Best new restaurants 2023. Who made our critic's favorite 5 in Naples, Marco Island? — JLB
Who sends free bread back … twice?
JLB did just that during a July lunch at an Italian café that opened in April. Life's too short to eat par-baked bread.
That one is decidedly not on le list of Collier County’s best new restaurants for 2023.
More than 40 opened their doors this year, mixing the good, the gimmicky, the usual (fried seafood, Americanized Italian) and the disappointing (mostly pizza and fusion concepts.)
Who earned spots on this year’s best and why?
Drawing from this year’s restaurant reviews and profiles, I winnow the top-five tally to only include those that opened after Jan. 1. A few that recently opened warrant additional visits before weighing in.
My top three priorities are great food, the price-to-value ratio plus the fun quotient. Consistency is key; unlike a theatre's playbill, I've yet to see a restaurant posting its executive chef's day off.
Would I revisit on my own dime and time? Would I send good friends there? Yes and yes to those noted below.
Bicyclette Cookshop
819 Vanderbilt Beach Road; 239-514-3333; bicyclettecookshop.com
What happens when a wunderkind chef teams with a McDonald’s chieftain on a new restaurant?
Executive chef Kayla Pfeiffer now has a kitchen to call her own following the same titles at other restaurateurs’ concepts, including The French, Bar Tulia at Mercato, and a short stint at PJK Neighborhood Chinese.
She is 27. Let that sink in for a moment.
Business partner Louis Mele served as president of McDonald’s in Canada and Italy before moving to Southwest Florida. He also owns Naples Cyclery next door and turned what was formerly his adjacent café Fit and Fuel over to Pfeiffer, giving her carte blanche to reimagine it from menu to décor.
Pfeiffer seems to have a ball with next-level takes on elevated comfort food where every intentional ingredient is well-thought-out to the point of obsession. Cocktails, too, including one dubbed "Flaquita's Favorite," a mezcal-meets-tequila nod to her "skinny girl" nickname.
She’s in on the fun, presenting playfully delish riffs on iconic fast food classics; Big Mac and Filet-O-Fish interpretations are significantly more substantial and priced not much more than what the famous golden arches charges. Caviar service is clever and a whopping $22. It’s also nice to see a salad in Naples that isn’t afraid of radicchio. Desserts are created in-house and worth every single calorie.
Hours: Daily from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Le Colonial
457 Fifth Ave. S., Naples; 239-372-9700; naples.leconial.com
When Veranda, one of the grand dames of shelter magazines, anoints your Atlanta restaurant among the world’s 20 most beautiful in 2022, what to do for an encore?
When it’s Le Colonial, you up the ante by opening on one of Naples' most iconic destinations. America’s first restaurant to make lounge dining the "in-thing" at its first location in New York City 30 years ago, exotically sexy, high-style tactile touches make this Southwest Florida’s hautest see-and-be-seen scene. The same holds true no matter where you sit; throughout the space, not a square inch is ignored including fabric-covered ceiling tiles that absorb noise.
As for the food? It's been over a decade between my visits since moving to Florida, but it's still fabulous with dishes designed to be shared. Classics like “Shaking Beef” and market-priced red snapper for two ($95 the night we visited) ‒ both on the menu since 1993 ‒ are executed magnificently by Executive Chef Moosah Reaume.
Le Colonial looks like money; a tidy sum to experience it properly is helpful. Reservations too, because it will be 2024’s toughest to score.
Hours: 4 to 9:30 p.m. for dinner daily; lunch service is planned starting in January.
Old Vines (two locations)
9105 Strada Place at Mercato Shops; 239-591-5351 and 2795 Davis Blvd.; 239-417-4466; oldvines.net
It takes a lot of effort to open a restaurant in Collier County. But two in the same year? Leave it to busy Brooke Kravetz, a chef in her own right, and now managing partner at both, letting others work their kitchen magic.
What do they have in common? Darkcore décor and Executive Pastry Chef Corie Greenberg’s exquisite desserts.
I enjoyed both, albeit for different reasons.
Old Vines Naples' a la carte offerings are created by executive chef Daniel Swofford, Kravetz’s replacement at The Cave. An open kitchen, seemingly 20 times the size of Swofford’s most recent digs, allows him the freedom to do things differently.
At dinner, his expansive menu is classified into eight sections with suggested wine pairings for each dish, though several overlap categories. As someone who rarely orders chicken at a restaurant, the coq au vin-inspired bird’s leg with delectable roasted mushrooms and potato puree is rockstar good. Uptown also offers a full bar with fun cocktails in a stunning lounge. And they serve late lunch at 1 p.m.
Hours: Daily from 1 p.m. to midnight.
In East Naples, the 30-seater Old Vines Supper Club serves up a multi-course prix-fixe concept, rotating family-style luxe comfort food appealing to adults, tasting menus and vintner dinners. Here, the top toque is Travis Roanhorse, who keeps it interesting; it’s unlikely to experience the same meal twice, adding to the fun.
While the term “hidden gem” is often misused, it’s applicable here given its easy-to-miss strip mall location. Upon stepping inside, sophistication in a cozy setting is the vibe. “Club” in the name is somewhat of a misnomer: It’s quiet, and there is no membership fee. Reservations a must.
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m.
Ori’s Bakery & Café
945 N. Collier Blvd.; 239-450-4062; oriscafe.com
Opened in July, Ori’s is a welcome breakfast and lunch addition to Marco Island, as there’s nothing quite like it. Think of it as first-class, from-scratch, finger-friendly food in a clean, casual counter-service setting: it’s among the few restaurants where wearing swimsuits and coverups will not raise eyebrows.
Italian beef with all the trimmings from a Portillo’s alum? Yes and it’s really good. Oriana Reed is the café’s namesake, and she also serves as executive pastry chef. Originally from Buenos Aires, her heritage is Italian. Both destinations’ cuisines are represented on the extensive menu. One pastry showcase is exclusively empanadas. Baked from scratch throughout the day, they’re priced $5.25 per with a selection of creative fillings, including crab and grouper for an extra $2. Gluten-free and vegan options are available. Every subsequent visit is more delicious than the previous one. Ori’s also scored nods on our 2023 “Best Bites” and “Best Sandwiches” lists.
Hours: Tues. through Sat. from 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Sunday 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Closed Monday.
Rebecca's
2955 Bayshore Drive, Naples; 239.799.1801; rebeccasnaples.com
Where do I end up when I can’t decide where to go? Usually Rebecca’s. It’s swell as an only stop, but I also head to this timeless temple of Balinese minimalist chic décor for post-event nibbles and nightcaps when hoping to end my evening on a high note. Rebecca’s culinary director, Darren Veilleux, recently expanded lunch and dinner to include handhelds, salads, and serious entrees. But I like keeping it simple and shareable: caviar service with all the accoutrements from $28 and up, pizzas (white with caramelized onion and leeks is a favorite) and a decadent chocolate trifle. And while the spot is known for its expansive wine list, potent, pretty cocktails are my pick.
Hours: Sunday, Tuesday to Thursday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Monday.
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. Follow us on Facebook via BiteIntoSWFL. To connect: diana.biederman@naplesnews.com.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Best new Naples, Marco Island restaurants 2023: Who made critic's cut?
