Best Bites: 5 of the best dishes our dining critic ate in Milwaukee in October

In her Best Bites series, dining critic Rachel Bernhard rounds up some of the most delicious dishes she ate around Milwaukee in recent weeks. From food-truck finds to fine-dining dishes, these are some of her favorite things that crossed her plate each month.

If it weren't for my mini culinary journal below, I would've sworn October never happened. I feel like I blinked in September and my eyes sprung open to November. It's always the best months that fly by, right?

But October did happen, of course, and I experienced it by embracing warm fall flavors in a quaint little cafe, trying a new-to-me dish at a decidedly not-new-to-me neighborhood favorite, wholly appreciating the creativity our city's chefs always surprise me with, and more. These are a few of the dishes that reminded me October is one of my favorite dining months of the year.

The Vermonter from Seven Swans Creperie

I headed to 808 E. Chambers St. to try Seven Swans’ eerily adorable Harry Potter-themed Butterbeer Crepe, and while it was a treat for my sweet tooth, I knew I’d need something with a little more sustenance to get me through the day.

Enter the Vermonter. A delicate crepe folds around hunks of rosemary-infused sausage, cozy-spiced caramelized apples and melty sharp white cheddar. It’s like a blend of apple pie topped with a slice of cheese and a little savory sausage on the side for good measure. The crepe is presented simply and beautifully, topped with a sprig of rosemary and crisp, fresh apple slices. So picturesque.

I think it’s the dish that finally coaxed me into fully embracing fall, as I tucked into it while peering out the charming cafe's dining-room window.

Seven Swans’ owner Kate Bryan told me it was her favorite on the menu, too.

“It’s near and dear to my heart," she said. “Having parents from Vermont, that sharp cheddar and tart apple combo is so nostalgic and unique.”

I wholeheartedly agree.

Bagel Levantine from Hen's Deli

Hen’s Deli has filled a Boo-Boo's-shaped hole in my heart. I sorely miss the former sandwich shop that closed last year along with its sister shop, Soup Bros. But Hen’s, which opened around the corner at 209 W. Florida St. (the former site of Soup Bros.) late last year makes some pretty incredible sandwiches of their own, along with fresh-made bagels. Though I’ve tried a few since they opened last December, I grabbed their Bagel Levantine sandwich for the first time on a quick lunch run last month.

Baba ghanoush and labneh (a soft cheese made from strained yogurt) are spread over the soft and springy house-made curry bagel, then pink pickled onions and herby tabbouleh are piled inside. Everything on the sandwich is made in-house, the fresh herbs of the tabbouleh brightening every bite, but it’s that sunny-yellow curry bagel that ties it all together.

Sure, it’s a little messy, the innards spilling out onto the deli paper it’s wrapped in as you eat, but Hen’s tucks a wooden spork into the to-go bag so you can scoop up every delicious morsel.

Smitty Wings from Vanguard

I’m no stranger to Bay View’s beloved sausage emporium, Vanguard, 2659 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., but I hadn't tried their Smitty Wings until last month. Only available on Mondays, they’re unlike any Buffalo wing I’ve had. Juicy and meaty, crisp but not battered, the dry-spiced wings aren’t spicy but instead get their heat from a blend of (just guessing) cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger. They’re served with a deep brown, unctuous sauce made with even more of those warm spices and a heck of a lot of butter. If you don’t love heat, you’ll love these wings. If you do love heat, you won't miss it once you bite into these bad boys.

The wings are a nod to the style served at a number of bars in South Buffalo, New York. Vanguard co-owner Jim McCann is a Buffalo native and pays homage to his hometown with this curiously comforting Monday-night special. If you can’t make it there on Monday, try the South Buffalo Poutine on the restaurant’s “Tubeless” menu. It features the same distinctive sauce slathered on chicken bits or tofu, with red hot gravy, blue cheese dressing and house pickled celery.

Duck dumplings from The Original

I was on the quest for cozy one chilly fall Friday and found it in a booth at The Original, 2498 N. Bartlett. It started early, with this small plate appetizer that surprised me with its intense combination of flavors.

Rich, shredded roast duck fills light, wonton-wrapped dumplings steamed until they’re soft and tender. The dumplings are delicious on their own, but seasoned simply to let the sauce they’re served in do the talking. The sauce is thin but packs a big punch with a spicy chili oil and savory miso broth for just the right level of salty goodness.

I know (and appreciate) that The Original changes their menu monthly, but my fingers are crossed these delightful dumplings show up in some form or another in the months ahead.

GK burger special (10.23) from Goodkind

I’m sorry to tempt you with this one, since it was a one-night-only special from the crafty folks at Goodkind, 2457 S. Wentworth Ave., who host a new burger-night special every Tuesday. But it was so tasty and so clever I can’t help but note it here.

I’ve had plenty of Asian-inspired burgers in the past, but this one stands out. It's a Thai-Lao-inspired creation made with dry-aged beef, pork laab, spicy Thai chiles, peanut sauce, red leaf lettuce, fried shallots, fish sauce, toasted rice powder, lime and chili powder. If you’re thinking, that’s a lot of stuff … it is! But all that stuff plays so well together, the heat of the chiles tampered just enough by the fresh herbs in the laab. There’s crunch from the shallots and a little zip from the lime. And that peanut sauce, which is often overpowering, was the just-sweet-enough thread that tied it all together. A seriously fun burger.

While you may not see it on the menu again soon, Goodkind always manages to come up with something spectacular for their Burger Night, so take a chance any Tuesday and I’m confident you’ll find more bliss on a bun just as I did.

Rachel Bernhard joined the Journal Sentinel as dining critic in June 2023. She’s been busy exploring the Milwaukee-area food scene to share her favorite finds with readers along the way. Like all Journal Sentinel reporters, she buys all meals, accepts no gifts and is independent of all establishments she covers.

What should she cover next? Contact her at rseis@gannett.com. Follow her on Twitter at @rachelbernhard or on Instagram at @rach.eats.mke. 

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: 5 of the best dishes our dining critic ate in Milwaukee in October