Fashion Legend Piero Piazzi on the Supermodel Era, Changing Aesthetics and the Importance of Diversity on the Runway

He’s been crowned “The King of Models” by The New York Times, but Piero Piazzi, president of the modeling agency Women Management (part of the global giant Elite World Group), has never particularly liked that label.

“It’s an expression that always made me laugh,” he says, before jokingly adding “I don’t believe in monarchy!”

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Marpessa Hennink, Monica Bellucci, Carla Bruni, Eva Riccobono, Maria Carla Boscono and Lea T are just some of the names Piazzi discovered and represented in the 1980s, an era in which now-household names like Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova and Kate Moss (Campbell is currently represented by Piazzi) became global superstars and helped to usher in the age of the supermodel.

THR Roma caught up with Piazzi, 60, at the European Parliament headquarters in Rome, where he was being presented with the Fashion Dresses Peace award for To Get There ETS, the non-profit association for whom he serves as ambassador and which helps to supply aid to orphaned and HIV-positive children in Uganda and South Sudan.

Why do you shun the NYT‘s label of “The King of Models”?

Because I treated the models as women, as human beings… always respecting and protecting them. This has always been a source of pride for me. It was not easy because the world of fashion, especially in the past, was somewhat ambiguous. I wouldn’t say it was dangerous, but it was on the razor’s edge in some ways. I think that if people didn’t focus mainly on financial gains but also considered humankind, everything would have been different and so much easier.

Were there predators in the fashion world who abused models, just like the scandals we’ve seen in the film industry? 

Of course! They burned my car. It was the PR people who were luring models in clubs, making them take drugs and then bartering them as sacrificial offerings to Milan’s upper class playboys. I am someone who has consistently fought against all types of violence, both physical and psychological. I fight against all forms of discrimination.

How did the photographers behave? 

Some photographers faked lingerie castings to attract models. Some of these guys were not even photographers. I fought hard to screen my models from these situations. I modeled for many years myself and whenever they made advances, I reacted very strongly against it. Abuse, violence and rape are extremely serious matters that can have lifelong repercussions on men or women. It must be reported immediately, even at the cost of losing a job.

Has there been any criticism that has hurt you?

I use social media a lot and I recently posted in favor of same-sex parenting, advocating that having children should be possible for everyone [The Italian government run by Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni has banned gay couples from applying]. Some haters called me inhuman because they don’t approve of same-sex couples applying for surrogacy. This is not democracy. In my line of work, since the 1980s, I’ve fought for the presence of black models on the runway. And I was the first to believe in, and represent, the transgender model Lea T.

Rights are rights. Should they not be questioned?

Love has no color, the world is truly a rainbow. However at this historic moment in Italy, and in other parts of the world, some rights are still banned or even denied. They are important rights, the foundation of the world my life revolves around — my motto is “it’s all about love”. You cannot deny the love a parent has for their child, nor the love a child has for their parents, just because of homosexuality.

Staying on the topic of rights, you have been fighting to provide equal professional dignity to all models. What is the current situation?

Marpessa, the first model I took on, didn’t do fashion shows and was limited to doing lingerie catalogs because she had a beautiful body but she had dark circles under her eyes. At the time, American blondes were sought after, some even had freckles. But the dark circles under her eyes and the imperfection of her biracial complexion that was neither fair nor dark, was not tolerated. It took a long time, but I finally made it clear that even dark circles have the appeal of lived experiences, they have meaning. Fabrizio Ferri [one of the most famous fashion photographers] never used her. I went to Gianni Versace, whom I knew, and explained that Marpessa had class and a beauty made of gestures, movements and imperfections. It was much easier with Naomi Campbell — she is perfect, she is beautiful, she is wonderful, but she also has an imposing personality, the personality of an icon.

Have the aesthetic standards changed? 

Many models on today’s runways are diverse: Black, Chinese, genderless, plus-size. This colorful world was once unimaginable. This is important because fashion delivers important messages. Of course, real life is something else — unfortunately there is still so much inequality.

What bearing does the market continue to have on the choices we see reflected in society?

A great deal. To cite an example, China reopened its borders after the pandemic. This year, the request for Asian models for runway shows increased due to a surge in Chinese buyers. I would also like to mention the wonderful example of 65-year-old Elisabetta Dessy, a former athlete and model who has returned to the runway. Fashion should be ageless, because fashion is also represented by buyers of a more mature age. Fashion must be democratic today, more than ever.

You have often stated that you hate perfection?

I have, because I am the least perfect person in this world.

