Exotic Naples elegance: New Fifth Avenue South game-changing restaurant sets November opening
As if Fifth Avenue South couldn’t get any more fun, it will with the newest outpost of Le Colonial.
As a (very minor and junior) member of the PR firm that helped open the original restaurant in 1993 on East 57th Street in Manhattan, my first impression was that of a glamourous movie set from a bygone era.
The space was exotic and seductive, with banana trees and lush potted palms evoking laid-back elegance.
The concept: Fine-dining French-Vietnamese cuisine nestled in a lush setting evoking the romance and soft architecture of Saigon in the 1920s. The restaurant quickly developed a loyal clientele that remained devoted until its 2019 closing.
It was among the first restaurants anywhere to make lounge dining a haute trend with comfortable, luxe furnishings paired with elegant and delicious small-plate options.
But don't just take my word for it.
Georgette Mosbacher's office in New York City was in the building next door and visited on night two. A Naples resident, Mosbacher served as U.S. Ambassador to Poland from 2018‑2021.
"Initially, the lounge seemed like an insider's discreet enclave, but word of mouth transformed it from a best-kept secret spot to a must-go," she said.
Over the years, Le Colonial’s expansion to other cities includes Chicago in 1996, Houston in 2016, Atlanta in 2019, Lake Forest, Illinois, in 2002, and most recently, Delray Beach, which opened in February, 30 minutes south of Palm Beach (and its New York City snowbirds) on Florida’s other coast.
When seeing the notice posted on the new construction well before I was working at the paper, I immediately texted a photo to former JLB Annabelle Tometich, telling her this will be a game‒changer for Fifth Avenue South.
A November opening is planned.
Why is Naples next? For answers, we spoke to Rick Wahlstedt, who owns Le Colonial with partner Joe King.
“We've been in Chicago for close to 25 years. Many of our guests have second homes in Naples.”
“We've been asked to do something in Naples for quite some time. When the opportunity arose on Fifth Avenue, we thought it was a no-brainer since we already have a slightly built-in clientele and Naples is a wonderful place.”
Another factor: During the pandemic, Florida became a year-round destination where business is strong.
Writing the book on Vietnamese cuisine
As the daughter of a French dad and Vietnamese mother, acclaimed chef Nicole Routhier is the brand’s culinary ambassador and was an instrumental part of the original culinary team in New York City. She will be in Naples to open the restaurant.
Routhier grew up in Vietnam. When moving to the States to attend the Culinary Institute of America, she was discovered by legendary New York Times critic, journalist and cookbook author Craig Claiborne who propelled her to food world stardom.
She is considered the utmost authority on Vietnamese cooking and has written several award-winning cookbooks on the topic, including “The Foods of Vietnam”; “Cooking Under Wraps”; “The Best of Nicole Routhier”; and “Nicole Routhier’s Fruit Cookbook.”
Routhier and Wahlstedt reconnected in Houston 27 years later when that restaurant was in the planning stages and have been working together since.
Joining her is Le Colonial’s National Culinary Director, Hassan Obaye, who originally hails from Morocco. His career encompasses 24 years of expertise, including seven with Le Colonial and his instrumental role in the launch of Chef Joël Robuchon’s La Table in Houston.
Shining a spotlight on South Asian coastal cuisine, South Florida-sourced fish will be among the starring ingredients. Obaye will also work closely with local farms procuring produce and vegetables.
Both will be the “engine” for the kitchen in Naples.
“We will have different things on the menu than in Chicago, Houston and Atlanta, tailored to the Gulf Coast and the Naples community,” Wahlstedt said.
“Between Nicole’s original Vietnamese roots and Hassan’s sophisticated Mediterranean flavors and techniques, it’s been a great collaboration without losing the authenticity of the menu. I could not be happier with how the food has been executed in our restaurants.”
“I wanted Le Colonial to be a bit more progressive on the culinary side yet keep its family style, which we are big fans of. Embracing the Vietnamese culinary heritage, known for its skillful fusion of neighboring influences, allows us to highlight the coastal flavors of adjacent nations in our unique menu.”
Hiring a dedicated executive chef exclusive to Naples is in the works.
The look
The restaurant's design is by architect Mark Knauer, the hospitality visionary who recently updated Le Colonial’s Chicago restaurant and created the newer ones in the portfolio. Fifth Avenue habitués may recognize his modern high-end signature style from Del Mar across the avenue.
The task at hand? Evolving the iconic look of a successful 30-year-old concept while maintaining references to the architectural style of the “romantic 1920s.”
The restaurant will boast a covered patio on Fifth Avenue with French doors leading into the spacious dining room. A chic cocktail lounge and adjacent private dining chef’s tasting room will seat 14 guests. Swapping happy hour for “Saigon Social” nibbles and finger food is also on the agenda.
“The nice thing about Le Colonial is that you have different dining experiences; you can sit in the lounge, where we don't take reservations, and have dinner. Or you can sit in a proper dining room. We have clients who only go to the lounge to drink and eat, and we have people who only go to the dining room. The substantial patio is an important piece for any restaurant in Florida.”
“I hope guests feel transported to a different place through the romantic architecture and design. That's what we are always trying to do.”
Dress to impress
In what may likely become Naples' most Instagrammable background, Le Colonial is among a handful of high-end restaurants enforcing a dress code.
Per its website, "We put all our love and effort in creating an unforgettable experience with you in mind. It is for this reason we politely ask that our guests return the favor by joining us sans any of the subsequent athleisure attire."
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Specifically, athletic wear or designer athletic lines of any kind and model; beach flip flops or any beach attire; athletic slides; tank tops for men; cut-offs; sweatpants; exposed undergarments and excessively revealing clothing for indoor and outdoor dining are all off the table. Leave your baseball cap at home.
Otherwise, to paraphrase Seinfeld's soup nazi, no pho for you.
(445 Fifth Ave. S., Naples; 239-372-9700; lecolonial.com)
Diana Biederman reports on restaurants and food for Naples Daily News. Connect with her via dbiederman@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Vietnamese-French restaurant plans November opening on Fifth in Naples
