Eau Gallie breakfast spot has new owners, same great biscuits | Restaurant Review

Oh, the tales of Oh Biscuit.

It had been altered nearly beyond recognition, they said. What had its founders done, selling the business to people who would play with its menu, stick a large-screen television on its wall and, heaven forfend, change its biscuits? Its eggs weren’t right. The bacon was under-fried. It was inconsistent. Nothing was the same.

So, having reviewed the place after its original owners transformed a crummy little shack on Eau Gallie Boulevard into a no-nonsense but charming breakfast-and-lunch standby, we went back to check. And then we went back again. And again. And again.

And guess what? Its founders did very well indeed: Oh Biscuit still is a pretty darn good and economical little breakfast and lunch spot.

The crowds still come early mornings, and as the weather cools, happily line up to order their food from people who are as energetic and cheerful as ever. It’s tradition. That some of them stay late is innovation.

Because the dire warnings concerned breakfast and lunch, that is what we ordered, and we would have been back for dinner, but it’s early days for that, so we’ll return another time.

The cinnamon roll at Oh Biscuit in Eau Gallie surely ranks among the top rolls anywhere, with its slightly crisp exterior, softly winding not-cake-not bread and its goodly amount of cinnamon.
The cinnamon roll at Oh Biscuit in Eau Gallie surely ranks among the top rolls anywhere, with its slightly crisp exterior, softly winding not-cake-not bread and its goodly amount of cinnamon.

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We started with a cinnamon roll ($4.25), which I hadn’t had before and which surely ranks among the top rolls anywhere, with its slightly crisp exterior, softly winding not-cake-not bread and its goodly amount of cinnamon. As a bonus, the thing was not coated with that godawful, gummy white stuff that suppliers and bakeries formerly known as Danish love to apply to pastries. Oh Biscuit’s icing was a warm, light and savory-sweet mixture that did not kill the flavor of the roll.

I ordered a chicken biscuit ($4.99) on the visit before last, and it was absolutely grand too, with perfectly fried bird and slightly crusted, fluffily light bread. Chicken, biscuit, honey: what more do you need?

The last visit, I ordered scrambled eggs ($9.80) with cheese, sausage, potatoes and a biscuit, naturally. The only issue was that the cheese was omitted, but the rest was outstanding, with eggs neither burned nor runny, a sausage patty which, if it wasn’t put together in-house, certainly tasted like it. The biscuit was grand.

The fried potatoes were the star of the show: crunchy, chip-like slices that could be the basis of a dish of their own, under cheese, meat or sauce. Glorious things, those, and so simple.

The chicken biscuit at Oh Biscuit in Eau Gallie was absolutely grand too, with perfectly fried bird and slightly crusted, fluffily light bread.
The chicken biscuit at Oh Biscuit in Eau Gallie was absolutely grand too, with perfectly fried bird and slightly crusted, fluffily light bread.

Our dining companions had a Western omelet ($9.25) with cheese, which was huge, delicious, and much less expensive than those served at various other restaurants. Again, it had no burned surfaces or watery interior.

Finally, our second companion tested the Southernness of the place — to her, breakfast or lunch means “Southern-style” — with a scoop of chicken salad and a bowl of grits, and both got the Southern Belle Seal of Approval. The chicken salad was made the correct way, with pickle relish, was properly dense and contained finely cut fowl. The grits were thick, gritty and not tampered-with (i.e., no additives). Perfection.

Dessert was a blondie ($4), a big square of brown sugary, white chocolately goodness.

Flaws? Well, the requested cheese was omitted in two of our dishes, though, in one, it was mitigated by the addition of a handful of cheddar and our server was apologetic about it.

And I know that this is Brevard County, Florida, where televisions must project sports in as many locales as possible, but in that tiny dining room, the oversized image of Megan Rapinoe doing what Megan Rapinoe does was at best distracting.

I wanted to stand up and sing “God Bless America.” God bless Oh Biscuit. It has lost nothing.

Oh Biscuit

Three and a half stars

Address: 846 W. Eau Gallie Blvd., Melbourne

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily (subject to change)

Call: 321-242-2777

Online: facebook.com/OhBiscuit

Internet: Ask for password

Surcharge: None

Other: Indoor and patio dining, take-out.

About our reviews

Restaurants are rated on a five-star system by FLORIDA TODAY’s reviewer. The reviews are the opinion of the reviewer and take into account quality of the restaurant’s food, ambiance and service. Ratings reflect the quality of what a diner can reasonably expect to find. To receive a rating of less than three stars, a restaurant must be tried twice and prove unimpressive on each visit. Each reviewer visit is unannounced and paid for by FLORIDA TODAY.

Five stars: Excellent. A rare establishment to which you’d be proud to take the most discerning diner.

Four stars: Very good. Worth going out of your way for. Food, atmosphere and service are routinely top notch.

Three stars: Good. A reasonably good place with food and service that satisfy.

Two stars: Fair. While there’s nothing special about this establishment, it will do in a pinch.

One star: Not recommended. Don’t bother.

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This article originally appeared on Florida Today: Oh Biscuit in Eau Gallie is still good, even with new owners