Highly Recommended: Far from the madding crowd is a cozy Warwick pub worth a try
Highly Recommended is an occasional feature that spotlights some of food editor Gail Ciampa’s special finds as she travels across the state looking for the best meals, drink, shopping and food artisans.
On a Saturday afternoon, I saddled up to the bar at Grainsley's Kitchen + Drinks and I immediately felt happy. There was a pleasant bartender to welcome hungry travelers, sports on the TV and a menu full of comfort foods.
I don't live near Warwick's Conimicut Village and that was something I knew I would regret the longer I sat at Grainsley's. It's the perfect neighborhood spot.
We started with two cocktails from their menu of well-tested drinks. The Village Margarita and the Old Fashion are both classics and hit the spot. The pours were just right.
It's all about the pizza
Though the menu calls it pub-style pizza, the pie that arrived at the bar, as ordered with pepperoni, was a South Shore Pizza. This is a style of pizza found in the bars along the South Shore of Massachusetts. It's not exactly thin but not thick either. Call it medium thick. It's served in the 10-inch pan in which it was cooked.
"All the toppings go right to the edge," explained owner Daniel Holleran.
It creates a lacy edge while it cooks. There's no doughy crust to leave behind here. Every slice is all fresh sauce, cheese and in my case, pepperoni. It's delicious.
You can get far more creative with your pizza. There are many meats and other toppings including jalapeno and pineapple on the menu. Or you can choose one of their specialties. The Balboa is a pie version of their Italian grinder with mortadella, capicola, genoa salami, lettuce, tomato, red onion, banana peppers and pickles with oil and balsamic glaze. The Taste of Italy has meatball, ricotta and sausage.
The background
Holleran did a full renovation of the space, a former pizza shop, at 745 West Shore Road. He opened in October 2020 which was still in the midst of the pandemic.
Grainsley's is Holleran's first restaurant. He grew up in nearby Massachusetts but now lives on the East Side of Providence. He's had experience in the hospitality industry at both restaurants and hotels.
Grainsley's is named for his two nieces, Grayson and Ainsley. Get it?
The setting
The atmosphere is enhanced by assorted cozy spaces including the bar, tables, booths and even a sofa corner.
There are approximately 50 seats. The windows face onto West Shore Road and the nearby businesses and homes of Conimicut Village.
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“Conimicut” is named after the granddaughter of the Narragansett sachem, Canonicus, and the daughter of Queen Quaiapen and the sachem Mixanno, according to the Conimicut Village Association. Canonicus was the ruling sachem when the English arrived in Rhode Island.
Comfort foods
The menu includes a lineup of sandwiches and wraps and appetizers. The Buffalo Wings are a juicy and meaty choice. You can also get boneless chicken tenders. Try them with the hand-cut fries.
But the most popular menu item is their Mozzarella Triangles. No chewy sticks are these. The fresh mozzarella is breaded in-house with a mix of herbs, fried and served with their own marinara.
While you are there
You might as well drive the few miles to Antonio's Bakery at 2448 West Shore Road where you'll find the cases full of delectable treats of Italian pastries as well as cakes, pies and breads.
Details: Grainsley's Kitchen + Drinks, 745 West Shore Rd., Warwick, (401) 737-4992, grainsleys.com.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Grainsley's is a fine spot to grab a pizza, drink and more in Warwick
