Been to Emporium Kitchen lately? You'll want to try the new French-inspired menu rapidement
Emporium Kitchen and Wine Market, located inside the contemporary Perry Lane Hotel, offers a gentle nod toward European culinary traditions. The restaurant's newly revamped menu mimics French bistro fare, close enough to rival your friends' last visit to Europe, which they bring up casually and often in conversation.
Sous chef Evan Kern, the mastermind behind the new menu, affirmed that Emporium Kitchen is moving back toward its original concept of an upscale French café, which is evident not just in the reintroduction of "smooth buttery sauces ― it’s more like a demi-glace ― folded in butter,” but also in the warm ambience of the dark woods against bright whites and the Boho-style décor with fresh herbs and plants framing whimsical artworks.
One night, not too long ago, we sampled 11 new-to-the-menu dishes, ranging from appetizers to desserts, all suggested by Kern.
Where to start?
Our appetizer selections were vibrant and light and served as the perfect precursor to the heartier dishes to come.
The Sapelo Island clams were robust, reminiscent of bowl of crawfish enjoyed on the bayou on a tempered winter night. The broth was a heady mix of garlic and Cajun seasonings that embraced the salty escargot butter and shallots. In lieu of bread, the dish is souped-up by a crisp, waffle-cut potato wafers.
The clams were definitely a top contender, second only to the briny-citrusy tuna crudo, presented in a spring palette of pink, yellow and green courtesy of the fish, lemon, and pistachios. Light and balanced, the crudo conveyed an earthiness from the infusion of fresh herbs grown in-house by chef Aidan Kinney.
Up next, the highly anticipated foie gras, described by Kern as a “mixture of fatty, sweet and salty flavors that just work.” The pan-seared foie gras was both buttery and nutty and paired well with the white chocolate and raspberry flourishes that landed as a meet-cute between dessert and appetizer. I highly recommend this dish for a casual night out of apps and cocktails, because it is abundantly shareable.
Last but not least, the onion soup ― tradition at its finest with gruyere cheese and a hearty balanced broth filled with caramelized onions. Familiar in taste and generous in size, the soup is an ideal segue to the burger or even the duck.
The main events
Why eat a burger in a French bistro?
Because buttery beef with healthy notes of onion and au jus is worth every bite. The single-patty burger comes classic style with a cheese round and accompanied by one side of your choice (potato puree, pasta au gratin, green beans, asparagus, mushrooms or glazed carrots).
Next, we tried the generous serving of duck confit, which was beautifully curated Peking-style with an orange gastrique and firm but not overly crispy skin. The dish is accompanied by a tart cabbage that did neither enhanced or detracted from the duck, but the dish could be made more filling when accompanied by an al la carte side.
The lobster pasta bathed in a mustard sauce may have been the most filling option of the entrees and offered plenty of lobster meat among the noodles.
The perfect finish
Executive pastry chef Amber Fitzgerald and her crew are known for embracing food gastronomy for Deep South cuisine. The apple terrine is a gelatinous dairy- and nut-free treat that reminds you of an open campfire. Baked at 350 degrees for more than two hours, the potent layered tart is an layered amber piece of art accompanied by a scoop Leopold’s vegan vanilla ice cream. There are other desserts, but saved room for only this one.
This article originally appeared on Savannah Morning News: Emporium Kitchen & Wine Market turns toward French fare in menu revamp