I will show you some names and you can tell me what you have seen that is imperfect in these models you have launched, for example Carla Bruni?

I have a very special love for Carla who is the antithesis of a snob compared to her appearance. Carla doesn’t act snobbish. She is a wonderful person, with an incredible world inside.

Monica Bellucci?

Monica as a model was very imperfect. In fact, when I first saw her I thought she was perfect for movies. If I close my eyes I see an image of Monica in a turtleneck sweater, white coat, white boots. She was buttery and voluptuous at a time when these qualities were not yet sought after. I remember telling her, “You have a beautiful face to be an actress.”

Mariacarla Boscono?

The wide set eyes. This kind of E.T. face, at a time when fashion was dictated by perfection. Mariacarla has a unique gift — which trumps everything and makes you a top model — which is personality.

Eva Riccobono? 

Eva is one of the most amusing women I know, with this little mouth that sometimes grimaced, which at the beginning made her suffer, but also these dreamy watery eyes, a vague gaze. I’m sad she didn’t have a more prominent acting career, she would have made a great actress, Monica Vitti-style.

Some of the models you discovered have changed path, like Monica Bellucci. How do you rate her as an actress?

I have not seen enough of her films to judge her. However, if she has done so many there must be a good reason.

You don’t think she’d be hurt to hear you haven’t seen her films?

Let’s say I saw a few of her films in the beginning and I also visited her on set. She was so beautiful. I love Bond movies and she was wonderful in the role of Lucia Sciarra in Spectre.

Carla Bruni, on the other hand chose to sing. How do you rate her as a singer?

Wonderful. She has her own style, some people say she almost whispers. I like her singing because of her unique style.

Was she someone who sang in the shower or during casting?

No. Carla suffered a lot, but not out of insecurity. She went down the runway worried. Let’s remember — before being models they are young women, many with huge insecurities and uncertainties.

What do you think about Giorgio Armani continuing to hold onto the artistic reins of the empire he created, while others, such as Valentino, decided to abdicate while still alive to the younger generation?

Giorgio Armani is someone I admire, he likes to control everything and have the last word, while managing to do so with great dignity and class.

Valentino wanted to enjoy life with Giancarlo Giammetti. I have enormous respect for both of them. They are very special people who decided to live their dream life of luxury surrounded by beautiful things. Giancarlo is extremely active and fights against all kinds of discrimination, he is someone who even on social media violently attacks political parties that he doesn’t agree with.

Not all designers have the courage to expose themselves on issues that are still discriminatory against the LGBTQI+ world.

Courage for me is being yourself. It’s very difficult to be yourself without a mask. Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli are two people on the front lines, in the first trench to defend the LGBTQI+ cause.

Miuccia Prada, maybe she is much more reserved, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce might not express it in their work, but they are doing wonderful things socially for the cause. I find that each of these brands has their own identity. Some may be more reserved, and choose not to express the issue through their brands.

Is there a designer you would like to thank?

Gianfranco Ferré. I have loved him since my modeling days. Working with him was always pleasant. He was an architect and a very humble person. For me, he was one of the greatest designers in the world. The first Italian to become a designer for a major French fashion house like Dior.

Do the models you have worked with have someone to thank? Is there a designer who also launched them with you? Who believed in your ideas?

There are many. Marpessa should thank Dolce Gabbana, with the first campaign by the wonderful photographer Ferdinando Scianna. Naomi certainly had this support from Azzedine Alaïa. Each of them has their own connection.

In the past, models reached unimaginable heights, now companies prefer to use influencers for their brands. Does Chiara Ferragni or a Kardashian make more than a supermodel today?

It depends on the influencers. I find that Chiara Ferragni is no longer just that. She is an entrepreneur with her own brand and even though I criticized her at the beginning of her career, I now respect all the work she has done. These are business choices for a fashion label that depends on the product they are advertising. For example, Fendi usually chooses influencers as well as models.

To work a lot today, should a model also have a lot of online followers?

It depends on the audience you want to target. It used to be much more important. There was an obsession with the number of followers a model had. Now, much less so. Since then, other phenomena have entered the fashion world. Fashion today is a mix of everything, however, there are icons like Naomi and others, who are still very present.

What was a professional encounter that emotionally touched you?

Lea T. I met her on the beach in Bali with Riccardo Tisci. I followed her transition. She is now a friend of mine who really taught me a lot. At first I was very doubtful whether or not it was right for me to represent a transgender model. I could have made much more money by booking her on trash television shows. Instead, she became a successful model.

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