Eat Athens: Indian eatery went from downtown lunch staple to eastside dining destination

Taste of India's Chicken Kashmiri with chicken breast simmered in a delicate sauce and finished with tropical dry fruits and nuts.
Taste of India's Chicken Kashmiri with chicken breast simmered in a delicate sauce and finished with tropical dry fruits and nuts.

There is great Indian food in Athens, but you're not going to find it downtown. As with most of the finest international cuisine in the city, you'll need to make a trip over to the eastside to get some, but you'll be rewarded with a culinary treasure trove where Taste of India is the crown jewel.

Located in the Ansonborough shops at 1040 Gaines School Rd. with such distinguished neighbors as Siri Thai and Frank & Son's Steakhouse, Taste of India is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday, for dinner from 4 -9 p.m. Monday through Thursday and from 4-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

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This photo from Thursday, Oct. 19, 2023 shows the store front of Taste of India in Athens, Ga. Originally opened in 2005, the restaurant moved from downtown to the city's east side in 2018.
This photo from Thursday, Oct. 19, 2023 shows the store front of Taste of India in Athens, Ga. Originally opened in 2005, the restaurant moved from downtown to the city's east side in 2018.

Believe it or not, when Taste of India opened at 131 E. Broad St. in 2005, it faced competition from another downtown Athens Indian spot called Bombay Café. Though the latter eventually closed, Taste of India remained a local favorite in large part due to its now-legendary lunch buffet. When the building was sold to Target in 2018, restaurant owners Ashok Kumar and Veena Chhabra had no choice but to relocate.

The move to the eastside put Taste of India in the suite 119 space that originally housed Mirko Pasta when Ansonborough first opened, and carrying the downtown lunch buffet over to the new location was not possible due to the business's smaller size. But it did put Taste of India within walking distance of other international restaurants like Mannaweenta and Cali-N-Tito's, further defining the area as a hub for world cuisine.

Taste of India's Butter Chicken cooked in a tomato sauce finished with clarified butter.
Taste of India's Butter Chicken cooked in a tomato sauce finished with clarified butter.

From the vegetable pakora (fritters) that come with every entree to the variety of base sauces that customers know and love from the buffet days, Taste of India's menu and flavors carried over successfully to the eastside spot. When the Banner-Herald visited for lunch, we took advantage of the two-step entree that involves choosing tofu, veggies, paneer (cheese) or meat over basmati rice and selecting a sauce from curry, korma, mango, saag or tikka masala options.

One distinct advantage Taste of India guests have over the old buffet is being able to choose the spice level of their dish. Though the buffet was tasty, the food was cooked for conservative palates. The $13 chicken tikka masala we ordered was offered at levels 1 to 5, or mild to sweat-inducing, and our level 2 had just the right amount of heat. Combined with naan (flat bread) and an ultra smooth $5 mango lassi drink, we could've gone up to a three without sacrificing flavor or fire.

Vegetable samosa appetizers with a mango lassi drink at Taste of India restaurant in Athens, Ga. on Thursday, Oct. 19, 2023.
Vegetable samosa appetizers with a mango lassi drink at Taste of India restaurant in Athens, Ga. on Thursday, Oct. 19, 2023.

This article originally appeared on Athens Banner-Herald: Eat Athens: Taste of India remains a jewel in the local culinary crown