The Coolest Stuff We Saw at Paris Fashion Week

London luxury brand Dunhill made an impressive return to the runway yesterday for designer Mark Weston’s debut. It was clear instantly that a bold new mood is in play for the 125-year-old brand. Where Dunhill was once about gentlemanly style with a modern international flavor, Weston has gone in for some bold genetic engineering with the storied brand’s DNA that resulted in a distinctly younger mood. Tailoring here - as in a few other places this season - pointed to a longer yet comfortable cut derived from the aesthetics of Savile Row, rendered lightweight and fluid. But it was the leather that was key in defining the new mood in both clothing and accessories, with vertical quilting for both bombers and totes looking fresh and sporty. Also, how clothing was combined here was as important as its design. Leather jeans - a recurring note - gave a luxurious but rock-and-roll edge to outwardly classic overcoats and knits. Weston’s efforts - clothing that is familiar in its essential elements but thoroughly contemporary in its styling - pitched Dunhill back into menswear’s limelight with a very new sense of skill and confidence. - Nick Sullivan