

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It was difficult to see many of the shoe details in Davis’ collection, which were overshadowed by the runway’s red sand. One of the new heels was derived from the brand’s geometric double-hooked Gancini hardware.

The bags were more of a story: The Wanda– first introduced in 1988 and named after Salvatore’s wife – was reinterpreted in new proportions, while a prismic shoulder bag also was a focus.

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