Dunsmoor, a history-minded, hearth-fired restaurant, opens in Glassell Park this week

·4 min read
Pulling from regional and early American historical documents and cookbooks for inspiration, Dunsmoor focuses on live-fire cooking, preserved foods and other centuries-old cooking techniques.
Pulling from regional and early American historical documents and cookbooks for inspiration, Dunsmoor focuses on live-fire cooking, preserved foods and other centuries-old cooking techniques. Here, chef Dunsmoor feeds the restaurant's hearth oven. (Brigitte Neman/Dunsmoor)

Dunsmoor

Brian Dunsmoor spent years exploring early American cooking as the opening chef of Hatchet Hall, consulting regional and historical accounts and cookbooks to steer his menus as well as his techniques. On June 29, he is set to open Dunsmoor, a Glassell Park restaurant that will utilize hearth cooking, a larder, a wood oven, a hand-cranked grain mill and other devices and methods to create the likes of Carolina-style smoked-pork rillettes, grated Cherokee tomato soup with apple vinegar, lamb sirloin with ramp relish and Pennsylvania Dutch-style chicken slippery dumplings. A conjoined bar will mirror the restaurant’s beverage program, which focuses on a regular rotation of small-production global wines and beers. Dunsmoor will operate from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday with dinner service to start, and weekend brunch to follow. A chef’s tasting menu at the eight-seat counter is also expected to launch at a later date.

3501 Eagle Rock Blvd., Los Angeles, dunsmoor.la

An overhead photo of hearth-grilled oysters from new restaurant Dunsmoor.
Hearth-grilled oysters from new restaurant Dunsmoor. (Brigitte Neman/Dunsmoor)

Mother Tongue

Prolific restaurateur Michael Mina (Bourbon Steak, the Bungalow Kitchen) has opened his newest Los Angeles restaurant: Mother Tongue, in Hollywood, is located on the rooftop of the members-only Heimat fitness club, though the restaurant itself is open to the public. Fernando Darin (formerly of Patina Group) heads the kitchen, which takes health-minded inspiration from Heimat to serve global cuisine that suits a range of diets. Dishes are noted for being keto-friendly, anti-inflammatory, plant-based or geared toward “mind/cognition”; they include options such as steak tartare with turmeric; vegetable lumpiang with caramelized coconut sauce; spelt flatbread with whipped avocado; duck breast with cherries, mushrooms and hazelnut dukkah; and gajar ka halwa, or carrot pudding, with pistachios and cardamom cream. Wines and globally inspired cocktails also are available. Mother Tongue is open from 5 to 10 p.m. daily.

960 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 319-7850, hellomothertongue.com

Pine & Crane downtown

Vivian Ku’s celebrated Taiwanese restaurant in Silver Lake now has a second location, complete with menu favorites from Ku’s 2021 Taiwanese-breakfast pop-up, Today Starts Here. Downtown’s Pine & Crane, located at the base of the Aven apartment building, reprises breakfast items such as fan tuan, savory soy milk, daikon rice cakes, pan-fried chive-and-egg pockets and thousand-layer egg-and-cheese pancakes until 11 a.m., then transitions to an afternoon menu of noodles, beef rolls, mapo tofu, three-cup chicken and more — including unique-to-downtown dishes of Taiwanese popcorn chicken and crispy rice cakes with mushroom. There's also a small pantry selection of Taiwanese chips, black vinegar, house chili oil and home goods. Pine & Crane downtown is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.

1120 S. Grand Ave., Unit 101, Los Angeles, (213) 536-5292, pineandcrane.com

An overhead photo of fan tuan, savory soy milk, and chive-and-egg pockets atop a green table.
Vivian Ku's downtown outpost of Pine & Crane reprises some of her biggest hits from last year's Taiwanese breakfast pop-up, Today Starts Here. Clockwise, from top: fan tuan, savory soy milk, and chive-and-egg pockets. (Stephanie Breijo/Los Angeles Times)

HomeState Sherman Oaks

L.A.’s locally owned chain devoted to Tex-Mex fare opens its first Valley location on July 3. HomeState’s long-awaited Sherman Oaks outpost takes over a former auto garage with breakfast tacos, loaded queso, brisket sandwiches, migas, margaritas and the brand’s signature freshly made tortillas, with indoor seating available. HomeState Sherman Oaks will open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. An Oceanside location of the restaurant is in the works.

13424 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, myhomestate.com

Broad Street Grand Central Market

Malibu’s rapidly growing seafood destination, Broad Street Oyster Co., is now open within Grand Central Market for lobster rolls, fried oysters, soft-shell crab, seafood towers, wine and 10 varieties of draft beer. A grand opening celebration is scheduled for the holiday weekend. The latest locale fills the former Prawn stall, which offers limited counter seating and is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. The seafood restaurant also recently expanded the footprint of its new Santa Barbara space.

317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, broadstreetoyster.com

This story originally appeared in Los Angeles Times.