Food writer goes toe-to-toe with Washington Post's picks for best pizzas in Cincinnati
The Washington Post recently put together what might be the most comprehensive pizza story ever written. In researching "The Best Pizza in America, Region by Region," Post editors interviewed "experts, historians and pros around the country" to find the best pizzerias nationwide.
The publication also analyzed 7.5 million Yelp reviews of pizzerias to provide a searchable database of the highest-rated regional-style spots in each state.
So, which Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky spots made the list? Here are some of the winners, along with my own takes.
(Note: I've also included the criteria for each style, according to the Post.)
Chicago-style pizza
"Thick and tall crusts of a deep dish, often with sauce layered atop the cheese. 'Stuffed' is a subset of this type."
Post/Yelp picks: Two Cities Pizza, in Mason, came in first place in Ohio, while Werkhaus Pizza + Pasta, in Green Township, came in sixth. On the Kentucky side of the river, two pizzerias, Bourbon House, with locations in Newport and Florence, and Alpha's Hometown Pizza & Pasta, in Florence, made the list.
My picks: As a Chicago pizza lover, I'm on board with both of the Ohio picks, though I would rank Werkhaus a little higher in terms of authenticity. Its Chicago Classic has a perfectly charred crust – the pie stuffed with green bell peppers, sweet crunchy onions and plenty of Windy City-style sausage. That said, Two Cities' Wrigley Pie is also a magnificent specimen, stuffed with mushrooms, spinach, red onions, feta and mozzarella topped with summery red sauce. The pizza is lighter than the dense Chicago pies you might be used to, so light that you can probably eat it with your hands instead of a fork and knife.
As far as the Kentucky picks go, Bourbon House, which is owned by a mother-daughter team that hails from Chicago, is the most authentic deep dish you'll find in these parts. And as much as I hate to say this, thank you, Washington Post, for putting Alpha's on my radar. I'll be sure to check it out soon.
Detroit-style pizza
"Square slices with a thick crust. Cheese often cooked underneath the sauce and used to crisp up the edges."
Post/Yelp picks: Taglio, with locations in Over-the-Rhine and Columbia Tusculum, came in second place in Ohio, while there were no winners from Northern Kentucky.
My pick: I can't argue with this one. Taglio's caramelized crust (the result of the cheese being cooked underneath) is what makes this pie a Cincinnati favorite. While Taglio also serves New York-style pizzas, its Detroit is so good I've never even tried it. I know that Jet's Detroit-style pizza also has a big following in Greater Cincinnati, but since it's based in Michigan, I'll give Taglio the win.
Neapolitan-ish pizza
"While 'Neapolitan' is strictly defined, Neapolitan-ish includes puffy-crusted wood-fired pizzas with all sorts of fancy toppings."
Post/Yelp picks: No Cincinnati restaurants made the cut in the Neapolitan category. The closest Ohio pizzeria on the list was Old Scratch Pizza, in Dayton. In Northern Kentucky, however, Camporosso, in Fort Mitchell, came in first place for the entire state of Kentucky, while Strong's Brick Oven Pizza, in Newport, came in third.
My pick: I was surprised Cincinnati didn't earn mentions in this category. Forno Osteria and Bar, with locations in Hyde Park and Montgomery, offers a great Neapolitan-style pizza. And hey, why isn't A Tavola on this list? Still, thanks to the Post, I'm putting both Camporosso and Strong's – which also has a location in Reading and a new one coming soon to Bridgetown – high on my list of pizzerias to visit.
New Haven-style pizza
"A thin, charred crust cooked in a coal-fired oven with limited cheeses."
Post/Yelp picks: Cincinnati swept this category, with St. Francis Apizza in Hyde Park coming in first place, Taft's Brewpourium in Spring Grove coming in second, followed by the Taft's location in Columbus for third. There were no winners from Northern Kentucky in this category.
My pick: I'll go with both of these selections, even though St. Francis owner Alex Plattner told me he doesn't consider his pizza a true New Haven style. Part of the reason for its inclusion in the category might simply be the name of his restaurant, since New Haven pizza is always referred to as "apizza." That said, the cooking technique Plattner uses does give St. Francis some New Haven cred. "We do a hotter, quicker bake," he said, "which is the New Haven approach. It leads to a crispier, somewhat charred pizza." Either way, he'll take the win.
While I've made no secret of my love for St. Francis pizzas – which I consider some of the best in the city – as true New Haven style goes, Taft's coal-fired oven makes it the most authentic in town. (I do wish they'd bring back their clam pie, which was always my favorite.)
New York-style pizza
"Thin in the center with a risen lip on the edge, dressed in sauce with cheese atop."
Post/Yelp picks: Two Cities New York-style came in first, while Trophy Pizza, in Evendale, came in third place.
My pick: Agree, though I would put Trophy in first place here. It's without question the most authentic New York-style pie I've tried in Cincinnati. Floppy and foldable with just the right amount of grease. I do love Two Cities' NY-style pizzas, but I'm a bigger fan of their Chicago-style pizzas mentioned above.
Sicilian-style pizza
"A pan pizza with a very thick, soft crust and crunchy base."
Post/Yelp picks: While no Cincinnati-based pizzerias made the cut, Columbus-based Adriatico's, which has a location in University Heights, won the category for the Buckeye State.
My pick: No matter what style it is, I think Adriatico's, with its signature spicy sauce, is among the best pizzas in town.
Tavern-style pizza
"A thin crust cut into squares."
Post/Yelp picks: Only one Ohio pizzeria, Slammers, in Columbus, qualified in the tavern-style category, while there were none selected from Northern Kentucky.
My pick: The tavern-style pies at St. Francis Apizza. They are only served on Mondays and Tuesdays, but these crispy, cracker-crust pies are so popular that Plattner is planning to spin them off into a separate pizzeria called Franky's Thin Style. Other pizzerias I think should be included on this list are Columbus-based Donatos, with several Greater Cincinnati locations, and Dayton-based Marion's, which has a location in Mason.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: What Washington Post's Best Pizza in America list got right and wrong
