Looking for a great big pretzel? Find it here in Cocoa Village | Restaurant Review
First, let’s dispose of the notion that Tin Whiskey Southern Kitchen & Still is a combination of old Murdock’s and Norman’s.
It is, venue-wise. In 2022, Stevie Whittaker, who formerly owned Murdock’s, moved her operation to what was Norman’s.
But you wouldn’t know the building ever was its old self, inside or out. This is nothing like the plain, slightly seedy place it was, but a huge, immaculate, homey venue with a rustic look and lots of reminders of old Cocoa and old everything else. Outdoor seating is protected from the rain, indoor seating is amid dark wainscoting and sentimental artwork. It is bar-centric, with three big bars.
The menu is not quite identical to the one people loved at the previous restaurant, and we’re told that soon it’s going to grow, but it has the burgers, grilled cheese sandwiches, entrees and other delights that brought people to Cocoa Village.
It took forever to figure out what to eat because we like a lot on said menu, not least the Sloppy Tin Whiskey sandwich ($12.99), to which moisture, texture and a touch of bite are added by sautéed peppers, onions and coleslaw piled on sauced pulled pork; and the Buffalo Soldier ($13.99), a grilled cheese that features bleu cheese, chicken and Buffalo sauce added to pimento cheese.
But, having been surrounded by nostalgia, we went with it: the Ginormous Pretzel ($11.99) and Pear & Brie flatbread ($12.99), of which we partook so many times at Murdock’s. I am not averse to trying something new, only wanted to see how TW did with menu items that, for whatever reason, went downhill in their former circumstances. These were delicious.
The pretzel still is huge, served with a homemade cheese sauce which, if you finish the pretzel, may be mopped up with bits of flatbread crust. The pretzel isn’t bad either, though a little more salt would have been fine, its surface crisp enough to peel off to use as chips of sorts with the aforementioned sauce or coarse-ground mustard. For what it’s worth, this version of the Big Pretzel is neither gummy nor floury.
The flatbread had neither a limp crust nor mushy pears.
The crust is oblong-shaped and topped with brie, onions and thinly sliced, fresh pears (Have you seen the price of those things in the supermarket? Yeow.), all baked in a brick oven, then drizzled with balsamic reduction. It is crunchy around the edges, the buttery, slightly earthy flavor of brie contrasted with the crisp texture and fruity sweetness of the pears, of which there were many. If you want to stop into a restaurant to grab a light lunch or snack, this is perfect for it.
Our next visit started well, with fried artichoke hearts served with lemon aioli ($11.99). Marvelous, the little shards of battered crispness, easily shared.
Dinner was something I hadn’t had in a while: Porky’s Revenge ($13.99), a mound of barbecued pork, bacon, maple bourbon relish and house-made pimento cheese surrounded by smoked Gouda on what is advertised as challah. It has been grand who-knows-how-many times in the past, but this time it could have done with a closer look in the kitchen. It was not terribly hot, the cheese was not melted and it hadn’t a trace of maple bourbon flavor, though pork taste was all over it. But yes, I would order it again because I shall consider the last one an anomaly.
My dining companions saw a bargain in a 12-ounce, center-cut, New York strip steak for $19.99 and, well, Tin Whiskey is no steakhouse and you get what you pay for. This was not a high-quality piece of beef, however beautifully cooked, but chewy and not especially tasty. Still, the accompanying garlic mashed potatoes drew raves; the real deal, they said.
What wasn’t likeable about the place? Well, a lack of hot tea, for one thing. And calling a mixed drink “Bong Water” is neither funny nor cool.
Look, Tin Whiskey is not a center of culinary masterpieces, nor is it a dive. It’s a restaurant and lounge that does exceptionally well with what it has, which is a lot of stuff jazzed up and stamped with its own identity.
Good for Tin Whiskey. See you there.
Tin Whiskey Southern Kitchen
Three
Address: 3 Forrest Ave., Cocoa Village
Hours: Noon to 6 p.m. Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, noon to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday
Call: 321-633-0600
Online: tinwhiskey.com
Surcharges: None
Also: Full bars with premium spirits; live music; kids’ menu
About our reviews
Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.
Five stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.
Four stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.
Three stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.
Two stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.
One star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.
Lyn Dowling is a freelance food and lifestyles writer based in Melbourne. Join the conversation at facebook.com/groups/321FlavorWhereBrevardEats.
This article originally appeared on Florida Today: Tin Whiskey in Cocoa Village is immaculate and homey with lots of outdoor seating
