Green's 35º Brix (and its white French dressing) are a dream come true. Here's why

It’s not often that the subject of a Local Flavor story comes at the recommendation of its predecessor.

Peeking into the private lives of restaurant owners and chefs is usually quite rewarding, at least when it comes to restaurant suggestions. I always ask, “What is your go-to order at your favorite restaurant?”

Nathan DeCheco, owner of DeCheco's Pizzeria, became enmeshed with inner turmoil at the prompt. Eventually, he admitted his favorite local restaurant is 35º Brix in Green (though Diamond Deli and Guiseppe's Pizza were runners up), right next to Sunrise Social, which arguably (and I will argue about it) has the best chicken and waffles in the county.

When he visits, DeCheco orders the 10-ounce hanger steak, which is served with a red wine glaze and loaded baked potato. He also gets a wedge salad that’s topped with “the best white French [dressing] around.”

That dressing was clearly the focus of his affections, so I had to give it a try.

What chefs, bowling coaches eat at 35º Brix

A few of the most popular menu items at Brix are its smoked gouda pierogi, crab Rangoon dip, salads and blackened salmon. When it comes to the dinner side of things, their halibut and pork chop rule the roost.

I ordered that 16-ounce pork chop ($29) – topped with Barrel No. 2 bourbon jam and served alongside a baked potato – during my visit with longtime friend Sarah. It was a massive hunk of well-seasoned meat that took two more meals for me to finish.

Thanks to lent, Sarah was limited to the sea section for our Friday night dinner. Lucky for her (and I guess everyone else celebrating lent), alcohol is still on the Catholic menu, so she ordered a pear pineapple-tini ($7).

Her main dish was the blackened shrimp pasta ($26), which she seemed to fall in love with. It was seasoned well, there was no shortage of artichokes and mushrooms and it had just the right amount of sauce. All entrees come with a side salad, and she drenched hers in the white French dressing DeCheco had raved to me about.

I have to say, after eating my side wedge salad (an additional $4) with that white French dressing, I can see why it’s a fan favorite. The condiment has a slight mustard taste that is held in check by a subtly sweet element.

The two of us also shared roasted vegetable pierogis ($15) stuffed with root vegetables, caramelized onions and brown butter topped with a demi-glace. For dessert, we devoured a peanut butter mousse bomb ($9). Our bill was $97.14 before tip.

While heading out the door, I bumped into Scott Krainess, my high school bowling coach, who informed me that he loves the dressing so much, he sometimes orders some to take home.

35º Brix is a dream come true

The circumstances leading up to owners Amy and Kerry Janke opening the restaurant are not especially cheerful. In fact, the two went through a couple years of strife before the restaurant's doors opened in April 2016.

Kerry, who has always worked in the food service industry, was facing the tail end of his time at a restaurant franchise that was folding. Amy was diagnosed with triple-negative breast cancer, which is considered rare because it only accounts for 10-15% of all breast cancers. Doctors said she likely wouldn’t make it through the nearly two years of treatment.

“At the end of almost two years of treatment for me, my oncologist looked at me and said, ‘You know, you've been given a second chance on life. You have no evidence of disease. That really doesn't happen with somebody with the cancer that you had,’” Amy recounted. “He said, ‘Now's the time. If you have a dream, now is the time to go do what you want to do.’”

The restaurant is named after the sugar concentration of a grape when it’s processed for ice wine – a drink Kerry became passionate about decades ago when the two lived in Buffalo – but its second meaning could cover how fate hit them in the face hard, as though with a brick.

Amy and Kerry’s dedication to following that dream hasn’t wavered, as the couple are at the restaurant every weekend night. Often, Kerry acts as host, and Amy is running the floor ensuring both the staff and guests have everything they need to succeed.

What’s next?

The location in Green will likely be the one and only, as its owners are not looking to expand into a franchise. Their priority is to maintain the family atmosphere they’ve fostered with their employees and guests.

“This definitely isn't a business that I'm in because I'm in it for the money,” Amy said. “I'm in it because I like to do it. I love the people that I meet and the people that work with us.”

So, what is the Jankes’ favorite local restaurant?

Looks like you’ll have to stick around for my next Local Flavor installment to find out.

Got a restaurant recommendation? Contact Beacon Journal reporter Tawney Beans at tbeans@gannett.com and on Twitter @TawneyBeans. And follow her food adventures on TikTok @akronbeaconjournal.

Details

Place: 35º Brix

Address: 3875 Massillon Road, Green

Phone: 330-899-9200

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, 3:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday

Website: www.35brix.com

This article originally appeared on Akron Beacon Journal: 35º Brix in Green has 'the best white French dressing around'