Food & Wine names East Austin spot the country's Restaurant of the Year
One of Austin's most lauded new(ish) restaurants received its greatest national acclaim Friday when Food & Wine named Birdie's its Restaurant of the Year. It is the second year the publication has given the honor. The Birdie's spread will appear in the forthcoming "Best New Chef" issue of the magazine, which includes Birdie's East 12th Street neighbor Nixta Taqueria's Edgar Rico.
When chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and husband and business partner Arjav Ezekiel moved to Austin after careers in notable New York City restaurants that included Grammercy Tavern, they thought they might open a fine dining restaurant. But time spent living and working in Austin led them to reimagine their concept. The result was Birdie's, a wine-focused counter-service restaurant serving dishes of the Mediterranean in East Austin.
“We kind of fell in love with the casual way people ate here and interacted with restaurants,” Arjav told the American-Statesman in 2021 ahead of the opening of Birdie's that summer.
More: Veterans of top NYC restaurants to open casual restaurant Birdie's in East Austin
Ezekiel's direct-but-creative and flavorful dishes, like her housemade pastas and the best beef tartare in the city, and Ezekiel's smart and playful wine list led to praise from the American-Statesman (we named it the best new restaurant in the city in 2021), which preceded honors from the New York Times, Esquire, Bon Appetit and an appearance in "Somebody Feed Phil," a show of which I was a part. Now, this honor from Food & Wine.
The publication and its restaurant editor Khushbu Shah praised the small restaurant with the big patio at 2944 E. 12th St. for its food and the way its service model and hours allow them to treat each of its employees equitably.
More: Nixta Taqueria's Edgar Rico earns spot on Food & Wine's list of Best New Chefs in America
“It’s the place you go to at least once a week if you live down the street, and at the same time, it’s the place worth getting on a plane to Austin for. Birdie’s is also the restaurant that the industry needs," Shah writes. "Two years in, Arjav and Tracy have proved that their restaurant model — one that prioritizes boundaries and the wellness of both themselves and their staff — is not just a pipe dream, but fully implementable.”
Reached by text in New York City, where they will appear on CBS' "Saturday Morning," the couple told the American-Statesman they find it remarkable their "little corner" restaurant could receive this singular award.
"When we opened Birdie’s two years ago, we always envisioned it as a hub for the neighborhood and for Austin. For it to be singled out as the Restaurant of the Year is a testament to everyone on our team and their commitment to their craft and Birdie’s," Arjav wrote.
After all of this attention, and given the physical confines of the space, which can lead to some pretty long lines, especially in nice weather, one wonders what the couple might have in store for a follow-up act. Arjav said they are always looking for spaces and have a few ideas, but that they have yet to find the right space to match their style of food and service.
As for meeting the expectations that come with all of this national attention, Malechek-Ezekiel says the new parents just keep doing what they've been doing.
"We will just keep doing what we have done so far. We push ourselves to be the best we can be, taste everything all the time, and maintain a work life balance so we show up every day with a clear head ready to go," Malechek-Ezekiel said.
Birdie's is open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: Food & Wine names East Austin's Birdie's the Restaurant of the Year
