Carlos Miguel: The story of a tasty pop-up and Memphis chefs helping each other

For many chefs, a pop-up is a way to get a restaurant business started. It’s a low-risk trial ground to experiment with new concepts and menu items, while building a clientele.

The Carlos Miguel Pop-Up is just that — a way for Memphis chef Charles Willoughby to build a business to the point that will enable him to one day open his own restaurant.

What is interesting about Willoughby’s situation is that he is not doing it alone.

Chefs and restaurateurs who have worked with him over the years are offering up their kitchens and restaurants to him. It’s a story that happens often in our city — Memphians helping lift each other up.

Both DJ Naylor, the owner of Celtic Crossing Irish Pub, and Jimmy Gentry, the owner of The Lobbyist, have opened up their kitchens and restaurants to Willoughby.

“Charles and I have a fairly long history of friendship, comradery and work,” said Naylor, adding Willoughby had once worked for him at Celtic Crossing. “We wish for him to be successful and where I can help, I do. Plus, his food speaks for itself.”

Willoughby also has worked for Gentry at his catering company, Paradox Cuisine. “Everyone needs some help,” Gentry said. “I may not be able to give someone money, but I can give them space. We know how hard it is to start a business. We started Paradox with a $10,000 credit card we had to pay off every week.”

Both restaurateurs said they have seen first-hand Willoughby’s talent and want to help him get his fledging business off the ground.

What’s on the menu at Carlos Miguel

The inspiration behind Carlos Miguel was Willoughby’s daughter.

“I have a daughter from Mexico,” Willoughby said. “While I am from Tennessee, my passion has always been geared toward Mexican food. I always knew my menu would be Mexican-inspired because of her.”

The name Carlos Miguel translates to Charles Mykal — Willoughby’s name.

Willoughby's first career as a competitive golfer and club level golf pro indirectly led him to a career as a chef.

“I grew up with a golf club in my hand,” Willoughby said. “But I became burnt out on it. My other passion was food and beverage. I grew up in a small town and moving outside that exposed me to the world of food, and I wanted to know how to create what I was experiencing.”

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At his pop-ups, Willoughby serves a small, but well-curated, menu of dishes using Southern ingredients with a Mexican twist.

“I fuse a little of where we are here in the South into every dish,” he explained.

His Fried Catfish Tacos are a specialty that often appear on the menu. For the dredge, he uses cornmeal that is well-seasoned using a “secret” blend of spices that a friend shared with him years ago.

“I cut the filets into smaller pieces because they fry up better,” he said, as he talked about his attention to detail. “This way they are crispy on the outside and still a moist piece of fish.”

The finishing details are creative spins on traditional condiments. First is a remoulade where he switches the traditional Southern ingredients of lemon, parsley and capers for lime, cilantro and finely diced green onions. For the “pico,” he uses the “trinity” in Creole cooking — celery, onion and peppers. While there are no tomatoes like in a Mexican pico, he uses poblano peppers and cilantro to tie the two styles together.

The Carlos Miguel burger is the top seller at each pop-up.

“Don’t tell Reny — that’s our chef,” Naylor said. “But this is the best burger I have ever eaten.”

Willoughby serves a “smash burger”-style sandwich that he describes as a "triple double." This burger has two patties, two layers of bacon and double the American cheese. “It’s two of three things,” he explained.

Roasted and charred poblano peppers and a homemade chipotle ranch give the burger a delicious smokiness in each bite.

Also on the menu are a “Sonoran” bacon-wrapped hot dog loaded with garnishes like black beans, blistered chiles, salsa verde and a lime mayo and Yucatan Marinated Pork Tacos with a hint of sour orange. There is even a dish for vegetarians — Veggie Enchiladas stuffed with seasonal ingredients such as corn and zucchini.

Willoughby said he also does a brunch-inspired egg dish at every daytime pop-up.

A 'kitchen takeover'

Willoughby describes his pop-ups as a “kitchen takeover.” The restaurants he serves at are usually closed at the times he is cooking his menu.

“The Lobbyist is normally closed on Sundays during the day,” he said. “So don’t expect any Lobbyist menu items. We sometimes have people stop in and are confused at why the restaurant looks open, but they can’t get the regular menu.”

Gentry said he provides the service and the bar for each of the Carlos Miguel pop-ups. “This way our guests still have a Lobbyist experience, even though it's not our menu,” he said.

In addition to his pop-ups, Willoughby also offers catering.

“I have used him several times to cater events,” Naylor said. “And everything is always superlative.”

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The next pop-up will 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Aug. 27 at The Lobbyist, 272 S. Main St.

Follow Carlos Miguel on Instagram (@CarlosMiguelMem) and on Facebook for updates on future pop-ups.

Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer. 

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This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Carlos Miguel in Memphis: What to expect at Mexican-inspired pop-up