Kim Jones is the designer of the moment, and his latest livestreamed show at Milan Fashion Week proved once again that Fendi made the perfect choice in naming him artistic director of womenswear. For the fall 2021 season, a swift follow-up to his debut couture show in January, the British designer presented a collection that paid homage to the Roman label’s storied history, while also adding his signature sleek, streetwise edge.
“The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard—and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” said Jones in the show notes. “A powerful dynasty.”
In an expansive space lined with glass cubicles that contained replicas of ancient ruins, the first model walked out in a suede trench with fur panels, accessorized with bold gold earrings in the shape of the brand’s iconic FF logo, along with knee-high leather boots and a clasp bag. The look was a perfect reflection of past meets present: Fendi began as a family-run fur company in the ’20s, and biz-leisure is the trend du jour. The rest of the lineup followed the same vibe.
There was a slew of fitted fur coats with sizable shawl lapels and floor-grazing fringe at the hem, cinched with tiny belts; flowing V-neck silk dresses; knit crop tops with matching pencil skirts; and tie-front satin blouses with paperbag-waist trousers. The color palette stuck to neutral tones: cream, tan, blush, grape, and black. “Fun isn’t always just about bright colors,” explained Jones. “It can be about really luxurious self-indulgence, which pleases the person wearing it more than anyone else.”
The overall vibe was refined, versatile, and, above all, wearable. In a time when comfort dressing is riding high, Jones made sure to offer pieces that were equal parts subtle and impactful. For a designer who spent the bulk of his career designing menswear (he still is at the helm of Dior Men’s), he fully grasps the effortlessness and elegance that women covet.
“I’m taking the amazing, strong women who I both know and work with, and listening to their needs,” Jones said. “There’s a usefulness to the collection, explored in a chic, timeless way.”
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